DCC Wiring

Bevrog,

I used the 3M Scothlok wire connectors on the club layout and they work great. Fast, easy to install, and if you need to, you can unhook them and "reset" them to use over. The Mouser stock number is 517-560. Get a bunch, you'll need them.

Mark C.

I have seen the Mouser list.........which IDC is best for my N- guage DCC? Also, is the IDC Crimp Toll necessary?

Sam

QUOTE: Originally posted by weinschenksk I have seen the Mouser list.........which IDC is best for my N- guage DCC? Also, is the IDC Crimp Toll necessary? Sam

Sam,
Pick them according to the wire sizes you plan to use, and the exact way you plan to wire, but any of the ones with a description that contains "run and tap" are the ones you want to look at.

For example, I used 14 guage stranded for my buss and 24 guage solid for my feeders. I couldn't find anything that would accommodate this range of wire guages, so I used something similar to the 517-560's and ran 14 guage taps to terminal strips, where I also connected my feeders.

The crimp tool is a luxury. You can do just as well with a good pair of slip-joint pliers. Set the slip joint to it's wider position so that the jaws are more parallel to each other. Don't worry that the empty pliers won't close completely when set this way; the thickness of the connector makes up for this. A slow, firm squeeze and you're all set.

Remember also, that you shouldn't focus on "N-guage" when it comes to wiring. The total current is what you need to consider. For example, you might have a layout with 10 N-guage locos that draws more current that a similar-sized HO layout with only 1 loco on it.

HTH,
Steve

How about the Posi-Lock product?

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

I was thinking of using these, they look pretty cool!

i don't entirely believe the "replaces four standard taps" part of the marketing.... though as far as i can tell, it does the same job as the other style...

Well, I'll jump in with another view... I do exactly what you say - remvoe a bit of insulation and solder the feeder.

I simply take a wire-stripping tool and make two cuts in the insulation, about 3/4" apart. Then I take a razor knife and slit the insulation lenthwise from cut-to-cut, pops right off. Then solder away. I typically use a pencil-torch for this soldering since you normally don't have to worry about melting ties or scenery. Heat for about 5 secs, hit with the solder, done.

After that's cooled, I recommend you wrap with electrical tape or use liquid electrical tape to seal it up.

Is this easier than the snap-on suitcase connectors? No... and Yes. It's not as easy as snap-ons IF you can get a snap-on that will synch up with both bus and feeder wires. With 12 ga. bus and 22 ga. feeders, I've found them difficult to locate. But, If you _cannot_ get one that matches, and have to go through the hassle and expense of wiring heavier wires from bus to a terminal block, and then wires from there to track, it becomes significantly more of a hassle, in my book.

Cheaper? Definitely, just based on not having to buy the connectors. And doubly-cheaper if you're looking at using terminal blocks because you can't get clip-ons to accommodate your wire sizes.

More reliable? Probably... I'm old school myself, and will always take a soldered joint over a non-soldered one for reliability.

I'm with kchronister, I solder mine. But even easier - I have one of those nice Ideal wire strippers - the kind that aren't cheap. I use them for EVERYTHING - wish I bought a set YEARS ago. Anyway, I just slip that over my bus wire, little squeeze, it pushes a section of the insulation back. Strip end of feeder with same tool, wrap around the bus wire, and solder. Big power comes in handy working with #12 wire - I use a 100 watt soldering gun for this part of the job. And the light helps in the dark undersides of the layout. I offset the two connections so they can't accidentally short, but I also go back and paint them with liquid electrical tape to REALLY be sure.

--Randy

Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers?

I prefer to solder my joints, because it is what I am used to and I trust it over the scotchlocks (and thats not because I am an old timer, I'm only 27) One thing that I do on my buss wires (14 gauge stranded) is to slide a few dozen pieces of heat shrink tubing over the wire as I'm installing it and space thaem out about 12-16" each. This way, when I make a future connection I have the shrink wrap already there, and it holds much better then electric tape. It also makes for a neater installation.

