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Mulch question

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 25, 2006 7:06 PM

I am of the opinion that mulch is a pain in the neck in model garden railway, i have got rid of mine.

What i have got instead is all sorts of stones and decorative gravel,it looks good never needs replacing and has little maintenance.

Rgds Ian

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  • From: West Texas
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Posted by imrnjr on Thursday, November 16, 2006 10:27 PM

Well two questions ,,,, do you have a run off or float problems in heavy an medium rains and are you trying to improve or amend the soil with the mulch?  if wash or float is a problem I'd stay with cypress or cedar, if amending the soil I'd go to a hardwood/pine bark which breaks down more quickly. 

Don't have any experience with ecualyptus, but have used cedar and cypress for over 20 years with good results.  cedar stays put and lasts 2 to 2 1/2 years repels a lot bugs (fleas/ticks and scopions) and is aromatic when put out, cypress doesn't float away in a heavy rain, and last about 2 years in beds.  if mulching a tree use pine straw to keep from smothering  it.

 

my two cents.

 

mr

 

mr

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Posted by TheJoat on Thursday, November 16, 2006 9:51 AM
I'm pretty much giving up on the mulch in the railroad area.   It has a bad habit of getting on the tracks and derailing my trains.   Also, when clearing leaves, it's hard to just get the leaves and leave the mulch.   Instead, I'm using more ground cover, specifically Creeping Jenny and Maizus.   Others as I come across something neat.  
Bruce
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:08 PM

 When I went to Texas A&M Ext. Agancy for classes it was suggested only 1' or under of dirt or mulch. Some people suggested way under 1' but on all my jobs I used the 1' rule. There is a reason why and it is you can kill a tree dead as a door nail with to much.

Ever seen a dozer place some dirt under a tree that was living at once? Lets say he placed 3' to 4' of dirt over the base......just killed it. I see it every day as my town around here grows.

How to make a tree ring by me:

1) shovel that has a 10" stright block cut at bottom and a handle: Used for outline of ring around tree and for cutting grass.

2) upside down paint: Used to mark the tree ring with another shovel placed on the tree while going around in the circle. (we used bright green)

3) long handle shovel with stright cut: Used for cutting grass and used as scoop to haul grass and old dirt away.

4) white paint: Used for any root that is seen above ground so we/you don't hit it while your taking the grass out.

5) now you have a tree ring ready for mulch and all you have to do from time to time is use the small flat shovel to cut the ring again. This all use to take me and my guys 10 min a tree. One on shovel, other on long shovel and other on wheel barrel.

6) NOT all of this is in order to the true numbers of how we did it

We also used tree spikes for the customers that you use at the line where the trees branches stop. You can use the core or injections but I don't like them.

Several things to remember about lawn cutting while thinking about tree rings is can or will I be able to get around the trees after I place it down? Several places we had to make islands of much around several trees because there was no way to cut unless weedeater which really was a very waste of time.

Color of mulch was mainly dark, now if you see what all they use to make the mulch now days you would understand why I use just the dark mulch.

My 1/2 cent.  William 

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Posted by ttrigg on Monday, November 13, 2006 10:21 PM
 markperr wrote:
  I'd like to make a plea that, if you have considered it, that you please please please NOT use lava rock.  I detest the stuff.  It is all over my plant beds at my wife's insistence.  It is a royal PITA (Pain In The A$$) to pull weeds from.  It tears the flesh and is nearly impossible to pick up and move without the use of a shop vac.  Planting new plants in the beds is an all day chore.  UGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
Mark

PLUS: it grabs and holds any stray leaf, any piece of windblown paper, it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove dog deposits.  On the flip side it looks absolutely fabulous for about the first three months and then goes down hill VERY QUICKLY.   When using the vacuum it has a tendency to chew up the fan, (the dust that is). UGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Tom Trigg

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Posted by markperr on Monday, November 13, 2006 2:21 PM

I'd like to make a plea that, if you have considered it, that you please please please NOT use lava rock.  I detest the stuff.  It is all over my plant beds at my wife's insistence.  It is a royal PITA (Pain In The A$$) to pull weeds from.  It tears the flesh and is nearly impossible to pick up and move without the use of a shop vac.  Planting new plants in the beds is an all day chore.  UGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Mark

 

 

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Posted by ttrigg on Saturday, October 28, 2006 1:49 PM
David:
You have discovered the miracle of Mother Nature!  Leave the old mulch in place, it will continue to decompose and enrich the soil where it is.  Mulch turns into compost, compost turns into very rich soil.  I use Eucalyptus mulch.  If you've ever seen a eucalyptus tree you no doubt have wondered why nothing grows for twenty feet around the tree.  The oils in eucalyptus are a very good NATURAL herbicide and a somewhat decent natural insecticide.  

Tom Trigg

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Posted by two tone on Thursday, October 26, 2006 12:04 PM
Here in England we do not put new mulch on top of old as it may be infected.adding new will omly add to the problem. put a liner down and use 5-6mm gravel all you need to do then is to stop any weed that pop there heads up with a mild weed killer

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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Posted by Rene Schweitzer on Tuesday, October 24, 2006 2:28 PM
Keep the old mulch there. It will eventually break down and become part of the soil.

I can't help with what mulch is best. It depends on your budget, needs, etc.

Don Parker recently wrote about using chopped leaves as mulch to protect trees and fragile plants during the winter. I'd certainly want the leaves ground up in some way, so they don't smother the plants.

Rene Schweitzer

Classic Toy Trains/Garden Railways/Model Railroader

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Posted by John Busby on Monday, October 23, 2006 8:46 PM

Hi FG&J

Mulching is a job you have to do periodically as the organic material breaks down it needs to be kept about 4" deep to work effectively.

The alternative is a rock or brick maybe even glass mulch which will not have to be replaced but may not suit your garden railway.

As to specific type of mulch and bedding down for winter those questions are specific to your area so unfortunately I cannot help with those.

regards John

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Mulch question
Posted by FJ and G on Monday, October 23, 2006 7:35 PM
I'm going to get a load of mulch in my pickup truck tomorrow for the trees that border my garden RR. It seems every 6 months the mulch disintigrates and I need more.

Question. Should I keep putting the new mulch over the decayed or half-decayed mulch or should I remove the old mulch.

Also, what type of mulch is best, hardwood or softwood.

Third, is some sort of compost made from leaves also recommended to bed the trees for the winter.

Thanks.

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