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Broken truck on pinned car?

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Posted by Boyd on Sunday, January 11, 2015 3:54 PM

Drill into the rivet from an angle with 1/8 to 3/16 bit. It will still spin but it will eventually wear away the edges so it comes out. 

Modeling the "Fargo Area Rapid Transit" in O scale 3 rail.

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Posted by Papa_D on Sunday, January 11, 2015 11:52 AM

 

I've found there is no one best method to removing a metal rivet.  If there is enough play in the rivet, I grab the rivet head with a small pair of vise lock pliers and drill the crimp end out.  I’ve not had much success drilling otherwise. 
The other approach I use is a Dremel grinding ball.  It takes about 5 minutes to grind out the crimp end.
Some types of rolling stock are easier than others. Hoppers are about the most difficult because of the inside recess.  Interesting to note some hoppers have the crimp on the inside,
while others have the crimp on the truck side.
Finally some MPC hoppers used a eyelet rivet (just a hollow tube with a formed head) which should be relatively easy to remove, although I haven’t had to do so.
Papa D

 

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Posted by sir james I on Sunday, January 11, 2015 8:54 AM
I remove the rivet with a Dremel cut off disc. From the top if assessable. Cut a + into it until it is weak enough to snap off.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

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Posted by cwburfle on Sunday, January 11, 2015 5:04 AM

The Brakeman's Riveter outfit makes two different sized anvils with a toothed top that is supposed to stop the rivet from spinning. I have them, and have had mixed results using them.

I also have a pair of end nippers with the head ground down to fit inside the truck bolster. They work, but leave marks in the truck (but they are not visible when the car is on the track).

Sometimes I just destroy the part I do not want to keep, so I can get a large pair of nippers or a cut off wheel on the body of the rivet.

The serrated anvils were sold by American Flyer as one of their service tools. I believe it was for changing trucks when they came out with knuckle couplers somewhere around 1953.

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Posted by Michael6268 on Saturday, January 10, 2015 10:48 PM

My question is how do you get those pins out? You try to drill it out and they just spin...

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Posted by Boyd on Saturday, January 10, 2015 12:17 AM

Well I guess I'll just be installing #8 3/4" long bolt with a nylock nut. When I install them I turn them in tight then turn back out about 1/2 turn. 

Modeling the "Fargo Area Rapid Transit" in O scale 3 rail.

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Posted by Papa_D on Thursday, January 8, 2015 7:58 PM

The problem with the 9700-20 plastic snap rivet is it only loosely holds the trucks on. The tubular rivet is too big to be clinched using the brakeman which works best with thin eyelet rivets. The easiest method to attach the truck is a 8-32 screw with locking nut. Hope this helps.

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Posted by cwburfle on Thursday, January 8, 2015 1:43 PM

Trainz and Smitty have them listed as 9700-20. So does S&W.

600-9700-025 is a self threading flathead screw 4-40 x 1/4". It looks like the screw that holds the shell on a 6464 boxcar.

6SP-9700-025 is a plastic rivet.

There may be a difference between the two plastic rivets. Perhaps the length of the body.

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Posted by rtraincollector on Thursday, January 8, 2015 11:43 AM

Jeff kane has them for $0.25 each and his shipping is way cheaper than lionel www.ttender.com he has them listed as 9700-20 thou 

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Posted by sulafool on Thursday, January 8, 2015 11:03 AM
plastic rivet is 9700-25, according to Lionel. 30 cents per, from them
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Posted by sir james I on Thursday, January 8, 2015 9:15 AM

I have rivets but never use them. The plastic snap-ins or the nut and bolt approach works fine for me.

"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks 

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Posted by cwburfle on Thursday, January 8, 2015 4:47 AM

Last time I looked to purchase some of those MPC plastic snap in rivets, they were still available.  The part number is 9700-20. Trainz has them in stock @ $1.47 for three pieces.

I suppose a metal rivet could also be set with a Brakeman's riveter outfit. They are less expensive than an arbor (rivet) press outfit.

http://www.rivetin.com/index.html

 

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Posted by Papa_D on Wednesday, January 7, 2015 5:23 PM

Replacing the rivet with a like rivet requires an arbor press and clinching & anvil tools. I'm in the process of developing this capability to replace the plastic snap rivets used on the MPC 2 bay hoppers. It takes some practice to make a good looking rivet. 

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Broken truck on pinned car?
Posted by Boyd on Wednesday, January 7, 2015 12:51 PM
I have a newer Lionel Alaska RR 16214/16487 silver hopper car. One truck is broken. The pivot pin is pressed in. Is there a way I can replace that pin with a correct one if I was to sell this car, or do I need special tools? Otherwise I could install a 3/4" #8 bolt like I did with all of my CN 9013 cars. Anyone know what the book value is of this car and a 26826 searchlight car as I don't have an up to date price book.

Modeling the "Fargo Area Rapid Transit" in O scale 3 rail.

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