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I realize there are some people who have good luck using just the stock Aristocraft joiners; but, IMOHO, the only sure fire way to maintain good electrical continuity throughout an outdoor layout is to either solder jumpers across the joints or to use rail clamps. I suspect it probably has something to do with the climate in your area. There are multiple things that can cause a joint to develop some electrical resistance or to fail altogether. <br /> <br />* Expansion/contraction of the track <br />* Freezing/melting of moisture in the joint <br />* Vibration caused when a train moves across the joint <br />* Etc. <br /> <br />Check out George Schreyer site for his "Track Soldering" tips: <br /> <br /> http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/track_soldering_tips.html <br /> <br />I used this method to solder jumpers across the joints. With jumpers, there is enough bend in the wire to allow for expansion/contraction. And, if you ever need to take it apart, it is a simple matter of cutting the wire jumper. I do recommending NOT soldering to switches, use rail clamps. That makes it easier to remove them for maintenance. <br /> <br />There is one more thing worth pointing out. Insuring good electrical continuity throughout your layout alleviates the need for having multiple power drops from the transformer to the track. Brass track is a good electrical conductor; and, code 332 track has a large cross area. The track itself is more than capable of handling the current. In fact, you probably have less loss in code 332 brass track then you do in 12ga copper wire (or even 10ga). I have 200' of track where I used a combination of soldered jumpers and rail clamps. I have had zero electrical continuity problems; and, I only attach power to the track in one spot. <br /> <br />Jon
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