smallest curves on your layout

[Anonymous]

I am curious to know what types of curves everyone uses on their layout.

[Anonymous]

I am curious to know what types of curves everyone uses on their layout.

[vsmith]

An indoor garage layout coupled with small industrial loco's equals 4ft diameter curves, and even those eat up a lot of space. Its a safe bet I'll never run a big LGB Mikado on it even if it can take the small turns with no problems. Bachmann Indy is as big as I will go.BTW, Has anyone else SEEN an LGB Mike taking a 4ft curve with the siderods bending out of line at the strategic link LGB built into it, its looks just plain WIERD !!!!!!

[vsmith]

An indoor garage layout coupled with small industrial loco's equals 4ft diameter curves, and even those eat up a lot of space. Its a safe bet I'll never run a big LGB Mikado on it even if it can take the small turns with no problems. Bachmann Indy is as big as I will go.BTW, Has anyone else SEEN an LGB Mike taking a 4ft curve with the siderods bending out of line at the strategic link LGB built into it, its looks just plain WIERD !!!!!!

[Anonymous]

My smallest curve is a 4 foot diameter. I of course would have liked larger curves but the house was kind of in the way. The larger the better as they say. However, it should not deter you from getting out there and making it happen.
Peter

[Anonymous]

My smallest curve is a 4 foot diameter. I of course would have liked larger curves but the house was kind of in the way. The larger the better as they say. However, it should not deter you from getting out there and making it happen.
Peter

[bobgrosh]

My smallest diamater is 2 feet - yes diamater - i have several 1 foot RADIUS curves. Several of the LGB field railway engines wind their way around the tight curves. They look great on them. When I run them out on the main line they just look out of place. The main line and 10 foot diamater minimum but 80 foot diamater in some places. I guess I just like variety

[bobgrosh]

My smallest diamater is 2 feet - yes diamater - i have several 1 foot RADIUS curves. Several of the LGB field railway engines wind their way around the tight curves. They look great on them. When I run them out on the main line they just look out of place. The main line and 10 foot diamater minimum but 80 foot diamater in some places. I guess I just like variety

[cacole]

I wanted to go with 9 foot minimum, which I had room for, but the track wasn't available from AristoCraft at the time, so I had to settle on 8 foot. I knew before I even bagan construction that the only locomotive I would run would be the Bachmann 1:20.3 Consolidation, so I allowed curves that could handle it and its attendant rolling stock without unrealistic overhang on the curves. The only other locomotive I have is a Hartland Doozie railbus, which also fits into the narrow gauge motif.

[cacole]

I wanted to go with 9 foot minimum, which I had room for, but the track wasn't available from AristoCraft at the time, so I had to settle on 8 foot. I knew before I even bagan construction that the only locomotive I would run would be the Bachmann 1:20.3 Consolidation, so I allowed curves that could handle it and its attendant rolling stock without unrealistic overhang on the curves. The only other locomotive I have is a Hartland Doozie railbus, which also fits into the narrow gauge motif.

[Anonymous]

At this time I am running just a large oval comprised of 20ft. curves. Next season, I intend to expand the layout, 10's and 8's will be the largest used at that point. I really don't expect to go beyond "Field Railroad" size engines, LGB type and size. The reason that I choose to use larger diameter curves is to help the handleing of live steamers such as Ruby, Iver and eventualy (come on Lotto!) a Samson. The possible use of R/C of the throttles may change the larger diameter curves to a smaller size......

[Anonymous]

At this time I am running just a large oval comprised of 20ft. curves. Next season, I intend to expand the layout, 10's and 8's will be the largest used at that point. I really don't expect to go beyond "Field Railroad" size engines, LGB type and size. The reason that I choose to use larger diameter curves is to help the handleing of live steamers such as Ruby, Iver and eventualy (come on Lotto!) a Samson. The possible use of R/C of the throttles may change the larger diameter curves to a smaller size......

[Anonymous]

Hi Teran5, OLD DAD here, thanks for trying to help with my "links" page the other morning. I think its working now.

