Modeling the "Fargo Area Rapid Transit" in O scale 3 rail.
Replacing the rivet with a like rivet requires an arbor press and clinching & anvil tools. I'm in the process of developing this capability to replace the plastic snap rivets used on the MPC 2 bay hoppers. It takes some practice to make a good looking rivet.
Last time I looked to purchase some of those MPC plastic snap in rivets, they were still available. The part number is 9700-20. Trainz has them in stock @ $1.47 for three pieces.
I suppose a metal rivet could also be set with a Brakeman's riveter outfit. They are less expensive than an arbor (rivet) press outfit. http://www.rivetin.com/index.html
I have rivets but never use them. The plastic snap-ins or the nut and bolt approach works fine for me.
"IT's GOOD TO BE THE KING",by Mel Brooks
Charter Member- Tardis Train Crew (TTC) - Detroit3railers- Detroit Historical society Glancy Modular trains- Charter member BTTS
Jeff kane has them for $0.25 each and his shipping is way cheaper than lionel www.ttender.com he has them listed as 9700-20 thou
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
Trainz and Smitty have them listed as 9700-20. So does S&W.
600-9700-025 is a self threading flathead screw 4-40 x 1/4". It looks like the screw that holds the shell on a 6464 boxcar.
6SP-9700-025 is a plastic rivet.
There may be a difference between the two plastic rivets. Perhaps the length of the body.
The problem with the 9700-20 plastic snap rivet is it only loosely holds the trucks on. The tubular rivet is too big to be clinched using the brakeman which works best with thin eyelet rivets. The easiest method to attach the truck is a 8-32 screw with locking nut. Hope this helps.
Well I guess I'll just be installing #8 3/4" long bolt with a nylock nut. When I install them I turn them in tight then turn back out about 1/2 turn.
My question is how do you get those pins out? You try to drill it out and they just spin...
The Brakeman's Riveter outfit makes two different sized anvils with a toothed top that is supposed to stop the rivet from spinning. I have them, and have had mixed results using them.
I also have a pair of end nippers with the head ground down to fit inside the truck bolster. They work, but leave marks in the truck (but they are not visible when the car is on the track).
Sometimes I just destroy the part I do not want to keep, so I can get a large pair of nippers or a cut off wheel on the body of the rivet.
The serrated anvils were sold by American Flyer as one of their service tools. I believe it was for changing trucks when they came out with knuckle couplers somewhere around 1953.
Drill into the rivet from an angle with 1/8 to 3/16 bit. It will still spin but it will eventually wear away the edges so it comes out.
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