Flex track or sectional for flexible road bed install?

[Anonymous]

To close the loop on this, I ordered 4 boxes of AMS code 250 brass rail. Apparently AMS does not have rail joiners, so I’ll probably go with Split Jaw when I go to install the track. I like the idea that it can be formed in larger diameters without a rail bender, so hopefully I won’t have any trouble following the curves on the flexible HDPE roadbed. I kinda like the look of the weathered brass better than stainless steel. Thanks again to all who responded!

[Anonymous]

Thank you for the reply. I talked to St Aubins about the AMS 250 brass and am seriously leaning that way. I suppose if I had my druthers, I'd use Aristo 250 stainless, but that might not be available for another year, the way these things go. I like the way brass ages to a brown anyway more thant the ss.

On the expansion / contraction issue.. HDPE supposedly reacts to temperature changes similar to the plastic tie material commonly used, so maybe I won't have that much of a problem?

BTW, I found a supplier for HDPE http://epsplasticlumber.com/index.shtml 2x4 stock is about $16 for 8'.. I rec'd some complimentary color samples from them the other day as well as a 9" section of 2X4 material. I tried ripping it on my Unisaw and was covered in the wispy shavings it made... I looked like a yeti.. geezus, what a mess that stuff makes! The dry air /static were contributing factors of course. I'm going to have to extend my dust collection plumping to the saw before I do 600' linear feet of this stuff, that's for sure!!!

[kstrong]

I put my screws in around every 2' or so, so the rail would have room to contract and expand. (And it will...) If you give it too little wiggle room the rail will want to pop out of the ties. Best to let the ties move back and forth a bit as well. You may have to go in and occasionally reballast a few areas where movement is common and pronounced, but it's still easier than replacing the ties.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

I think I’ll opt for Hillman rail clamps and skip the soldering, if I go the DCC route.

When using a solid support structure, (as I described above) are the ties screwed down every six inches or so, or do you fasten them at longer intervals to contend with expansion and contraction issues? Probably a dumb question, but I haven't seen anything addressing it. Thanks again.

[kstrong]

I can't comment on the conductivity issues, as I don't run track power. The alloy used by AMS is similar--but not identical--to that of Aristo. I would imagine if you used the common conductivity tricks of rail clamps or jumper wires, that you'd have no trouble at all.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

Hey Mattt,

Check the Accucraft website and click on AMS.. it's all there. HTH.

FWIW, I think I'm just gonna go with the Aristo 332 brass flex track. It'll weather to a dull brown eventually, is cheap and readily available. I'll wind up buying a railbender, but I'll have the capability to have the track go exactly where I need it to. FWIW and good luck.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bob Zajicek

That AMS track certainly has a very realistic looking profile. You are right about the price comparisons too. (I noticed they have the same buy four get one free deal going that Aristo has.) [:)]

They Do [?] Inquiring track buying minds want to know!?

[Anonymous]

That AMS track certainly has a very realistic looking profile. You are right about the price comparisons too. (I noticed they have the same buy four get one free deal going that Aristo has.) Have you had any cleaning / conductivity issues with it yet? I appreciate the tip about the switches, BTW.

I’m not planning on having any curves less than 15’ diameter, if I can help it. Most will be greater than that. Can 332 stainless rail be hand formed to those radii pretty easily or is the 250 code track the only stuff that can be?

Thank you again, this is most informative. [:)]

[kstrong]

I used the AMS code 250 track. It's great stuff, and the price is pretty good, too. St. Aubin advertises the best price I've seen for it. The drawback is that they don't have switches yet. I used Sunset Valley switches instead. There's a difference in the tie size, but once it's in the ground, you really don't notice it. The switches aren't cheap, but neither are the # 6 switches from LGB or Aristo. Comparing apples to apples, that cost will be the same either way. You can go with tighter, cheaper code 332 switches from Aristo if you'd like. Their 5' radius ones aren't terribly bad. I've used them before with decent results and few derailments.

If you're going with code 332, I'd recommend using a railbender. It will bend without one, but it will be much easier with one. The Train-li railbender can be found at www.train-li-usa.com . The review will be in the April GR, so I can't yet point you to it. Suffice to say, I was quite impressed.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

Hey Kevin,

I think you're right about trying to fit sectional track to a flexible road bed... I'm sure it can be done, but geez, this is supposed to be something we do for fun, right.? [:)]

Anyhoo, what kind of track did you use? I'm considering the Aristo 332 stainless. Probably cannot be bent too easily by hand. I'd consider code 250, but is availability and price something to worry about? I haven't seen it at too many places.

That rail bender you mentioned sounds pretty slick..... I didn't know of such a thing. Can you point me to your review? Thanks again.

[kstrong]

I'd go the flex track route. Matching a free-flowing roadbed construction method to the constraints of sectional track is fraught with peril. The advantage of using a sturdy sub roadbed is that the flex track becomes very easy to work with, and depending on your track, you may not even need a railbender. I didn't use one on my line, instead relying on the subroadbed to hold the curves in place. Seems to have worked so far.

If you do decide you need a railbender, I just finished revewing the one made by Train-li, which bends both rails at the same time, and doesn't require removing the rails from the track. It sells for $265, but I think it's worth the money if you're going the flex track route.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

I plan on using Bill Logan’s flexible road bed method to build my railroad.
http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/roadbed/ladder1.htm Our back yard is too uneven to use conventional stone ballast to secure the track.
I’m wondering whether it’s best to use sectional track and templates to locate and install the roadbed, or just install the roadbed and use flex track? I’m aware that flex track must be bent using a rail bender which can present challenges all of it’s own. I’m kinda torn between those hassles and the others associated with using sectional track and getting the roadbed laid out to correctly match it.

Thank you much for your thoughts.