Terminal 1 is the one connected to the base and is the one that you now have connected to your accessory voltage. I don't have an example here; but I was going by the service manual, which shows them numbered. I was trying to emphasize that the accessory voltage would move to terminal 2 and that the short control rail would go onto terminal 1.
Of course, terminals 2 and 3 are interchangeable, both in a conventional setup and in my scheme.
The kind of automotive flasher that's in my car would work, with a big automotive lamp as a hidden load. I don't know what they put in modern cars however.
Bob Nelson
Would an automotive hazard light flasher work? I guess I am looking for simplicity but it sounds like it might.
Paul
I didn't notice terminal numbers--pls clarify.
One of the end terminals and the middle terminal are connected to wires which run up the post and go to the bulbs. The other end terminal seems to be connected to the base and post. I have this last one connected to my auxilliary voltage. Which do you refer to as number 1, 2, and 3?
As for the continuous illumination problem, all I can suggest is that you disconnect the signal and go to work with an ohmmeter to see what is connected to what.
If you're interested in a low-tech solution that alternates the lights, even if it doesn't flash them at a completely uniform speed, I have a proposal for you. It is a variation on the scheme that I have often described for the 153 color-light signal:
Make one control rail just long enough that the front wheel of the front truck of one car is coming onto it just as the rear wheel of the rear truck of the car ahead is leaving it, but short enough that no wheel is on it when it is between the trucks of a car. Then make a (probably longer) control rail adjacent to that one, long enough that one or the other control rail is always occupied when a train is present. If you want the signal to be on for a little distance on either side of the crossing, make two of the longer rails, one on each side of the shorter rail, and connect them together.
Now connect terminal 2 (not terminal 1) of the 154 to your accessory supply (or to the center rail). Connect terminal 3 to the longer control rail(s); and connect terminal 1 to the shorter control rail. Finally connect a number-57 lamp (or two easier-to-find number-53 lamps in parallel) between terminal 1 (or to the shorter control rail that is also connected to terminal 1) and terminal 2 (or to the transformer terminal or center rail that is also connected to terminal 2). Either hide or cover this extra lamp, or put it in some accessory or building where its occasional flashing is appropriate.
Thanks for some good suggestions, especially the last one.
In the interim, I tried the following. One of my running rails is electrically dead to preserve for accessory activation I cut a pair of short sections of this outside running rail, each about 2 inches long, total 4" in my gargraves track, in the rail which is electrically dead. Then about 18" further, i cut a similar pair. So i now have a loop with one raill completely out of any circuit for this type of use. It is now divided in 6 sections; the major portion running around most of the layout, 2 pairs of 2" long sections, and a last section about 18" long in between these two pairs. This should allow the signal to activate before the loco gets to the crossing, and continue flashing after it passes. I connect 1 from each pair together, and wired them to one bulb, and the remaining ones together, and to the other bulb. But I find that one bulb does not flash, it is lit continously, even when only one car is on the track, in that 18" section, which is NOT connected in the circuit. Somewhere there is a electrical path I am not aware of.. I have checked the gaps I cut and they seem to be adequate that no contact is possible, but I can't solve this. My grandson doesnt notice the constant illumination, but I know it shouldn't be. Suggestions for how to trouble shoot this?
Give this a look:
Flasher for Lionel 154
No electronics required and you get complete hookup wiring diagrams.
Here is a link to a topic out of the past on the same subject: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/6006/61005.aspx#61005 . It includes some suggestions of mine. However, they involve electronics, that is, capacitors and semiconductors.
Back in the early 1970's, I picked up a copy of electronic projects for "trains, model railroads, or something like that" There was a circuit for highway flashers that I built that still works today. It was only a one or two night project and wasn't that expensive. Don't let lack of knowledge of semi-conductors, deiodes, etc. scare you off. The parts list and directions were very clear. Perhaps one of the other forum members can give you the right book title. I still have the book but have NO idea where it is.
Mel Hazen; Jax, FL Ride Amtrak. It's the only way to fly!!!
I want to install a 154 crossing signal so that lights blink alternately when train is in the area of the crossing, and I don't want to use the Lionel contactor. I am using Gargraves track, with one running rail dead for use in signalling. I have tried cutting gaps in the rail so that I have small sections to light each bulb alterntaely. However, is there a blinker countrol I could buy for a couple of bucks. I envision it being controlled by the trains bridging an insulated rail control circuit to turn on the blinker Then I would like it to light each lamp in alternating fashion. Trying to attract my grandson's imnterest, so if the lights had to flash together, I would accept that, but would prefer more prototype scheme, and I don't want to pay 35 or 40 dllrs for a unit. Any chances? PS I don't know much about semiconductors, diodes, capacitors, etc.
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