If you like to scratch build you might think about 7/8 inch scale....spike your own rail (its not as hard as it may look, HONEST!) I started spiking my own track when I was 18. You can save a bunch cash going this route.

I am able to run my Bachmann 1:20.3 Consolidation around a 7 1/2 foot diameter curve built with code 197 rail on redwood ties.

I hope your building your layout in such a way that you can take it with when you move out one day.

Good Luck OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Hi Teran5, OLD DAD here, thanks for trying to help with my "links" page the other morning. I think its working now.

If you like to scratch build you might think about 7/8 inch scale....spike your own rail (its not as hard as it may look, HONEST!) I started spiking my own track when I was 18. You can save a bunch cash going this route.

I am able to run my Bachmann 1:20.3 Consolidation around a 7 1/2 foot diameter curve built with code 197 rail on redwood ties.

I hope your building your layout in such a way that you can take it with when you move out one day.

Good Luck OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

I am, and thanks. Mine is LGB flex track with a few sectionals in the first town from when I first started. How does that handlaid track stand up to the weather, and what nails do you use? I have been on the fence about flex vs. handlaid.

[Anonymous]

I am, and thanks. Mine is LGB flex track with a few sectionals in the first town from when I first started. How does that handlaid track stand up to the weather, and what nails do you use? I have been on the fence about flex vs. handlaid.

[Anonymous]

Teran5
Spikes is the word I use... makes people think that I know what I'm doing.

There are two camps regarding track spikes. One group likes stainless steel since it doesn't rust and the other group likes plain steel because it does rust.

Sound confusing? Actually, both are valid. Since stainless steel doesn't rust, these spikes will last indefinitely but they will work loose over time and need to be pushed back down. Dipping the tip of each spike in a water proof glue before insertion into the wood tie usually solves this problem.

Plain steel will rust and the rust will hold the spike in place very well. The down side is that eventually the spike will rust away to the point that it can no longer hold the rail in place.

I have used both types and found that plain steel is lasting about ten years on my track here in Minnesota.

Sections of track built with stainless steel are not quite this old but still look new after six years more or less.

If you belong to the Bay Area Garden Railrod Club ask them for help regarding handlaid track. My wife and I spent a lot of time with some of these "crazy" people during the '94 Garden Railroad Convention in Denver, I'm sure they will help you.

Give hand spiked track a try....you may learn to like it as I did.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Teran5
Spikes is the word I use... makes people think that I know what I'm doing.

There are two camps regarding track spikes. One group likes stainless steel since it doesn't rust and the other group likes plain steel because it does rust.

Sound confusing? Actually, both are valid. Since stainless steel doesn't rust, these spikes will last indefinitely but they will work loose over time and need to be pushed back down. Dipping the tip of each spike in a water proof glue before insertion into the wood tie usually solves this problem.

Plain steel will rust and the rust will hold the spike in place very well. The down side is that eventually the spike will rust away to the point that it can no longer hold the rail in place.

I have used both types and found that plain steel is lasting about ten years on my track here in Minnesota.

Sections of track built with stainless steel are not quite this old but still look new after six years more or less.

If you belong to the Bay Area Garden Railrod Club ask them for help regarding handlaid track. My wife and I spent a lot of time with some of these "crazy" people during the '94 Garden Railroad Convention in Denver, I'm sure they will help you.

Give hand spiked track a try....you may learn to like it as I did.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info on spikes OLD DAD. I was also wondering if it was hard to keep the rails in gauge, because i find it hard to get the right curves on two rails for the flex track I'm using. Who knows, maybe if you get out here in 2006, my railway will be on the tour... one can only hope and dream...

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info on spikes OLD DAD. I was also wondering if it was hard to keep the rails in gauge, because i find it hard to get the right curves on two rails for the flex track I'm using. Who knows, maybe if you get out here in 2006, my railway will be on the tour... one can only hope and dream...

[Anonymous]

Teran5
Keeping the rails in gauge for any type of track depends a great deal on how sound your roadbed is built. Hand built track needs some sort of base so that the ties can be fastened securely. I use spline roadbed others use a set of square dowels to support the ties.

