Starting Out & Looking For Input

[Anonymous]

Hello all!

I have been reading as much as I could on this site for about 3 weeks now. The amount of information is absolutely staggering! Congratulations on keeping this place stocked up with so much valuable information!

I am very new to this hobby. Aside from some cheap HO toys from the late 70’s, I have virtually no experience with model trains. I decided that I would start off slow (money has final say over enthusiasm…) and ease my way into the fun.

Here is some background…

I have just purchased the Lionel Polar Express set. My reasons were that I liked the Berkshire engine that came with it, the set contents seemed to be reasonably well made and my nieces and nephews insisted that I buy the train from their favorite movie (sigh). I also reasoned that since the engine seemed to be a lot better than the other engines in this sets price range; I could use it for other purposes. The best part is, it will grace the underside of my tree for many years to come.

I have zero experience in building scenery and my artistic talents are just slightly lower than that of a caveman scrawling on a cave wall with a rock. So anything added to a layout will either have to be pre-made or will have to wait. This is fine by me as I want to concentrate on running the trains and gradually work out what I want the layout to look like.

As I said, I want to focus on running the trains and playing with switches, accessories and other assorted “bells and whistles” (come to think of it, this is the first time that phrase could take on a literal meaning…but I digress…).

FasTrack is an absolute must for me. It’s easy to use, I don’t have to build under it, it can be taken down and setup quickly (important since the area I’m working with cannot support a permanent layout) and it looks great. I already purchased some additional track sections (LH & RH 036 Manual switches (I think I saw you guys call them “turnouts”…), 10 sections of 10-inch straight and 2 030 curved sections). This gives me a large inner passing circle layout to start with (about 8’x4’).

The CW80 seems to do everything I need it to do. Eventually (but not now) I will probably look to upgrade to the TMCC but since I have one train and it doesn’t have any special features that the TMCC can unlock…it will remain a “sometime later” purchase.

After the tree is down, I will look to use a temporary layout made up of 3 sheets of plywood (2 3x5 and 1 4x5, with a foam underside for protection) on top of my pool table. I estimate that since it is a regulation size table, with just a little overhang I will have about 10’x5’ to work with. Stability of the table isn’t an issue since it is a regulation size Olehausen that weighs over 2,000 lbs.

Recreating &/or mimicking real-life trains or operations is not what I am interested in. I’m just looking to have fun with the trains and the gadgets. The only caveat is I like (no I LOVE) the look of steam engines and would like to keep the items in the 1910 to 1940 era.

OK, here are my questions (and please have fun with them!):

1) What should I use to cover the plywood?
2) What should I use to join the plywood (if I even need to…)?
3) What are your favorite 0-gauge trackside accessories?
4) What are your favorite 0-gauge operating accessories?
5) What are your favorite 0-gauge (“Traditional Size”) freight rolling stock?
6) What are your favorite 0-gauge (“Traditional Size”) operating cars?
7) What are your favorite on-line shopping sites?

Any and all feedback is appreciated! Thanks in advance for you help!

[Roger Bielen]

Welcome to the forum and the great hobby of trains.

Since you've already started with a conventional control set we'll leave discussion of command control systems to a later date.

Before setting the plywood you might want to decide if you want your wires running across the top or hidden underneath. If hidden, you could make up a frame , 2X4 or 1X? to hold the board up over the table and only cushion the contact areas of the frame. There are a number of options for a covering, some folks have used just the foam insulation board without plywood as the table. Two other options with the plywood are foam, or the fiber, insulation boards.

For joining. If you use the frame concept you could make your joints over the supports. There are also metal clips that are used when sheeting a roof with plywood.

With the enormous choice of accessories your best bet is to decide on a theme and try to find items that fit in, i.e. coal loaders, log dumps, loaders, etc.

As to rolling stock. What many do is select a favorite railroad and try to find cars for that line. A couple of the standard operating cars are: milk car; horse, or cattle, corral and cars; operating coal car, etc.. If you lean to the whimsical there are a number of fun cars out there. Go to a local train show, or hobby shop, and see what interests you.

For on line shopping I use the CTT advertisers for new items and hit eBay for older items. There are also other auction sites that I'm sure others will bring up.

When I got back into the hobby I found the most important source of info. and ideas were the mags. Do some reading, get back issues at the library, and become familiar with what can be done and how you want to proceed.

