Rail Soldering

[markperr]

I've heard the arguments both for and against and out of sheer laziness I have decided against soldering. Instead, I use conductive grease at the rail joints. Both Aristo and LGB sell a version of it. Works real good. No conductivity problems on at any joints.
Mark

[mtm1site]

Thanks for the info reguarding rail jumpers. After surfing various forums I think I am going to Solder jumper wires with a little extra lengths so if I have to relocate track I can cut and resplice them as needed.Also I will be ordering rail clamps for the switches. A simple solution. Please bear with me when asking simple questions, as I have subscribed to G.R. for about 5 yrs. but am totally new to the practical side of the hobby and will have more "on the job training" questions as I go. I am finally going to put a railroad in the backyard. I am starting small but plan to expand. Thanks.

[Anonymous]

I realize there are some people who have good luck using just the stock Aristocraft joiners; but, IMOHO, the only sure fire way to maintain good electrical continuity throughout an outdoor layout is to either solder jumpers across the joints or to use rail clamps. I suspect it probably has something to do with the climate in your area. There are multiple things that can cause a joint to develop some electrical resistance or to fail altogether.

* Expansion/contraction of the track
* Freezing/melting of moisture in the joint
* Vibration caused when a train moves across the joint
* Etc.

Check out George Schreyer site for his "Track Soldering" tips:

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/track_soldering_tips.html

I used this method to solder jumpers across the joints. With jumpers, there is enough bend in the wire to allow for expansion/contraction. And, if you ever need to take it apart, it is a simple matter of cutting the wire jumper. I do recommending NOT soldering to switches, use rail clamps. That makes it easier to remove them for maintenance.

There is one more thing worth pointing out. Insuring good electrical continuity throughout your layout alleviates the need for having multiple power drops from the transformer to the track. Brass track is a good electrical conductor; and, code 332 track has a large cross area. The track itself is more than capable of handling the current. In fact, you probably have less loss in code 332 brass track then you do in 12ga copper wire (or even 10ga). I have 200' of track where I used a combination of soldered jumpers and rail clamps. I have had zero electrical continuity problems; and, I only attach power to the track in one spot.

Jon

[tangerine-jack]

Welcome mtm1site[#welcome]
Cruise around this web site a little and you will get all the answers you need. I have no problems with the Aristo screws (except when they fall into the ballast!) and I also use jumper wires and multiple feeds. Many of the contributors to this forum have had excellent results with just the rail joiners as made. I like to over do things just a bit. If you do decide to solder, make sure you use a propane torch to heat the rail, a soldering iron just won't cut it with the heavy brass rail in the garden.
Any method will work fine, the important thing is to get some trains running, you can always upgrade later. Have fun!!!

[oX)]

[mtm1site]

I am beyond the planning stage of a small garden railroad having already bought Aristo track during their special for track. My question has to do with electrical conductivity for the whole track system. I feel that the screws with the aristo track will do the job but I also want a backup for the screws. Will it be OK to solder a jumper wire from both ends of the pieces of track and mechanicaly join them together so I can relocate the track if necessary.If I can, will there be any problems,& what typeand size wire should I use?

[whiterab]

Once you get use to screwing in those little *$&%^ the Aristo rail joiners work fine. They do back out and loosen themselves from the vibrations of the track and need to be checked periodically and tightened.

I wouldn't recommend using them at turnouts though. Get some railclamps from Hillmans or Split Jaw to tie in your turnouts. Sooner or later you are going to have to pull your turnouts for maintenance and they are a lot easier to pull with the rail clamps.

They would be almost impossible to remove if you solder.

Also be sure to leave a little gap between the rails to allow for expansion. Otherwise no matter how straight you lay your track, it will look like spagetti after a hot sun has worked on it. I use a mix of rail clamps and aristo joiners throughout the layout. About every third connection is railclamps. The clamps are stronger and give better connectivity but the regular joiners are better at handling expansion. This also gives you a lot of extra screws. Replacements for those that get lost in the ballast.

[cacole]

Just use the setscrews that come with the AristoCraft track instead of soldering. Remember, weather is going to have more effect on outdoor track expanding and contracting with changes in the weather, and soldered rail joints cannot slip to allow for this. Depedning on how long a straight stretch of track you might have, this could cause major track maintenance problems.

If you're concerned about electrical continuity because you're going to be using track power, a better alternative would be to solder jumper wires across each track joint. Just use stranded wire of 22 gauge or so, stripped at each end and soldered to the outside of the rail away from the rail joiner.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Not a good idea to solder joiners to track, & thus track together!!! What about when you want to change the layout, have to pull a turnout for repairs, decide to insert a rerailer, etc.?

Soldering will also limit slippage needed to allow for expansion and contraction due to weather. Likewise, I don't fasten track down, but let it float in ballast just like 1:1 railroads do, so far (3years) so good!

Budget will determine much of what you do. After 3 years, I'm scrapping the connector idea, and using rail clamps for everything; no losing and fighting those #@%$&^**@ little screws (which didn't work all that badly once u got them in).

I'm sure that there are as many approaches to this as there are contributers to the forum, but never heard of solidly soldering track/connector/track together. Have heard and seen where people have soldered jumper wires over the joint on outside of track where it won't interfere with wheel flanges.

To each his own --------!

[mgilger]

Thanks for everyone that responded to my previous email. Next questions. I was planning on soldering each rail joiner. Is that a good idea? I'm using Astro-Craft track.

Thanks,
Mark