Joining ArisoCraft and LGB Track

[MTCarpenter]

My plan is to use ArisoCraft track with LGB switches.  I'm going to drill out the LGB track to fit the small screws in it that the Ariso track uses to keep it together and to pass along the current.

Anyone see why this wouldn't work?

[emipapa]

I think it would be a much better connection and alot less hassle to use RAIL CLAMP'S because they would allow easy removal of the switch for service.  Good Luck, Ron

[BudSteinhoff]

Rail clamps is a good way to go, but if you prefer drilling and tapping the switches is also ok.

I have drilled  and tapped all my LGB switches using 4-40 screws because of the more common availability of taps and screws.

Been down for 7 years no problem and these joints required no maintainence.

Bud

[vsmith]

Well you can do this, but I do agree that simply using rail clamps is a much better idea, mainly because with rail clamps you can undo the clamps remove a switch for maintanence by simply lifting it straight up without having to pull up the adjacent track like you would have to do if you use the rail joiners . It is one the best choices you can do before you get track layed then a year later have to pull up a mess of track and ballast to get one switch up.

[kstrong]

Another option would be to use self-tapping screws. These have a coarser thread, kind of like a wood screw. One fellow out here did that for all his track (before Aristo track was available) and had very good results. You still need to drill the hole, but you save the step of tapping--and the hassle of breaking the tap.

Later,

K

[MTCarpenter]

First off, thanks everyone for the input.  This is why I love this site and the folks here.

Second, I only have 6 switches on this layout, so railclamps might be cost effective.  I don't think I'd want to do this over an entire layout.

But, I'm wondering if I really need to tap the drilled holes if using the Ariso screws?  Can't I just thread them?  They seem small enough that I wouldn't have to do that. 

Another option would be to use self-tapping screws. These have a coarser thread, kind of like a wood screw. One fellow out here did that for all his track (before Aristo track was available) and had very good results. You still need to drill the hole, but you save the step of tapping--and the hassle of breaking the tap.

Later,

K

kstrong - would you happen to know what size they were?

[DennisB]

I had repaired a large rail layout that had used both AristoCraft & LGB. After four years most of the Aristo srewed clamps had to be replaced by railclamps. It will cost more initially but will save you a great deal of grief and improve the fun factor later on.

[Anonymous]

Do not even think about drilling LGB switches; this will obviate your warranty and may cause small internal joiners to fracture in such a way it is not easily visible and this will cause hesitations during transit of shorter locos ie 0-4-0. Mate do not even consider it.

Ron and others have given you good advice and it is in the "bible"  use Hillamn clamps, this allows easily removal of the points for maintainence.

If i haven't made myself clear do not do anything to LGB points unless you have too.

rgds Ian

[markperr]

I agree with the others that rail clamps are the way to go over using Aristo's joiners for two reasons:

1) What Ian said about the LGB warranty

2) Aristo Rail joiners don't slide onto LGB rail that easily.  You'll find yourself having to force them a bit, which could cause potential collateral damage (primarily to your digits)

Myself, I prefer Split-Jaw over Hillman as my fat fingers seem to work better with them.

Mark

 

 

[Anonymous]

Mark; funny you should comment about your fat fingers, i too have fat fingers and they are short as well, and at 70 my eyes aren't too good either. But i find Hilllman clamps to be easier to fit than split jaw. I don't even like the Hillman split jaw type, ie you have three components to get into position rather than two.

Glad i'm not by myself with this shortcoming.

Rgds Ian

[MTCarpenter]

Excellent input from everyone.  Thanks for the comments.

I'm now leaning toward what Ian and others have suggested for the clamps.  At the very least I'm going to use clamps at the switches.

[cacole]

The Aristo screws are unreliable.  I have had a lot of them work loose and fall out.  If it ever gets to the point that they cause the track to start working apart at the joints, I'll use rail clamps.

[Anonymous]

Yes i agree on that about Aristo joiners becoming unreliable. I have had trouble here, after about a year or two they fill up with dirt and become high restances. When they do i remove them and clean the whole thing up and put on an LGB joiner and solder the joint, no more trouble.

In theory those Aristo Joiners look to be a pretty good idea but in fact in my opinion they are not very good at all and this is not saying a word against Aristo track itslef.

Rgds Ian

[kstrong]

First off, thanks everyone for the input.  This is why I love this site and the folks here.

Second, I only have 6 switches on this layout, so railclamps might be cost effective.  I don't think I'd want to do this over an entire layout.

But, I'm wondering if I really need to tap the drilled holes if using the Ariso screws?  Can't I just thread them?  They seem small enough that I wouldn't have to do that. 

Another option would be to use self-tapping screws. These have a coarser thread, kind of like a wood screw. One fellow out here did that for all his track (before Aristo track was available) and had very good results. You still need to drill the hole, but you save the step of tapping--and the hassle of breaking the tap.

Later,

K

kstrong - would you happen to know what size they were?

I believe either #0 or #1. Smallish, at the very least. Micro Fasteners sells them in various finishes. The hole was drilled on the outside, 45° into where the base and the web of the rail meet.

If you're only going to do a few joints, then rail clamps are the ideal, non-destructive way to go. You can, however, get 100 screws (enough for 50 joints) for the cost of one rail clamp. So, if "cost-effective" is the goal, it's a viable option. Drilling a small hole into the base of the rail at the joint will not interfere with the operation of the switch in the slightest regard. Whether that voids the warranty, I don't know. Most manufacturers allow reasonable and expected modifications to be made to their product and still honor the warranty. I generally don't worry about that kind of stuff. Taking a hack-saw down the middle of the locomotive DOES void the warranty, so I'm pretty much out of luck in that regard for everything I own, anyway.

Later,

K