Do you need a railbender for Code 250?

[FJ and G]

And,

Are there different rail benders for different codes or does one bender fit all sizes?

Thanks.


Sorry; put in wrong category and tried but failed to delete/move. Anyway, still appreciate response

[Anonymous]

Rail benders  are  section specific and ideally  best obtained for the specific manufacturer.

Some are multi head but if you are only using one make  then it doesnt matter,Personally any rail is best bent using a bender to avoid distortion.

[TheJoat]

I've been putting down the AMS code 250 brass track without using a railbender.   I've been using the ladder method for the roadbed and find that it is nice and easy to bend.   Screws hold the track down to the roadbed.

[Greg Elmassian]

Belly bending seems to work fine for brass and nickle silver code 250. You should be able to get an inexpensive bender for this rail though, I think Llagas Creek has one at a reasonable price.

I would opt for the bender, and get the rails perfect before putting in the tie strips. Often belly bending does not curve the rail ends well, so at the rail joints you have track that is too straight.

Regards, Greg

[cokeoven]

I have code 215 and 250 Llagas creek aluminum rail w/llagas tie strips, and all I have to do is slide the rail into the ties, and it bends and holds shape like bending HO flex track. If you are gioing to be using aluminum, I feel that there is no need for a rail bender

[altterrain]

I belly bend my code 335 stainless, granted not for the mainline curves but wherever I need an odd curve for a spur or siding. It works just fine. As long as your not looking for a super smooth curves you will not need a rail bender.

 -Brian