The gadget you have described is known as a, "Molly," readily available in a multitude of sizes at your hardware or home improvement store of choice. It WILL anchor securely to whatever is in front of the spreading section.
When I installed my shelf layout supports (fortunately, without your problem - mine simply screw into studs behind drywall) I used the slotted track system that accepts two-pronged shelf brackets. In your case, I would use long tracks and set the bottom on the floor or on something standing on the floor to absorb the vertical load. By using all the screw holes in the track, you can anchor it securely without overloading any one site. (This assumes all the 1/8" plastic is in a vertical line. If it is horizontal, you may have to create screwholes in the tracks with a metal bit.)
As a bonus, you can add shelving above and/or below the layout for neat, off-the-floor storage. Light items only, please.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on shelf brackets set into tracks)
You might be wise to check the building codes in your area before going too far with your shelving. It is my understanding that such styrofoam blocks must be covered by some type of fire-resistant material, such as drywall. The fasteners you mention are a type of hollow wall fasteners. As the name implies, they are used to fasten items to a hollow wall such as the stud walls normally used in house construction. Since you don't really have a hollow wall I'm not sure that the use of those fasteners would work. I'm sure the contractor who built your house would have some good suggestions for fastening your shelving. Let us know how you make out! Art.
Lee
Chuck,
Can you briefly describe the benchwork you're using on the shelf brackets? I also have double-prong brackets and standards installed, but have not yet decided whether to reuse some old open-grid sections of a prior layout, or build new L-girder benchwork. Foam board is not available in my area (San Jose, CA).
I can definitely endorse the two-prong shelf bracket approach. I'm building a shelf layout on two walls of a finished garage in a townhouse complex. The garage is lightly used, so it stays clean. With fascia installed, track lighting on the finished ceiling, the layout appears to "float" from the walls, has a very neat look, and the shelving underneath is great for various supplies and extra cars. I added an epoxy coating plus rubber gel mats on the floor for more comfort.
Chris
Bob,
I used foam forms in a 1991 addition, 2" inside and out, and 8" concrete in the middle. GREAT for comfort. Molly bolts are the best way, I think, but you would need at least 6" bolts if you have 2" foam. You also could slice out the foam where you need to attach shelving (before covering the forms, and yes, code will require drywall or some other fire-rated material over the foam). Bolt wood blocking the thickness of the foam directly to the concrete, document exactly where the blocking is installed, and then rock the walls. That will give you structurally sound attachment points. If you're into overkill as I am, you can also use construction adhesive to further secure the blocking to the concrete, in addition to the bolts. Gary
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
FriendlyEspee wrote: Foam board is not available in my area (San Jose, CA).
Foam board is not available in my area (San Jose, CA).
There are plenty of alternatives to foam board, but if you are willing to drive a bit, it's not hard to find. Clients and friends have had good luck at:Pacific Supply1675 Mission RdS San Francisco, CA 94080(415) 285-1010
Pacific Supply1735 24th St.Oakland(510) 832-5724Last time I called, the So. SF location had some sizes in stock and was willing to order others. Be sure to call first before driving if you're interested.
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