Testors Custom Decal System...

[Anonymous]

[#dots] I give up on this making your sticker thing. Dang programs like Freehand and The Print Shop Deluxe V20 are well deep, I guess I am shallow.
To heck with them. Any one want free stuff?
Can not even make a hearld......

[bman36]

Big Boy,
Thanks for the links! Will check em' out. Later eh...Brian.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Hi guys!

I don't normally cross the tracks and step into the garden, but this topic caught my eye.

Over on the MR forum we have been discussing how to transfer images to models using the computer. From reading the posts here, it sounds like some of you are having trouble with artwork. Artwork is really pretty fun and easy, however without white, it can get tricky to get the desired results.

It also sounds like you have some good experience printing decals. This is where I need answers and advice. If you don't mind a little graffiti, how about stopping by and checking out these topics.[swg]

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16493
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16086

Model railroading is fun, no matter where you do it!!!

I'm inviting you guys to join us over on MR because I don't think you want all of us tromping through the garden.[swg]

[Anonymous]

Here is a link for model railroaders "Clip Art" on a CD for only $25. ... http://www.modelbuilder.info

[DSchmitt]

Military modelers often use Future brand floor wax as a gloss coat under decals. They say it makes a very thin even coat and is very durable.

[Anonymous]

Bman,
When you put the gloss paint under the decals, did you use enamle or acrylic(sp?).

[bman36]

OLD DAD,
Make sure ya' show me this program. See you tomorrow. Guys...pics may take a while. email server is down. Waiting. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Hay guys, if your looking for a low priced program that will do good graphics check out "The Print Shop" or "Print Artist" about 50$ each. These programs can also receive scanned images and incorporate them into your designs.

I'm using an i-mac but the same programs should be available for PCs.

OLD DAD .....Larry T.

[jmozz]

Brian can you send me some pics of your logo decals on your train thanks jmozz

[bman36]

Capt. C.,
Sounds right! For masking I use automotive striping tape. Any colour will do, and I prefer using 1/8" in width. You can find this at just about any auto parts store. This tape will help prevent "bleeding" under the edge that you can get with masking tape. Apply the tape stripe first and then add masking tape close to the edge. Make sure to pull off the clear film off the stripe tape or the masking tape will fall off. Make sense??? Hope so. Practice masking off on a sample first. Perhaps a margarine lid or other plastic item. This way you can test the results before shooting the coach. Let us know how it goes. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bman36

Hi guys,
Success!!! Followed directions and shot a coat of clear gloss where the decals go. Reprinted decals and coated them with the "Decal Bonder". Re-applied and finished with Testors Dull Cote. Looks great now and I am pleased with the results. Thanks to all who offered advice. Later eh...Brian.

Howdy y'all,

OK, let me run this by you and see if it is worthy of a salute or damnation...

I have bought a White Pass and Yukon Bachmann passenger coach on some sort of sale from Trainworld. It got here yesterday. I plan to reletter it and do some painting.

If I want to reletter it I must

...first, above the windows on the coach where it currently has the letters W.P. and Y., mask and paint it lets say "gloss black."

Second, print and prepare the decals from the decal sheet via printing it, letting it dry, spraying it with decal film and letting that dry.

Third, I must carefully cut the decals close and apply them to the glossed area, let that dry and then...

Lastly, apply a "dull" clear laquer coat to have the proper (good looking finish).

It that about the procedure.


What say you...

[bman36]

Hi guys,
Success!!! Followed directions and shot a coat of clear gloss where the decals go. Reprinted decals and coated them with the "Decal Bonder". Re-applied and finished with Testors Dull Cote. Looks great now and I am pleased with the results. Thanks to all who offered advice. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Guess there is not a fair price decal custom system [:(] I checked online sites and about 45.00 a hour for set up. Gasp [B)]

How did it go Bman?

[bman36]

Bluebonnet-71,
Do you have Microsoft Word? This is a very easy program to use. It will only give you text, but some really neat variations. All sorts of colours too. Working on my decals today amongst my other projects. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Seeing how this is to a head here....[|)] Is there a program that I can either buy that can do the name and the graphic?
I am not into high speed low drag programs yet. Like Paint Shop Pro, etc. [:(]
Might as well say I am lame[V]

[bman36]

Capt. C.,
Been too busy to fini***his off. Back at it on Tuesday. Gonna' spray the tender with clear gloss, decal, and then dull cote. Will let you know in a few days what the results are. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

What ever became of this topic. Bman? How did it turn out?

[Anonymous]

This is a bit I have copied from the questions and answers page.It's referring to Supercal decal film but I assume that most of them must be similar.


