I just got this 577 in the mail today. Aside from the rust and slight bend in the top of the sign panel, it doesn't look that bad. Even the sign is clean and bright.
However, when I looked closer, something just didn't look right...
No, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. The base is severely bent, and the sign panel is also bent and a bit loose.
I am not sure what to do right now. If it wasn't for the eight rivets holding everything together and the green paint being in nice shape, I wouldn't hesitate to tear it down completely and do a full restoration. Any thoughts?
Jim,
I think the first question that I would have is, does the whistle work?
If it does, you are half-way home.
The busted base at the front end is a real bummer. How do you go about restoring it? Being a metal base, I suppose you attack the problem as you would on an automobile.
There is a small dilemma here because a good part of the base is in nice shape and the green paint looks pretty good, as does the sign itself. But the white frame looks pretty shabby. So, since you would need to repair the metal base and repaint the white frame, I would go all the way and repaint the green base as well. In other words, a complete restoration. If you do, post some photos so we can see the results.
I hope that whistle works.
Rich
Alton Junction
If it were mine, it would be on the workbench right now. I'm sure that you can drill out the rivits without doing serious damage to the rest of it. And pop-rivit tools are avaiable at any big-box hardware store.
But the real question is: does it work?
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
Rich,
I haven't tried the whistle yet due to a brush spring that is MIA. I need to check if I have one. Aside from light dust on the whistle, it looks to be in great shape. After some time with a ball peen hammer and a small dowel rod, I have the dents almost out and the base back into shape. Unfortunately, the paint cracked and fell off in the process, so I will be doing a restoration now. I'll post photos as I go.
stebby,
The reason that I am trying to avoid removing the rivets is that I am not sure if they are available. I think I can mask things off as I go.
I am really curious how the damage to the base and panel occured. It seems like it would have taken something big to do that based on the gauge of the steel.
Tim,
Trust me, you aren't the first person to ask me what I was thinking when I bought something. I have The Ringling Bros. version, and I always wanted this version to go with it. The fact that it needs restored is another plus to me. I only have $7.95 in it so far, so I can't complain there. I want to get it back as close to factory new as I can, and I'll put it right into service once the restoration is done.
How was it damaged? By the way it is bent, I'd guess it might have been stepped on or tripped over.
Jim
I am waiting on the billboard front for the 762 I got a couple of weeks ago. I did not drill out the rivits. I seperated the top from the bottom by straightening the four tabs, stripped off the paint primed and painted everthing white, masked off the billboard then painted it green. Turned out pretty nice.
As Tim said, the base would straighten out. Mine a a smaller ding and I was able to shape it out. With $8 in it experiment!!!
Good luck
I have the dents almost gone at the moment. That was Valspar Spring Leaf that you use for this green, correct? I need to go to Lowes to get the paint and supplies. I am going to attempt to cover the sign with that green masking tape that is sold in auto parts stores. Hopefully, it won't pull it off. I can't wait to see your 762.
green97probe Jim, I have the dents almost gone at the moment. That was Valspar Spring Leaf that you use for this green, correct? I need to go to Lowes to get the paint and supplies. I am going to attempt to cover the sign with that green masking tape that is sold in auto parts stores. Hopefully, it won't pull it off. I can't wait to see your 762.
Is there any way to temporarily remove the sign so you don't have to mask it, then replace it in the frame once the painting is done?
Unfortunately, the sign is glued to the panel. With my luck, it wouldn't come off in one piece.
The paint is Valspar Summer Leaf 65082. It is semi-gloss but looks good.
Did I ever post pics of my drying booth?
As soon as I get the face on I'll post pics.
Thanks for the info. I remember you telling me about your drying booth and how you got the lights from discarded exit signs.
After some digging through my bins and some cleaning, here is the result.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irEmGxgx-SQ
I have just finished putting the first coat of primer down. I used 60 and 400 grit paper and a steel wire wheel in the Dremel to get as much of the old paint and rust off as possible. The rusted areas were a challenge because the rust was into the metal and not just on the surface.
green97probe I have just finished putting the first coat of primer down. I used 60 and 400 grit paper and a steel wire wheel in the Dremel to get as much of the old paint and rust off as possible. The rusted areas were a challenge because the rust was into the metal and not just on the surface.
I can remember, as a teenager, working on our old 1951 Chevy that my Dad gave to me when my parents bought a new 1960 Chevrolet. The fenders were all rusting out and the metal was definitely affected. In those days, there wasn't a lot available to the consumer to repaire rusted metal. Nowadays, I assume that there are a lot of high tech products available for this purpose. What did you use for this purpose? I hope that you are taking photos to document this restoration project.
Because I wanted to try and keep the sign intact, I didn't use any converter or filler on the rust. I just knocked it down as much as possible and sprayed primer over it. I have been taking photos, but I am waiting to post them all at one time.
Your tip about spraying everything white instead of having to mask twice seems to be working great so far. It definitely made things easier.
I got the white down, but I had to stop and fix a small run. I was going to just leave it, but it would've bothered me until I fixed it. Now, I am waiting to mask and start the green.
The blue painters tape works real good. For the whistle part if you seperated the base, use aluminum foil and wrap it around the whistle and motor then finish off with the masking tape. The green over the white covers better than the white over the green. Looking forward to seeing your!
Thanks again. I removed the whistle from the base at the start to make cleaning and masking the feet and light sockets easier.
I got the green down last night, and I removed the masking tape a few minutes ago. Unfortunately, the sign came with it.
green97probe I got the green down last night, and I removed the masking tape a few minutes ago. Unfortunately, the sign came with it.
NO !!!
Say it ain't so.
Jim, when you say the sign came with it, does that mean it is destroyed?
Bummer the sign looked real nice too. Repro's ~$5. I am going to remember from your misfortune to put down a piece of paper over the sign face before taping off the sign. Thanks for sharing.
If you get overspray on the rubber feet a black sharpie will take care of it.
I'd say at least 95% came off with the tape.
I just picked up a repro on ebay for $6.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
When I get the sign, I'll scan it so that it will be on my PC in case anyone needs one.
Something like that happened to me when I had my 1962 Volvo repainted some years ago after an engine fire. They put masking tape over the number plate when they painted under the hood. It took off the lettering that said that the car was made in England.
Bob Nelson
I got the sign in the mail today, and I just got everything back together. Here are the results.
Here is the base after I got it back into shape.
Thanks.
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