Again welcome to the "club" and please don't hesitate to ask questions as you get further into things.

[mpzpw3]

Wow! Welcome!! Glad that you are enjoying your trains! Scenery is one of my favorite parts of the hobby, but by no means the most important. I would like to put some input into the questions you asked.
1. You can just paint the plywood if you want. Felt in the color of your preference is another alternative. Indoor-outdoor carpeting also works, and quiets the noise level.
2. You should probably use fasteners to join the plywood, due to vibration. I would suggest some "clasp locks", such as used on a dining room table, to hold them together.
3. The Lionel gantry crane is pretty neat. The icing station, barrel loader, milk and cattle cars are fun accessories, but require the "the human hand" to reset them. I've found that lighted accessories such as stations, buildings, street lamps and floodlight towers really enhance a layout, and require little work to get going.
4. Same as 3.
5. They are all good. All the manufactures make them, and they are well painted. For awhile Lionel wasn't painting their versions, which look kinda cheesy, but all current production items look pretty good.
6. Depends on what you want to do. Most operating cars require the operator to reload them. A modern or postwar horse car is a great "hands-off" operating car.
7. Charles Ro., Ma&Pa junction, Trainworld, etc. There are many on-line dealers, and have never had a problem with any of them. Pick up a toy train magazine, and find what interests you. The more you read, the better informed you are.

[pbjwilson]

Welcome aboard Wolvie.

I'm just going to hop right in with a few random thoughts.

I like multiple trains running on seperate loops at the same time. So around your track set-up that you have now you could run a seperate loop around the perimeter of your table.

Must have accessories in my opinion - Automatic gateman, crossing gates(the more the better),Milk car and platform, Rotating beacon, some sort of bridge even if its flat on the train table.


This is what it looks like when the kids and I run trains.

Cars I love - any aquarium cars, satalite launcher.T.V. and Radar cars, operating poultry car w/Foghorn Leghorn, Bobbing girrafe, rhino, etc. cars.

Another fun thing to put on a layout are the trolleycars that reverse direction when they hit a bumper. All you need is a long straight section of track with bumpers at either end.

A simple thing to use to cover your plywood is some indoor/outdoor carpeting.
Simple premade styrofoam tunnels, and premade trees add alot without getting into scenery made from plaster and other messy stuff.

Above all buy, collect, and run the stuff you like. Everyone has there own opinions and preferences. Good-luck and keep us posted.

[Anonymous]

Welcome to the forum Wolvie! I also suggest that you build up the plywood base with some type of joist system, this would keep the wires under the layout and you could use them to connect the plywood together. Since you are going to place this on a pool table I assume you would want to be able to lift it off when not in use? I had the same type of idea for a garage layout and made my table as light as possible to be leaned against a wall, well that happened only once, and now it is too large to move, so be forewarned! Use something as light as possible like 2x3’s spaced 2’ apart, maybe ½” plywood and then you would definitely want to top that off with a sound deadening material as FasTrack can be a little loud directly on plywood. ½” hi density foam board works well for the top layer, accepts latex paint well and is pretty light. Cap the perimeter with a 1x4 and two people should still be able to pick it up. Have fun!

[IronHoarse]

Welcome to the forum and the hobby. All good information listed above so I will not repeat it. One other online source is Justrains. Enjoy!

[Buckeye Riveter]

[#welcome] to the CTT forum.

First I want to make two assumptions:

1. You don't want to do any type of damage to the pool table. (I know I wouldn't)
2. Sometime you want to move the train board so you can play pool.

Okay, with those two things in mind, I would suggest you look at what I call, bed slat benchwork, with the mattres being 2" foam. In the back of the book, Model Railroad Benchwork by Lynn Wescott, there is a complete description of the system.

This system would have the folowing advantages.
1. You could play pool
2. Easily padded not to damage table.
3. Wires can be duct tapped to the bottom of the foam.
4. The layout could overhang the pool table.
5. In the future legs could be added.
6. It could be designed as "twin" beds such that it could store easier.

My favorite trackside accessories, the Burning Switch Tower and the Musical Hobo Tower by Lionel.

