Hi Phil
No sleet snow tornadoes or blizzards.
Just giants and monstrous creatures to deal with
We won't mention the builder, who has knocked it off the table twice fortunately before the roof went on
regards John
Have fun with your trains
Hi guys
Thread printed and Book ordered
The book Vic advised about I hope:
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Construction-Before-Mechanization-Fitchen/dp/0262061023
Enjoy.
Let me know if you need any thing.
Before I run this through the printer does any one have anything to add to the topic
To all thanks for the help and thoughts.
If you can get the loose tiles properly aligned, you might try putting some type of clear acrylic coating over the entire roof to seal everything instead of having to take it all off and starting over. I have seen products at local building supply houses for sealing concrete, wood, etc. that may be less work.
John Busby wrote: Hi guysThanks please pass the virtual tissues I think I need them.Oh! boy I do have a problem the roof will have to be re done by the sounds of things.But it explains why the first three rows of tiles stuck the best, yes self stick floor tilesweight cannot be put on the sub roof it is 9" of unsupported in the middle 1.6mm mm balsa which was done so it would give me a visually interesting wavy roof which it did nicely.It had a nice look to it's just failed to stick properly.Would running bondcrete at the back of the tile row before the next row is put on work?? the structure walls are foam core boardFoam core don't like the solvents in most of the caulk and silicon products.Any bright ideas for a temp support while I re-do the roofVic Are you able to provide more info on how the sheets of lead where joined and what was done at the ends to keep the water out.They did not have silicone roofing sealant at the time the building was supposed to be builtBut they knew how to do the lead work which is what I need to replicate with coffee tin seal foil.And I don't know how it was done, have not been able to find a book that will tell me.regards John
Thanks please pass the virtual tissues I think I need them.
Oh! boy I do have a problem the roof will have to be re done by the sounds of things.
But it explains why the first three rows of tiles stuck the best, yes self stick floor tiles
weight cannot be put on the sub roof it is 9" of unsupported in the middle 1.6mm mm balsa which was done so it would give me a visually interesting wavy roof which it did nicely.
It had a nice look to it's just failed to stick properly.
Would running bondcrete at the back of the tile row before the next row is put on work?? the structure walls are foam core board
Foam core don't like the solvents in most of the caulk and silicon products.
Any bright ideas for a temp support while I re-do the roof
Vic
Are you able to provide more info on how the sheets of lead where joined and what was done at the ends to keep the water out.
They did not have silicone roofing sealant at the time the building was supposed to be built
But they knew how to do the lead work which is what I need to replicate with coffee tin seal foil.
And I don't know how it was done, have not been able to find a book that will tell me.
If you can find it, theres a book called "Construction Before Mechanization" which cronicles Medeavil construction technics that were used right up to the 19th century.
In real buildings, lead roof sheet joints were often sealed with molten lead! poured into the gaps. or they were formed with interlocking lips that were hammered together to create a close to waterproof joint. End caps were preformed on the ground and then installed the same as the sheets. Remember this is a medeavil technology were talking about here. For a model, I would suggest Soft Aluminum sheets from KS Engineering here in the States, and try using regular soldier to sell edges or if you can find a product called Liquid Soldier which is similar to Liquid Nails, that dries like an aluminized adhesive caulking.
I was suggesting using silicon or epoxy as an adhesive to adhere the loose tiles to the backing, not as a caulking method.
Yes, that's it! It comes in 1/4" and 1/2" (6-7mm and 12-13mm) thickness here. The thinner sheets work well for building projects and cuts pretty well with a hand held carbide tipped cutter.
a close up of the pub window
-Brian
Hi altterrain
This particular building is being built for indoor only use.
The roof should be OK outside if I do it right ie no part of the roof with less than two thickness of tile on it and plenty of paint.
The walls will not last out side being foam core board.
"A pint of Guinness thanks" That is a nice looking pub.
This thread will get printed so your advice for out door roofs will be noted
Is hardibacker a fiber cement product?? if so we probably call it something else but at least I will know what I am looking for.
John,
I would use either a clear silicone or a product like GOOP to stick them on. I do have concern about the use of balsa outdoors. It does not have a good track record outdoors. I would suggest an exterior grade plywood, hardibacker tile board (what I use) or coroplast (corrugated polypropylene) since you are starting over.
Here is the roof of my pub using the hardibacker put together with liquid nails and covered with plastic veneers.
John
If you were using self adhesive floor type tiles, they need to be completely pressed flat against the floor so all the adhesive can contact the floor surface in order to get full adherence and so the adhesive can cure correctly. Putting them on at an angle where they are overlapping only gives a small 1/16 max strip of adhesive on two sides which when it cures will not have much holding capacity. I'm not surpised they came off. Best solution likely is to reattach them with a silicon or epoxy to hold them in place, good luck with it!
As for the ridge, tile can still leak, where a metal like lead could be "molded" so to speak to fit the roof solidly, giving a leak free ridge. Lead wad great for roofing, just not so great for the environment around the building with the roof, especially if there was a fire.
HELP!!! ARGH!
After spending two weeks doing a slate roof using self stick vinyl tiles to cut and stick individual 32mm x 16mm slates to a roof, laid as best I can to the proper way slates are laid.
I have discovered that they have not self stuck properly
Some very naughty words where said when I found out.
They where stuck to a sub roof of painted balsa and overlapped just like real slates.
Can anyone suggest what or where I went wrong, and how I can fix it without having to strip the roof and start again
Also what could be done next time to avoid the same problem
There are an awful lot of slates to redo if its back to square one
Once this is sorted does any one know how a Medieval lead ridge cap was done this would be the ideal ridge treatment for the building rather than ridge tiles
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