MTCarpenter wrote:First off, thanks everyone for the input. This is why I love this site and the folks here.Second, I only have 6 switches on this layout, so railclamps might be cost effective. I don't think I'd want to do this over an entire layout.But, I'm wondering if I really need to tap the drilled holes if using the Ariso screws? Can't I just thread them? They seem small enough that I wouldn't have to do that. kstrong wrote:Another option would be to use self-tapping screws. These have a coarser thread, kind of like a wood screw. One fellow out here did that for all his track (before Aristo track was available) and had very good results. You still need to drill the hole, but you save the step of tapping--and the hassle of breaking the tap.Later,Kkstrong - would you happen to know what size they were?
First off, thanks everyone for the input. This is why I love this site and the folks here.
Second, I only have 6 switches on this layout, so railclamps might be cost effective. I don't think I'd want to do this over an entire layout.
But, I'm wondering if I really need to tap the drilled holes if using the Ariso screws? Can't I just thread them? They seem small enough that I wouldn't have to do that.
kstrong wrote:Another option would be to use self-tapping screws. These have a coarser thread, kind of like a wood screw. One fellow out here did that for all his track (before Aristo track was available) and had very good results. You still need to drill the hole, but you save the step of tapping--and the hassle of breaking the tap.Later,K
kstrong - would you happen to know what size they were?
Yes i agree on that about Aristo joiners becoming unreliable. I have had trouble here, after about a year or two they fill up with dirt and become high restances. When they do i remove them and clean the whole thing up and put on an LGB joiner and solder the joint, no more trouble.
In theory those Aristo Joiners look to be a pretty good idea but in fact in my opinion they are not very good at all and this is not saying a word against Aristo track itslef.
Rgds Ian
Excellent input from everyone. Thanks for the comments.
I'm now leaning toward what Ian and others have suggested for the clamps. At the very least I'm going to use clamps at the switches.
Mark; funny you should comment about your fat fingers, i too have fat fingers and they are short as well, and at 70 my eyes aren't too good either. But i find Hilllman clamps to be easier to fit than split jaw. I don't even like the Hillman split jaw type, ie you have three components to get into position rather than two.
Glad i'm not by myself with this shortcoming.
I agree with the others that rail clamps are the way to go over using Aristo's joiners for two reasons:
1) What Ian said about the LGB warranty
2) Aristo Rail joiners don't slide onto LGB rail that easily. You'll find yourself having to force them a bit, which could cause potential collateral damage (primarily to your digits)
Myself, I prefer Split-Jaw over Hillman as my fat fingers seem to work better with them.
Mark
Do not even think about drilling LGB switches; this will obviate your warranty and may cause small internal joiners to fracture in such a way it is not easily visible and this will cause hesitations during transit of shorter locos ie 0-4-0. Mate do not even consider it.
Ron and others have given you good advice and it is in the "bible" use Hillamn clamps, this allows easily removal of the points for maintainence.
If i haven't made myself clear do not do anything to LGB points unless you have too.
rgds Ian
Have fun with your trains
Rail clamps is a good way to go, but if you prefer drilling and tapping the switches is also ok.
I have drilled and tapped all my LGB switches using 4-40 screws because of the more common availability of taps and screws.
Been down for 7 years no problem and these joints required no maintainence.
Bud
I think it would be a much better connection and alot less hassle to use RAIL CLAMP'S because they would allow easy removal of the switch for service. Good Luck, Ron
My plan is to use ArisoCraft track with LGB switches. I'm going to drill out the LGB track to fit the small screws in it that the Ariso track uses to keep it together and to pass along the current.
Anyone see why this wouldn't work?
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