[dwiemer]

Hello, and welcome[#welcome]
I agree with all of the above. Certainly make sure you protect that pool table. A article of interest for you would be the one on Maj. Bolton, he is in the military and on this forum and currently in Iraq. This article was in Classic Toy Trains a few months ago, October I think. Anyway, it shows his layout and gives great insight to what can be done with fastrack and also great scenery without the artistic touch. Again, I agree with what is listed above and I also think that you have made the right steps by being a part of this community. They will answer all questions. I would also read Classic Toy Trains as they have many interesting articles and you can get a feel for what is out there and how to advance in the hobby. One last thing, I would stay away from the coal loaders etc. while your layout stays on the pool table as the coal gets everywhere and may cause problems with the pool table.
Good Luck,
Dennis

[1688torpedo]

Hello Wolvie! & [#welcome] To the CTT Forum. What part of the Country do you reside in? The reason for asking is that a Forum member may live nearby you and can accompany you to Train Shops and shows with advice & help. This would be another way for you to get help and to steer clear of unscruppolous Folks who may want to make a big buck off of you. For Starter's Here are some Train Shops for your consideration: The Trading Post; 4394 Pearl Rd. Cleveland,Oh Phone# [phone]. They have Lionel (Postwar & Modern) plus a few prewar trains and he sells below MSRP Too! The Next recommendation is Joseph Grzyboski's Train Shop at 430 Lackawanna Ave in Scranton,Pa and his Phone# is1-570-347-3314. His store is stocked from floor to ceiling with Trains and he has Postwar & Modern Lionel.Plus, MTH. Some K-Line and plenty of other Toy Train Items in stock. Both of these places are Friendly and Helpful.You simply cannot go wrong doing business with either shop.What to buy? Well,You'll most likely get plenty of Ideas from your Nieces & Nephews.Just visit your friendly neighborhood train shop and see what they and you like and if its within your budget.There are plenty of photo's on this forum to give you ideas as to what kind of layout to build and plenty of folks to help you out and steer you in the right direction. Hope this helps you out.Take Care.

[Anonymous]

Wow!

Great feedback so far! Given what I’ve been reading here over the last few weeks I can’t say that I’m surprised.

One of the issues that have been brought up is concerning the protection of the pool table. This is not an issue as I have custom hardtop cover that makes it double as a table. With the hardtop in place, I can literally do light carpentry on it with no ill effects.

I know a bit about wiring (I have done work as a sound engineer and setup outdoor, indoor, automotive and home/studio sound systems) so I will be hiding all of the wires underneath the plywood. Any powered accessories will be fitted with quick-release connectors so they can be moved without compromising the wire routing.

Noise with the FasTrack is not an issue for me. My den area is downstairs and I own my home. If the wife has been able to deal with my pro surround sound system, my poker games and my pool games, the sound of the trains will be quiet in comparison! Besides, I built her a music room in one of the bedrooms so she can play her guitars with the amps cranked up.

I will look into the indoor/outdoor carpeting along with some of the foam board options for the plywood. The reason I want a cover as opposed to paint is that I believe it will be easier to keep clean (from both a physical and aesthetic standpoint). Have a special head attachment for my vacuum cleaner that I use to clean the pool table felt and a cover will make it easier to hide wires. Not to mention the lack of splinters associated with plywood sheets…

Thanks for mentioning Island Trains and confirming my suspicions. I live on Staten Island and have been to that place at least 10 times this month! Great staff and great prices. I’ve noticed that their in-store prices are not much different than their website prices. Which is to say, their store prices are actually cheaper than many of the websites I’ve visited.

Looking at the various websites and Ebay, I am still experiencing information overload. There is just so much that it makes it difficult to focus on what you want to do. This was the reason for the original questions I posted here. When I see what the experts are saying about specific items, it makes it easier for me to focus my search and research on those items. Then, once I’ve narrowed down the list to “good” items that I can afford, finding the right deal is easy.

So, basically, given my original questions, think about if you had to start over and begin buying your favorite cars/accessories/etc. all over again. I intend to learn all I can from your past experiences on what is fun, what is hype and what is to be avoided. No reason for me to repeat any mistakes that could be avoided by listening to the experts…because I sure am going to make enough of my own!

Thanks again for contributing to my MRR education and please keep the comments coming!

