My methods all result in the lid being destroyed. You might find that soaking it in laquer thinner will soften the paint enough that it comes lose (I haven't tried this). Usually, I crimp mine with pliers, just enough to deform the lid, then it will usually open. Of course, the lid is ruined. I keep a few mixing bottles/lids handy, so then I transfer the paint to a new bottle and chuck the messed up bottle/lid.
Here are some tips I got from one of the MR Dream Plan Build DVDs:
Never shake the paint; that's how the paint gets on the lid. Open it and stir it instead. Before closing the bottle wipe the bottle threads and lid with a clean thinner soaked rag. Then put the lid on. I've been following this advice and it has reduced my paint frustration a lot.
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose.
As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint.
When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
FriendlyEspee wrote:Use caution with the channel lock technique. I once got a little enthusiastic with that technique and the bottle cracked and crushed. I ended up with a Grimy Black hand full of glass chunks and solvent paint, and a mess on the floor.
Did the same thing with a bottle of silver myself! Running hot water on it for a while helps.Then CAREFULLY use some channel locks.
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
I break the bottle, and paint fast.... OK I use the Micro Mark jar opener too, it works about as well as anything.
Tilden
jwar wrote:I read here if one take's a piece of saran (plastic wrap) and places it over the bottle, then tighten the cap works. Store it upright where it wont get shook around, works pretty good. I think I would test the paint on the wrap first, Just a thought...John
I never tried Saran wrap, it propably is too thin. I use the leftover bags from all the detail parts. And boy do I have plenty of them. The plastic does work well, have been storing Floequil and Scalecoat this way for years. Even some of the half filled bottles will last years w/o geling or skimming.
Got the idea from my brother (auto body) that seals gallons of paint by running electrical tape stretched around the lid to act as a gasket. Of coarse they all do have shortened shelf life once opened, but extends it considerably.
Another tip that works well for me, TIGHTEN the lid.
The paint forms a bond between glass and lid, so to move the lid to unscrew it, you have to break the bond.
Mechanically, when you twist the lid and it's stuck, you compress and slightly smear the bonding paint inside the lid, but do not crack the bond loose.
At this point, a little reverse pressure, tightening the lid instead of loosening it, not enough to actually move the lid, just enought to torque it a bit, will often crack the lid loose for an easy open from there.
selector wrote:Invert the bottle and dip just the lid into boiling hot water. Careful...you only need to keep it in there for about three seconds. Invert the bottle and use vice grips that have been previously adjusted to size to "just" grip the top snugly enough that the lock engages. This way, instead of hurrying and trying to grip the lid hard enough to get it off, you won't overdo it and crush the glass.
This idea seems brilliant! I almost wish I had a stuck lid so I could try it,
I'm not sure if this method would work with solvent paint. I usually use acrylics. When the lids get stuck I tap on the top and sides of the lid with the handle of a kitchen knife. It doesn't really matter what you use, it just needs to be hard and heavy enough. The tapping usually breeaks the seal formed by the dried paint making the lid easy to open. You end up with a slightly dented lid but it is still useable.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Another strategy is once you have the bottle open do not close it.......
ever.
And paint fast....
Hi!
I have wrestled with this problem for years and years. I've done the nutcracker, the pliers, and yes even channel locks. Most of the time they worked, but I've broken a couple bottles and had no success a few times too.
About three years ago a bought a small pair of Sears Craftsman RoboGrip "pliers". The thing is, I got the one with the curved jaws, which allows a larger surface contact area on the bottle top. It has successfully worked EVERY time for me since purchased.
As an aside, last week I had a small square shaped bottle of testors paint that was totally stuck. I ended up using a crescent wrench on the bottle and the robogrips on the top. I got the thing opened, but really don't recommend that approach.
I guess the best thing to do is to wipe of the threads on the bottle and inside of the cap before you close them - but who will do that every time????
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I switched a few years ago to the acrylics you can get at Michaels and craft stores. There are about a million colors and you can match just about anything. They are usually under $2, on sale for under $1 often, and come with a plastic bottle and cap with a flip top. Easy to mix, you can get any color you want if you experiment a little. Once they are dry they are on. I haven't had one chip or need touch ups since I started. I have never had another stuck lid, that is for sure. They also never seem to dry out.
bogp40 wrote: I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose. As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint. When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.
Micro-Mark also sells a nice paint stirrer that runs on AA batteries. I bought one and I love it. Just remember to let it stop before removing it from the paint.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
mobilman44 wrote:I guess the best thing to do is to wipe of the threads on the bottle and inside of the cap before you close them - but who will do that every time????
Medina1128 wrote: bogp40 wrote: I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose. As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint. When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.Micro-Mark also sells a nice paint stirrer that runs on AA batteries. I bought one and I love it. Just remember to let it stop before removing it from the paint.
did you learn from experience?
I use heavy leather welding gloves to hold the bottle, and a pair of curved jaw Channelock pliers, set wide enough to grip the lid, but not apply too much pressure on the bottle. No cuts to the hand, but I do have a bright blue left hand glove now.
Rotor
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...