"This is another version of SuperCal decal film and requires the use of a
finishing spray at additinal expense and you will find that unless you leave
a large area of clear decal around the bit you want you will end up with
ragged edges to your printing..
If you want a cheaper method of printing your own decals using ink jet
printers which does not have these problems and requires no finishing spray
then use the JetCal system. If you use water based varnishes it will give
you a white background whilst if you want a clear background then use
solvent based varnish (asny white spirit based varnish will do)
Once again I must advise that ALL methods of printing using computer
printers and laser copiers will produce transluscent or transparent graphics
which will "disappear" if put on a darker colour except for black which is
opaque. The only option is to use the Jetcal system with a water based
varnish but you will have difficulty matching the background colour of your
decal to the colour of your model as printing and paints do not produce an
exact colour match
JetCal decal film is available from the Decal Paper Store at
www.thedecalpaperstore.com or e-mail them at"

There is a bit more to it but is gets very technical.Hope this helps.Troy

[bman36]

Troy ,
That would be appreciated. If you can locate it...go for it. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Hello all.On the modelling tram site I belong to the was a big article on decal paper.It depends on the base of the varnish applied to the decal to seal it on the loco.I can't remember which way round it was (but can find out) but if you use a spirit based varnish it goes hazy and if you use a water based varnist it stays clear or vice versa
Hope this helps.If you need more info I'll dig out the article and post it.Troy

[bman36]

DSchmitt,
The paint is actually flat. Come to think of it this is the first time I have put decals on a flat colour. Thanks so much for the advice. Will give the future a test on a sample item. Makes sense from what you are saying. Time to fire up the printer. Later eh...Brian.

[DSchmitt]

Was the paint flat or gloss. Hazing often happens on flat paint. Military modelers often spray or even brush on a thin coat of Future (the never recommend any other brand) floor wax on the area they are decaling. Then follow with a clear coat (flat or gloss) depending on the fini***hey want.

The following is fromthe Greatmodel's Newsletter They are an online store that sells plastic and Resin model kits. They are not a train store, but do sell many mode kits that could be used on train layouts.


2.) Apply a good gloss coat to your model. A gloss coat is vital to reduce silvering.
Flat paints have all kinds of microscopic ridges that will hold tiny bubbles of air under
your decals. It is these bubbles that cause the silvering effect. It doesn't really matter what
you use for a gloss coat, it can be Future, Modelmaster Metalizer Sealer, or any of the other gloss
coats out there - or you can start with a gloss color coat in which case you won't need the extra step.
Try some different methods and see what works best for you.

[bman36]

Hey All,
Well the tender from my Shay is now decalled. Not happy with the results. Could be the decal paper but it turned hazy underneath when it dried. Tried decal softening solution and waiting on the results. You can clearly see the outline of the decal and this really bugs me. Trimmed it very close yet it looks "thick" to me. I really don't want to repaint the tender so hoping for the best. Will let you know how this all turns out. Details details I tell ya. Maybe I'll weather the daylights out of it. Back to the drawing board. Later eh...Brian.

[bman36]

Capt. C.,
I went the unconventional route. Since a printer cannot print white, I went with all colour. Kinda' flashy for a railroad but I think it looks good. I'll send you a pic. when they are on the loco. Seeing them should help answer any questions. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bman36

Hey All,
OK so I made my first decals. So far they look great. The printer did an exellent job with the decal paper. I made lettering for my Shay this time round. At this point they are printed and sealed with the enclosed decal spray. Need to wait a few days before I put them on since the paint I just sprayed needs a few days first. Plan on spraying over them with Testors Dullcote after they are applied. Will take some pics later when I am done. Later eh...Brian.

What color (colour?) did you print the text? Yellow or black on white?

[bman36]

Hey All,
OK so I made my first decals. So far they look great. The printer did an exellent job with the decal paper. I made lettering for my Shay this time round. At this point they are printed and sealed with the enclosed decal spray. Need to wait a few days before I put them on since the paint I just sprayed needs a few days first. Plan on spraying over them with Testors Dullcote after they are applied. Will take some pics later when I am done. Later eh...Brian.

[bman36]

jmozz,
Word Pro is meant to be used for text only. It is not intended for drawing. It does however have templates for different styles of text used in creating logos. For instance you could choose a template and type in "GARDEN RAILWAYS". Depending on which template you chose the words would appear bold, or curved, look 3D, have different colours from top to bottom etc. Hope this makes sense. It is great for creating a store front sign but that is it. If you want to draw try Paint Shop Pro. I think there may be a free version of this. If not then go to www.decalgear.com and order their decal software. It's not very expensive. Hope this helps. Later eh...Brian.

[jmozz]

brian can you explain alittle bit more on wordpro i have window 98 can i use notebook or notepad what ever its called how do you draw on wordpro
jmozz

[bman36]

Capt. C.,
WalMart here had refills on the decal paper. Have not had time to try mine out yet. Hope to this weekend. Too busy with work and heading out here and there. Let me know if you get a chance to print something. My new printer works great (2nd one). Colour is awesome. Decals should look good. Later eh...Brian.