[Anonymous]

Seriously consider a control system before making any other engine purchases. I purchased a Lionel starter set (without TMCC) and thought that if I did get more involved I would just run a conventional layout. WRONG! When I started learning more about DCS and TMCC I had to have it. Then regretted spending the money on the first non-command set.
Since that first Lionel set I purchased about this time last year I have added another MTH starter set with a PS2 command engine and 3 other PS2 engines and of course a DCS system to run them. That little Lionel starter set engine is now sitting on a shelf.

[fwright]

Wolvie

I would second what Buckeye Rivieter said about foam instead of plywood. Before foam was well known, I built my 4x8 table with 1/2 inch plywood. Used 1x4 and 1x3 for framing. Takes two strong people to carry, doesn't store anywhere, and too big for movers to handle. While the last might not apply to you, at some point you are going to want to move it off your pool table base.

My under the tree layout (4ft x 5ft) uses a 1x3 wood frame with 1.5 inch thick foam glued inside. Very nice, light, easy to handle. I glued a layer of 1/4 inch plywood on top of the foam to hold the track and accessory screws. I would suggest this type of framework, built in at least 2 sections for your situation.

I use green indoor-outdoor carpet on top of the plywood for the tinplate scenery effect. If you use the coal loading/unloading accessories, the carpet helps keep the coal on the table. I perform periodic vacuuming with a screen of ladies hose over the nozzle for recycling coal and other lost items.

If you are into operating accessories like I am, keep in mind that most require some degree of operator intervention - reloading, resetting, shifting the operating car position slightly, uncoupling at the right spot, etc. This is made easier if the accessories are on the edges of the layout and not in the middle. For this reason, my track plans have spurs and accessory sidings outside the "running" loops of track.

I use a combination of some of the already named dealers, train shows, and very occasional eBay to get what I want at reasonable prices.

my 2 cents - have fun!

yours in training
Fred

[poppyl]

Welcome to the forum. I bet you are on information overload now. for what's it's worth, here are a couple of suggestions about your platform. Homasote is a good sound deadening material but it is heavy and would add a significant amount of weight to your "portable" layout. To keep your weight down, I would recommend foam over your base material. Most of us use plywood for our bases but you can also construct a modular layout using hollow core doors found at any home center as your base. These are fairly light, are easily moved, and you can expand your layout easily in the future by adding more doors. However, since the doors are hollow core, they will reflect sound like a durm so you have to put foam on them for noise deadening. FYI -- CTT ran a series of articles on a layout using three doors as its base a while back. It may be on their list of downloadable pdf's.

Poppyl

[1688torpedo]

Hello Wolvie! Here is another thing to consider. When at a Train Shop or Show; If you happen to see a Engine Or Freight car in it's Original Box and you want to buy it. Ask the seller to open the Box for you.That Way. If the flap rips off the box, You will not get in trouble of ripping the box as the cardboard they are made from becomes fragile with age and can rip very easily after many years.And when Handling Steam Engines with Thin handrails. Pick them up at both ends.Do not grab them in the middle as the handrails can bend out of shape and the seller/owner will not be very happy with this.In a word,Just be very careful. Most collector's are very nice folks and after you get to know them.You'll be just fine.Some are just more sensitive than other's as to how a Train should be handled or not.Just be aware of this and proceed accordingly. Take Care.

[poppyl]

Here are some suggestions. First, get your starter set up and running so you can have some fun! Next, spend some time doing research on different kinds of operations, layout planning including future expansion options, construction, and wiring including command and control. Think things through before you rush off to do something that you may regret later. Once you have that process underway you can begin to focus on track and switches, power sources, locos and rolling stock . Again, do your research to see what fits your desires and perhaps more importantly, your budget. There are two things in O gauge that we never have enough of -- space and money. This may seem like an overwhelming task but you will be amazed at what you can accomplish with a little self-learning, research, and organization.

Good luck in your efforts and remember that we are here to help you with this.

Poppyl

[Anonymous]

Well, quick update…

I just won 2 bids on ebay for both the Lionel Pennsylvania Flyer and the NYC Flyer Expansion sets. I got the both of them for less than $90 with shipping included! Needless to say, I’m pretty happy right now. I think that they will help in getting me started with my collection.

After the holidays, I’ll be headed to Home Depot/Lowes for the plywood and the foam as you mentioned here in this thread. I’ll also look at some cheap indoor/outdoor carpeting for the cover.

