You can get them open, and I have done it frequently; but it's major surgery, modifies the switch permanently, and may not be necessary if you can oil it otherwise. You have to drill out all the rivets, including the riveted post under the frog. When you put it back together, you can drill and tap the frog for a flathead screw and replace the other rivets with screws. File the post down so that the frog is tight against the plastic when the screw is tightened, drill and tap the frog all the way through, and then use a short enough screw to come flush with the top, instead of trying to use a bottom tap. (For 5122s, there's a funny little rivet in the corner that needs a number-2 screw, installed from the bottom, with the nut in the channel between plastic ridges.)
Bob Nelson
Thanks guys. I didn’t need to take it apart (yet). I just put some oil and now I can turn the switch by hand with very little effort. I think now I have a power issue. When using the derail feature, the switch doesn’t move quick enough unless more than %50 of the transformer power is being used. I'm using a MRC Tech II transformer. This results in a switch that is in-between straight and turn when the train is going over, so the engine derails. Is there a way to route more power to the switch, or somehow clean wires to the motor so I can get more power to the switch to increase its response time? The engine didn't have any cars behind it so maybe if I add cars it will run slower and require more power so the switch will work better. Just wondering if I can improve the switch anymore before I decide its operating like it did from the factory, and add more cars to take care of the power issue.
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