FINISHED Flyer 577 Billboard Project

[Anonymous]

Guys,

          Thanks for the compliments on this one.

[richhotrain]

Jim,

That is absolutely fabulous!

I am totally impressed with the workmanship exhibited in those photos.

Great job!

Rich

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Jim-

Really nice!  Great detail work on removing the paint from the rivets.  Looks like new.

Jim

[Demay]

It has got to feel awesome to bring something back to its original glory...great job. And thanks for posting your progress and photos so inexperienced folks like me can learn. Joe

[Anonymous]

Tim,

         Thanks.

[Timboy]

 

[Anonymous]

I got the sign in the mail today, and I just got everything back together.  Here are the results.

 Here is the base after I got it back into shape.

[lionelsoni]

Something like that happened to me when I had my 1962 Volvo repainted some years ago after an engine fire.  They put masking tape over the number plate when they painted under the hood.  It took off the lettering that said that the car was made in England.

[Anonymous]

Rich,

         I'd say at least 95% came off with the tape. 

Jim,

        I just picked up a repro on ebay for $6.  

Tim,

       Thanks, I'll check it out.

 

When I get the sign, I'll scan it so that it will be on my PC in case anyone needs one.   

[Timboy]

 

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Bummer the sign looked real nice too.  Repro's ~$5.  I am going to remember from your misfortune to put down a piece of paper over the sign face before taping off the sign.  Thanks for sharing.

If you get overspray on the rubber feet a black sharpie will take care of it.

Jim

[richhotrain]

green97probe

I got the green down last night, and I removed the masking tape a few minutes ago.  Unfortunately, the sign came with it.

NO !!!

Say it ain't so.

Jim, when you say the sign came with it, does that mean it is destroyed?

Rich

[Anonymous]

I got the green down last night, and I removed the masking tape a few minutes ago.  Unfortunately, the sign came with it.

[Anonymous]

Jim,

        Thanks again.  I removed the whistle from the base at the start to make cleaning and masking the feet and light sockets easier.

[Sturgeon-Phish]

The blue painters tape works real good.  For the whistle part if you seperated the base, use aluminum foil and wrap it around the whistle and motor then finish off with the masking tape.  The green over the white covers better than the white over the green.  Looking forward to seeing your!

Jim

[Timboy]

 

[Anonymous]

Jim,

       Your tip about spraying everything white instead of having to mask twice seems to be working great so far.  It definitely made things easier.

I got the white down, but I had to stop and fix a small run.  I was going to just leave it, but it would've bothered me until I fixed it.  Now, I am waiting to mask and start the green.

[Anonymous]

Rich,

         Because I wanted to try and keep the sign intact,  I didn't use any converter or filler on the rust.  I just knocked it down as much as possible and sprayed primer over it.  I have been taking photos, but I am waiting to post them all at one time.

[richhotrain]

green97probe

I have just finished putting the first coat of primer down.  I used 60 and 400 grit paper and a steel wire wheel in the Dremel to get as much of the old paint and rust off as possible.  The rusted areas were a challenge because the rust was into the metal and not just on the surface. 

Jim,

I can remember, as a teenager, working on our old 1951 Chevy that my Dad gave to me when my parents bought a new 1960 Chevrolet.  The fenders were all rusting out and the metal was definitely affected.  In those days, there wasn't a lot available to the consumer to repaire rusted metal.  Nowadays, I assume that there are a lot of high tech products available for this purpose.  What did you use for this purpose?  I hope that you are taking photos to document this restoration project.

Rich

[Anonymous]

I have just finished putting the first coat of primer down.  I used 60 and 400 grit paper and a steel wire wheel in the Dremel to get as much of the old paint and rust off as possible.  The rusted areas were a challenge because the rust was into the metal and not just on the surface. 

[Anonymous]

Jim,

       Thanks for the info.  I remember you telling me about your drying booth and how you got the lights from discarded exit signs.

After some digging through my bins and some cleaning, here is the result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irEmGxgx-SQ

 

[Sturgeon-Phish]

The paint is Valspar Summer Leaf 65082.  It is semi-gloss but looks good.

Did I ever post pics of my drying booth?

As soon as I get the face on I'll post pics.

Jim

[Anonymous]

Rich,

        Unfortunately, the sign is glued to the panel.  With my luck, it wouldn't come off in one piece.

[richhotrain]

green97probe

Jim,

        I have the dents almost gone at the moment.  That was Valspar Spring Leaf that you use for this green, correct?  I need to go to Lowes to get the paint and supplies.  I am going to attempt to cover the sign with that green masking tape that is sold in auto parts stores.  Hopefully, it won't pull it off.  I can't wait to see your 762.

Jim,

Is there any way to temporarily remove the sign so you don't have to mask it, then replace it in the frame once the painting is done?

Rich

[Anonymous]

Jim,

        I have the dents almost gone at the moment.  That was Valspar Spring Leaf that you use for this green, correct?  I need to go to Lowes to get the paint and supplies.  I am going to attempt to cover the sign with that green masking tape that is sold in auto parts stores.  Hopefully, it won't pull it off.  I can't wait to see your 762.

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Jim

I am waiting on the billboard front for the 762 I got a couple of weeks ago.  I did not drill out the rivits.  I seperated the top from the bottom by straightening the four tabs, stripped off the paint primed and painted everthing white, masked off the billboard then painted it green.  Turned out pretty nice.

As Tim said, the base would straighten out.  Mine a a smaller ding and I was able to shape it out.  With $8 in it experiment!!!

Good luck

Jim

[richhotrain]

I think this would be a relatively easy restoration project and have done same many times. I don't think you would have to drill out any rivets at all. Simply bend it back into shape using gentle brute force, sand down the bad areas - carefully and repaint - carefully. I presume this piece is for an operating layout and not as a shelf queen because otherwise that would beg the question; what were you thinking when you bought it? My experience is; do the best you can to restore it and then place it on your layout. You would be surprised at how some "glaring" problems on the restoration bench suddenly recede to virtually unnoticeable when it is placed - in context - on a layout. OBTW; well-placed lichen, painted figures, trees, etc. can hide a multitude of sins. Also, consider this; REAL railroads have dilapidated crap all over the place. Increasingly, I am becoming a lot less fussy with the items I place on my RR because I have found that the rusted, patina-ridden things that any self-respecting collector would turn their pretty little nose up at, adds character and realism to my hokey little RR.

Rich

[8ntruck]

 How was it damaged?  By the way it is bent, I'd guess it might have been stepped on or tripped over.

[Anonymous]

Tim,

       Trust me, you aren't the first person to ask me what I was thinking when I bought something.  I have The Ringling Bros. version, and I always wanted this version to go with it.  The fact that it needs restored is another plus to me.  I only have $7.95 in it so far, so I can't complain there.  I want to get it back as close to factory new as I can, and I'll put it right into service once the restoration is done.