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 When I went to Texas A&M Ext. Agancy for classes it was suggested only 1' or under of dirt or mulch. Some people suggested way under 1' but on all my jobs I used the 1' rule. There is a reason why and it is you can kill a tree dead as a door nail with to much. Ever seen a dozer place some dirt under a tree that was living at once? Lets say he placed 3' to 4' of dirt over the base......just killed it. I see it every day as my town around here grows. How to make a tree ring by me: 1) shovel that has a 10" stright block cut at bottom and a handle: Used for outline of ring around tree and for cutting grass. 2) upside down paint: Used to mark the tree ring with another shovel placed on the tree while going around in the circle. (we used bright green) 3) long handle shovel with stright cut: Used for cutting grass and used as scoop to haul grass and old dirt away. 4) white paint: Used for any root that is seen above ground so we/you don't hit it while your taking the grass out. 5) now you have a tree ring ready for mulch and all you have to do from time to time is use the small flat shovel to cut the ring again. This all use to take me and my guys 10 min a tree. One on shovel, other on long shovel and other on wheel barrel. 6) NOT all of this is in order to the true numbers of how we did it We also used tree spikes for the customers that you use at the line where the trees branches stop. You can use the core or injections but I don't like them. Several things to remember about lawn cutting while thinking about tree rings is can or will I be able to get around the trees after I place it down? Several places we had to make islands of much around several trees because there was no way to cut unless weedeater which really was a very waste of time. Color of mulch was mainly dark, now if you see what all they use to make the mulch now days you would understand why I use just the dark mulch. My 1/2 cent.  William
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