We would love to return to the bay area in 2006 and see your layout.....it all depends on our finances at that time. And you thought only young people had financial limitations, not true.

If your not already on the tour list contact the powers-that-be and ask if your layout can be included....do this soon!

Our layout was on the 1999 national convention tour of the N.M.R.A. here in the twin cities....it was a great experience.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Teran5
Keeping the rails in gauge for any type of track depends a great deal on how sound your roadbed is built. Hand built track needs some sort of base so that the ties can be fastened securely. I use spline roadbed others use a set of square dowels to support the ties.

We would love to return to the bay area in 2006 and see your layout.....it all depends on our finances at that time. And you thought only young people had financial limitations, not true.

If your not already on the tour list contact the powers-that-be and ask if your layout can be included....do this soon!

Our layout was on the 1999 national convention tour of the N.M.R.A. here in the twin cities....it was a great experience.

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Well, I hope that your finances permit a trip out here in 2006 and I probably should get the ball rolling and contact the powers to be... I'll have to think more about handlaid track with my dog (who loves to run around on my layout when I'm not home, much to my horror when I find track issues....). Thanks for the info and ideas.

[Anonymous]

Well, I hope that your finances permit a trip out here in 2006 and I probably should get the ball rolling and contact the powers to be... I'll have to think more about handlaid track with my dog (who loves to run around on my layout when I'm not home, much to my horror when I find track issues....). Thanks for the info and ideas.

[jtrost]

Jumping in the middle, I'll dive into two of the topics. Mininum radius I use is about 4 ft. A few spots may be tighter but most is 4.5 ft or greater. My Bachmann Consolidation handles them nicely and it all looks good enough for me.

Flex vs. hand laid track is the other topic. I hand laid most of my track. Cut ties from Trex decking and used 1/2 inch spikes (stainless). The Trex holds the spikes well enough that the rust/no rust issue becomes irrelevant. The big issue for me was cost. Hand laid is considerably less expensive. That is if you don't mind 2 to 4 hours on your knees to spike a few feet of track. Hand laid is A LOT of work. The interesting thing of this is that I find I like the appearance of hand laid on the Trex ties more than flex. I had to use flex on bridges and trestles where hand spiking would have been difficult but am not thrilled with the look.

There's my two cents worth.

[jtrost]

Jumping in the middle, I'll dive into two of the topics. Mininum radius I use is about 4 ft. A few spots may be tighter but most is 4.5 ft or greater. My Bachmann Consolidation handles them nicely and it all looks good enough for me.

Flex vs. hand laid track is the other topic. I hand laid most of my track. Cut ties from Trex decking and used 1/2 inch spikes (stainless). The Trex holds the spikes well enough that the rust/no rust issue becomes irrelevant. The big issue for me was cost. Hand laid is considerably less expensive. That is if you don't mind 2 to 4 hours on your knees to spike a few feet of track. Hand laid is A LOT of work. The interesting thing of this is that I find I like the appearance of hand laid on the Trex ties more than flex. I had to use flex on bridges and trestles where hand spiking would have been difficult but am not thrilled with the look.

There's my two cents worth.

[Anonymous]

Hi
My tightest is LGB R1 on the main line a MISTAKE made at the begining of construction.
Now buying live steam locomotives is a pain and the larger Electics other than LGB are out of the question untill I get too stage three if i ever get there
regards John

[Anonymous]

Hi
My tightest is LGB R1 on the main line a MISTAKE made at the begining of construction.
Now buying live steam locomotives is a pain and the larger Electics other than LGB are out of the question untill I get too stage three if i ever get there
regards John

[Anonymous]

I use LGB R1 curves (4ft) but I stagger them.i.e. 1x curve,1x straight,1xcurve ect until I get the right turn.I find that it looks smoother when running and stops wheelspin on a heavily loaded loco.Troy

[Anonymous]

I use LGB R1 curves (4ft) but I stagger them.i.e. 1x curve,1x straight,1xcurve ect until I get the right turn.I find that it looks smoother when running and stops wheelspin on a heavily loaded loco.Troy