shelf layout attachments

[cuyama]

Foam board is not available in my area (San Jose, CA).

There are plenty of alternatives to foam board, but if you are willing to drive a bit, it's not hard to find. Clients and friends have had good luck at:

Pacific Supply
1675 Mission Rd
S San Francisco, CA 94080
[phone]

Pacific Supply
1735 24th St.
Oakland
[phone]

Last time I called, the So. SF location had some sizes in stock and was willing to order others. Be sure to call first before driving if you're interested.

Byron
Model RR Blog

[bogp40]

If the foam is 2" thick to the concrete, fasten with a min of 3 1/2" Tapcons. The appropriate sized bit is needed in a rotohammer for a securly tap into the concrete. Masonry bits in a standard drill will walk when hitting a stone, and the tapcon willnot hold. You may want to use a 1x2 behind the track to spread the force against the foam. Just adjust the length of the fastener to have a bare minimum of 1 1/4" hold into the concrete.

[Weighmaster]

Bob,

    I used foam forms in a 1991 addition, 2" inside and out, and 8" concrete in the middle.  GREAT for comfort.  Molly bolts are the best way, I think, but you would need at least 6" bolts if you have 2" foam.  You also could slice out the foam where you need to attach shelving (before covering the forms, and yes, code will require drywall or some other fire-rated material over the foam).  Bolt wood blocking the thickness of the foam directly to the concrete, document exactly where the blocking is installed, and then rock the walls.  That will give you structurally sound attachment points.  If you're into overkill as I am, you can also use construction adhesive to further secure the blocking to the concrete, in addition to the bolts.    Gary

[FriendlyEspee]

Chuck,

Can you briefly describe the benchwork you're using on the shelf brackets? I also have double-prong brackets and standards installed, but have not yet decided whether to reuse some old open-grid sections of a prior layout, or build new L-girder benchwork. Foam board is not available in my area (San Jose, CA).

I can definitely endorse the two-prong shelf bracket approach. I'm building a shelf layout on two walls of a finished garage in a townhouse complex. The garage is lightly used, so it stays clean. With fascia installed, track lighting on the finished ceiling, the layout appears to "float" from the walls, has a very neat look, and the shelving underneath is great for various supplies and extra cars. I added an epoxy coating plus rubber gel mats on the floor for more comfort.

Chris 

[Lee 1234]

You might want to think about using floor to ceiling "legs" attached to the ceiling joists. It expands the amount of ways you can attach shelves.

[reklein]

Can you go thru the foam and directly into the concrete? If so there are screws available that can be driven into concrete using a drill driver.

[orphiecat]

You might be wise to check the building codes in your area before going too far with your shelving. It is my understanding that such styrofoam blocks must be covered by some type of fire-resistant material, such as drywall.  The fasteners you mention are a type of hollow  wall fasteners. As the name implies, they are used to fasten items to a hollow wall such as the stud walls normally used in house construction. Since you don't really have a hollow wall I'm not sure that the use of those fasteners would work. I'm sure the contractor who built your house would have some good suggestions for fastening your shelving. Let us know how you make out!  Art.

[tomikawaTT]

The gadget you have described is known as a, "Molly," readily available in a multitude of sizes at your hardware or home improvement store of choice.  It WILL anchor securely to whatever is in front of the spreading section.

When I installed my shelf layout supports (fortunately, without your problem - mine simply screw into studs behind drywall) I used the slotted track system that accepts two-pronged shelf brackets.  In your case, I would use long tracks and set the bottom on the floor or on something standing on the floor to absorb the vertical load.  By using all the screw holes in the track, you can anchor it securely without overloading any one site.  (This assumes all the 1/8" plastic is in a vertical line.  If it is horizontal, you may have to create screwholes in the tracks with a metal bit.)

As a bonus, you can add shelving above and/or below the layout for neat, off-the-floor storage.  Light items only, please.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on shelf brackets set into tracks)

[bob@osd]

I think I may have outsmarted myself. I built a house with those fancy new ICF's (Insulated Concrete Forms.)  It's great for energy savings and comfort in the basement, but the only way of attaching anything to the walls is by glue or by screwing into 1/8 thick plastic strips imbedded (quite securely) in the styrofoam. I was hoping to use thin paneling in the basement as wall treatment but there is the problem of attaching the shelf for the walk-around portion of the layout. There is a piece of hardware that is like a tube with a washer face on the front and a threaded sleeve on the back end. As you tighten the screw, the center mushrooms out to tighten the thing onto whatever you have put it through. I could position them to go through the plastic strip so they would be attached to more than just the paneling. Has anyone tried anything similar to this. I have to run 130' of shelf, and I would like to give it a fighting chance of staying on the wall, not on the floor.    Thanks,  Bob T