As my layout has to be easily movable, I'm using 3x1 fro the framing and 1/2" thick ply sheet on the top. I can't use L girder construction on this, because it needs to be portablle. A hint for those who need portable layouts is to cut a 4"-5" slot on each of the outer members to allow you to get hold of the layout easily and move it (mine is 2' 8" wide)
Dennis
Other thoughts, based on British modeller Iain Rice's experience:
- you can use l-girders for portable sections in these ways:
1) separate the l-girder from the portable sections (see Kalmbach's Model railroad planning 2006 page 23). The sections can than, if need be, be bolted to the l-girder yet they are easily movable in case of a move of house or just from or to the workbench.
2) use plywood for l-girders. Those that want to be safe can use 3/4 " thick and 6 " high strips and screw and glue them together. Cut out circular or oval holes to make things lighter without sacrificing strenght (see Kalmbach's Small, smart & practical track plans page 12).
- It is not the individual strength of each piece of wood that makes things practical but the way everything fits together. In effect you build a bridge.
Remember, as long as you do not sleep on it, walk on it, lean on it or swing from it, it does not need to carry that much weight. Particularly not with todays use of foam for a scenery base, let alone glueshell scenery (one of my favourites).
greetings,
Marc Immeker
While moving numerous times, all over the eastern half of U.S., I've built 9 layouts, always using 1x4 pine, topped with 1x2 furring strips to make a "L" girder, and 1x2 pine, configured to a "L" shaped leg, through all sorts of humidity and heat/cool problems, in basements, attics, and garages....and reused them over and over in the rebuilds when I've moved. Never a problem....
To the guy that considered the "exotic" woods, best think again.... that "hard stuff" when it really ages is virtually impossible to work with later, and no matter how hard you plan, it's inevitable that you will want to move some structural piece at a later date....
Hobo Joe
usi
Dan,
My thinking regarding using 2X4 lumber is that is overkill but to each is own. I remember seeing a layout that was built with 2X6'a so The size is in your choice and budget. Getting knot free pine lumber is getting to be more of a challenge. That is why I would encourage your thinking of the plywood strips. It is very cost effective for the price. If you had to buy say 10 1X4s @ 3.00 that would 30.00. finding a 4 to 6 ply plywood sheet at $30.00 would give you 11 strips of lumber. That is one free I know there are math heads out there who are thinking that you should get 12 pieces. But you have to take in account the bite of the saw blade. The savings would even improve with the choice of going to 1X3s 15 per sheet.
If you are going to put hardboard on the egde you can use rougher faced plywood and not the sanded smooth stuff which is a little more costly.