Solder or weld replacement handrails??

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

Ah no problems, when your eyesight gets worse come back. Thats why I palnned ahead and pretrashed them by stairing at welding arcs. Oh well I can still see 1:87.1 and 1:20.3.

[wvg_ca]

ok..first of all apologies..my intended scale is HO...not too familiar with the forum as of yet, saw the scratchbuilding tag and thought 'kinda looks right' for my handrail question...

I looked at more photos in the last few day and some appear to have 'bells' but most look to have been just welded together, pipe to pipe butt joints..especially the newer era loco's..

So I went ahead and built myself a resistance or spot welding gizmo, only took about two hours total, and patched up my 'ugliest' ebay win... much more pleased with the final appearance than the remains of the plastic railing..

Yes, for my scale [HO], the 0.017 steel wire works fine, in some cases I noticed the upright on the handrail was larger, and I 'tested' 0.023 stainless welding [mig] wire to 0.017 rusty steel wire and results were just as firm, the wire normally breaks about 3/16" away from the weld, no breaks on the weld at all...[so far..:)]

Not sure what cost would be, just raided a junk box along with a variable power supply..

I also tested 0.045 stainless wire to see how large I could go, and a 'triple layer' weld is fine, in that the upright is bent over in a U shape and the handrail inserted into it..

thanks for the info, and again,

apologies for the wrong forum area..

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

"From what I've been able to find for closeup photos of the real units, there doesn't seem to be any major 'lump' at the joints between vertical and horizontal that you would get with soldering"

     On locos that came with them usualy, espically second generation and on. If it origionally had hood railing then the conversion was probablly a quick fix and is all messed up. some First generation locos had pipe castings that resemble soder joints.

 "I was considering using steel wire, like the stuff that is used for attaching paper tags to things, and then resistance or 'spot' welding them together...?"

That could work assuming you have a spot welder handy but what scale are you using?

 

[cabbage]

I use 1mm thick brass wire for mine. Normally I use CA or Epoxy to affix the stantions to it. I would never contemplate using stainless steel as the soldering problems with it are horrific and welding it is simply evil!!! I presume you mean Resistence Soldering rather than Welding(?) Stick to brass or plain galvanised steel...

regards

ralph

[toenailridgesl]

First off, welcome to the brilliant world of model trains!

Now, you're talking about wire for handrails....are you sure you're in the right forum? This is Garden Railways and for handrails we use brass that is a darn sight thicker than papertag wire! 

[wvg_ca]

Ok, first post...:)

anyways, I'm a newbie to this model railroad, girlfriend got me started last Christmas with a box, was OK for maybe a week, and then wanted more...

Wound up getting some pieces off ebay [and learning quite a bit in the process], and it seemed that many 'auction' locomotives have damaged or missing handrails, between usage, age, shipping, whatever the reason..

After looking around here, most recommendations are for brass wire stock and soldering, some even recommend buying stanchion packages and just soldering brass or copper wire on top..

From what I've been able to find for closeup photos of the real units, there doesn't seem to be any major 'lump' at the joints between vertical and horizontal that you would get with soldering unless you do a second solder wick pass to remove the excess...

I was considering using steel wire, like the stuff that is used for attaching paper tags to things, and then resistance or 'spot' welding them together...?

To my way of thinking, the steel wire in most cases doesn't need a great deal of paint, it's already almost black with surface rust, and would be a much stronger finished product after it's done..

For a nicer product stainless steel 'music' wire could be used, it's fairly inexpensive, readily available in many diameters, and 'should' be strong enough for normal usage..

The cost of aftermarket pieces is fairly reasonable, but most of what I have here doesn't need a full set..

My intention is to have a finished product that appears 'reasonably' correct, and is more 'regular use sturdy' than being 100% correct...

So, ideas or opinions??

thanks