As always, I’ll keep you all posted and I’ll be sure to inquire before I commit to any big purchases. Please post any information/opinions that you believe will be helpful. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the help from all of you here!

[Jumijo]

Someone was running the NYC Fler passenger expansion pack cars behind a small hudson at a show I was at this weekend. Nice looking outfit.

Jim

[Anonymous]

I did some searching on the subject…but alas I could not find it referenced here…

So, here goes:

Just how long is it safe to run Lionel trains in a single session?

My Polar Express is currently running laps around the Christmas Tree and I’m curious if there is a minimum, maximum and recommended time the train should be run in a continuous session. A quick search here and on the Lionel site did not reveal any answer to this.

[fwright]

Heat is the killer of toy trains. Whether it comes from friction or electrical, anytime a part gets pretty hot to the touch is an indication something is wrong and/or damage is likely to occur soon.

After your train has been running a while, check around the engine by the motor, and by the center rail roller pickups. Check your transformer. If all temps are reasonable, keep on railroading! Sooner or later, however, your engine will need disassembly and lubrication. The guys I know who run display layouts for hours on end swear by transmission fluid for gears and wheel bearings. A lighter oil is required for the motor bearings on old style motors - I believe can motors have sealed bearings with no lube possible.

Hope this helps

Fred Wright

[Anonymous]

Thanks Fred.

I'll keep an eye on it. I never noticed any parts of the train getting more than just "warm" to the touch including the transformer. This was even after an hour or so of constant running.

I think after the holidays, I'll bring the engine into my local train shop and have them show me exactly what I should be doing for maintenance. The over-simplified picture that came with the train mentions nothing about the motor bearings as you did so it's probably best to have one of the pros walk me through it.

Thanks again!

[cnw1995]

Wolvie, welcome!!! I would echo what some of the guys mentioned - set up the track and run the trains - then think about any track configuration changes you'd like to make - finally, think about what sort of action in the accessories you'd like - and enjoy researching them a bit more.

[Anonymous]

Welcome to a great branch of the hobby!!
All great suggestions from everyone. One thing to remember, don't get all caught up in the glamor part. Buy what appeals to you and what you will enjoy. Running the trains is the best therapy for anything that ails you!
Stay away from accessories that use very small bits, eg aformentioned coal loaders and the like. The best investment for me was Greenberg's Manual for Lionel trains. It has so much information on my postwar trains and it makes a good read and invaluable reference guide.
It is nice to hear about so many either just entering the hobby or renewing their interests.

On layout stuff, I am using 5/8" plywood and I am utilizing white and pink foam-board for creating scenery and for under the trackwork.

[Anonymous]

Hello Gents!

Well, quick update…

I just built a nice 4x8 layout board with folding legs. I used 1/2” plywood on the bottom, 1/2” Homasote in the middle and 1/2” foam on top. I used spray adhesive to join all the layers together and installed 2 sets of folding legs and topped it with a velvet-type green cover. With the use 3” foam around the edges on the bottom, I can fold the legs and rest it on the pool table hard-top cover. Right now, it’s standing on it’s own in the living room with a nice Christmas display.

In addition to the Polar Express Set, I also now have the following:

Both the PE Diner & Baggage Car
Additional FasTrack to create a large inner-passing loop
K-Line animated Christmas Display
Lighted Church
Lighted Toy Store with animated flashing sign
Lighted Cotton’s Candy Store
UPS loading station (like the Ice Station with packages) with Box Car
Both the NYC & Penn Flyer expansion sets (BOTH for a total of $97 brand new on eBay)
Lionel Erie Hudson w/tender & caboose ($96 brand new on eBay)

I used a hot glue gun to install small pins in the corners of the buildings so they set nicely into the table but are not permanent. Wiring was very easy since I have a background in that and all of the wires are neatly run on the underside and exit the side.

What I am now looking for:
A nice trolley w/bump & go to run independent around the perimeter
An operating Water Tower
A trestle set (maybe with a bridge) to run an elevated line (haven’t decided if it will be connected or independent).
A bunch of FasTrack layout ideas (I’ve been searching the internet but haven’t found all that many except on “Thor’s” site)

Eventually, I will build another 4x8 board to mount in an “L” shape off the first one and I’ll probably look into getting the TMCC system and s-l-o-w-l-y start moving into command systems. BTW, do you guys know if it is possible to upgrade the 2 engines I have to run in command mode? If so, then what is the going cost for such a conversion?

As always, I look forward to any input, suggestions and opinions you may have. I am learning a lot from all of you!

[Anonymous]

Look no further than CTT they have and are running tons of ideas for the fasttrack system. Buy the mags or get a subscription for the greatest insight to Toy Train ownership. There are also many layout books available, you might have to adapt some designs to use the fasttrack, but it is only track, put it where and how you like and move some of it around until it does what you want. If you just like to see the trains running then create two, three or even four loops that intersect with a passing siding or two.
If you want some operation, then create some branches off the single main line for switching and use your idea of a trolley to service the industries and a town, Bump to Bump.
Above all have fun doing it!

[Anonymous]

OK, time to hit up the experts for some more advice.

I want to run 2 trains on 2 tracks with one transformer. One will be the regular train and one will be an independent, short, point-to-point trolley.

I have the CW-80 transformer that came with my set.

First question: Is this a good idea?

If so then Second question: Can I run a pair of rheostats from the transformer and to each independent track line so I can just leave the transformer on “High” and just adjust the voltage to each track?

If so, then Third Question: Do any of you have a favorite model of rheostat that you would suggest using for this application?

[Anonymous]

As regards rheostats for adjusting track voltage--- a better solution is a Cab 1 hand-held remote linked with a TPC or Powermaster and transformer; that can easily do that for you. You can then run Conventional engines on Track #1 or Track #2 simply by adressing TR 1 or TR 2 on the Cab 1 and adjust speed with its red throttle knob.

Then if you acquire some TMCC engines all you need to also run in command is addition of the Command Base.

I read somewhere in a post that the average TMCC/RS conversion is about $230 without speed control.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Leonard, but I was looking for an inexpensive way out of this.

The cost of the TMCC is really quite prohibitive for me right now after the holidays. The way I understand it is I will need a CAB-1 and Command Base ($99 for the pair), a track Power Controller ($100 each – don’t I need 1 for each track?) and I believe that I can use the CW-80 for power…but if I can’t, then I need at least one 180 watt PowerHouse ($68).

So while I understand that it is a MUCH better solution, to go TMCC will cost me at best $200 and at worst, $367. Way too much for me to spend right now…especially if I can get the desired results with a couple of $5 to $10 rheostats. But I need to know if that can be done first from you guys…

[pbjwilson]

Wolvie,
If all you want to do is run a trolley on the second track, pick up a cheapo transformer at a hobby shop. I think the trolleys can even run on DC. I have a few transformers that I got used for under $10. Keep it simple.

Just remembered. I ran a trolley back and forth on a shelf in my sons room. I used a DC transformer from a Bachmann N gauge set. The Lionel trolleys draw very little current.

Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

I read all your posts and I am confused regarding your objectives, when you mentioned rheostats I thought you wanted to run Conventional not TMCC---you don't need a Command Base to run conventional from Cab 1 with a PowerMaster or TPC.
With only a small 80 watt transformer I believe you have a major heat-related efficiency loss with a continous full throttle transformer and a pair of rheostats.
Good luck and happy railroading[:)].

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Leonard

I read all your posts and I am confused regarding your objectives, when you mentioned rheostats I thought you wanted to run Conventional not TMCC---you don't need a Command Base to run conventional from Cab 1 with a PowerMaster or TPC.

OK...Now, I'm confused...

QUOTE: From the Lionel Website:
Operating conventional locomotives from your CAB-1 Remote Controller is very simple. Forget about rewiring your trains or spending the day making track connections—installing TrainMaster Command Control is much easier than that!

What you need
You need these three basic components, available from your Authorized Lionel Dealer:
• Choose one: PowerHouse Power Supply (6-22983) OR another
18-volt transformer with a Power Adapter Cable (6-12893)
• Choose one: PowerMaster (6-12867), TMCC Track Power Controller 300 (6-14189), OR TMCC Track Power Controller 400 (6-14179)
•TMCC Command Base (for use with the TPC's, 6-12911)
• CAB-1 Remote Controller (6-12868)

QUOTE: With only a small 80 watt transformer I believe you have a major heat-related efficiency loss with a continous full throttle transformer and a pair of rheostats.
Good luck and happy railroading[:)].

OK, this makes sense. Thank you.