Originally posted by claycts Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers? [/quote Ditto. I've been putting off buying a pair for too long. ] Reply Edit rrinker Member since February 2002 From: Reading, PA 30,002 posts Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 23, 2006 4:41 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers? I think I got mine at Home Depot actually. In the electrical section. Blue handles, Ideal brand. Looks like a wierd pliers, clamp jaw on one side, the other has a die with various holes for different wire sizes. --Randy Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's   Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more. Reply claycts Member since June 2003 From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl. 2,047 posts Posted by claycts on Monday, January 23, 2006 6:21 PM Thank you, I have all the cat 5 stuff from them, I just missed that. Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!! Reply Bevrog Member since January 2001 From: US 33 posts Posted by Bevrog on Monday, January 23, 2006 7:19 PM Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. Have not solder anything in 20 years so I guess I will be relearning the skill. In the mean time the connectors may have to be the way to go for me. Thanks again Roger Reply Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 23, 2006 7:46 PM I will just present the opinion that a properly applied Scotchlok is at least as reliable as a soldered connection, and much easier to do. The key is proper technique, in either case. Reply Edit rrinker Member since February 2002 From: Reading, PA 30,002 posts Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 23, 2006 10:19 PM Everyone says that. I still remain a skeptic. Plus, they don't make them to match my bus (#12) and feeder (#20) sizes. And using the wrong Scotchlok for the wire sizes involved is pretty much a sure way to failure. I believe the ones that fit #12 wire can tap off a #14-16. The ones for #14 can tape off a #18. Roger - soldering the feeders to the bus is about the easiest and most goof-proof type of soldering. No ties to melt, no electronic chips to fry with too much heat. Yeah, if you go nuts you MIGHT melt some of the insulation from the wire getting too hot - but you REALLY have to mess up to do that. Just remember to use the appropriate tool. Those itty-bitty 15 watt irons that are great for soldering the tiny decoder wires in a loco will NEVER heat up a section of #12 wire enough to solder it. I actually have 4 soldering tools, but I've been doign electronics stuff for a long time - and I guess just too cheap to get a single variable heat soldering station to replace the three iron sizes. I have 3 irons in various wattages depending on the task, plus a big heavy gun for the thick stuff like the bus/feeder connections. --Randy Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's   Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more. Reply Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 23, 2006 11:24 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker Everyone says that. I still remain a skeptic. Plus, they don't make them to match my bus (#12) and feeder (#20) sizes. And using the wrong Scotchlok for the wire sizes involved is pretty much a sure way to failure. I believe the ones that fit #12 wire can tap off a #14-16. The ones for #14 can tape off a #18. The 905 for #14 can tap off down to #22. So if #14 is enough for your bus it could be good. BUT, I think that if you tried to use the wrong connector for the wire size then it would not count as properly applied. I don't like the rigidity of a solder joint, especially on a small wire. But if it is well done, and protected from movement it should last for the same forever as the Scotchlok should. Reply Edit Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 24, 2006 9:10 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by baldwinjl I will just present the opinion that a properly applied Scotchlok is at least as reliable as a soldered connection, and much easier to do. The key is proper technique, in either case. My experience is not in synch with that. I used them on a prior layout (much shorter runs and didn't feel I needed 12 ga.). In my experience, they do loosen over time and eventually you get fidgety connections ("time" in this case being 4-5 years). It wasn't universal for me, but of the couple-dozen I used, I'd say 6-8 became cranky. I've never, ever had a solder-joint just randomly fail, so that's why I went back to the "old fashioned" way. Reply Edit Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 29, 2006 8:42 AM Jameco Electronics has everything you need. Call them for a catalogue or just go to google. Reply Edit tcf511 Member since May 2004 From: The Villages, FL 515 posts Posted by tcf511 on Sunday, January 29, 2006 10:37 AM I've successfully used the Scotchloks on my layout but I'have a 12 guage bus and 18 guage feeders and I've had no issues with anything coming loose so far. I guess if one did, you could just apply a new one a lot easier that trying to resolder in an existing layout. Tim Fahey Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR     Reply davekelly Member since December 2003 From: Rhode Island 2,216 posts Posted by davekelly on Sunday, January 29, 2006 2:41 PM The one thing that would bother me about removing a scotchlok or similar device from a wire and moving it else where is the way such connectors "tap" into the wire. Unless I am mistaken (and it wouldn't be the first time) these connectors physically tap into the wire, ie, they pierce the insulation and part of the wire with somesort of blade like devise. As long as the connector is there no problem, but when it is removed the wire that is left is a bit less than the original wire due to the cut out. This would, in my mind effectively reduce the gauge of the wire at that point. Would this cause a "hot spot"? Would this be a place where if flexed the wire would break? This fear is why I much prefer soldering where I can and when I think a connection may be removed in the future. Of course I just might be paranoid. If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong. Reply weinschenksk Member since November 2005 59 posts Posted by weinschenksk on Sunday, January 29, 2006 7:12 PM Can anyone tell me what gauge the wire is on the N scale rail conecotrs? Thanks, Sam Reply Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:20 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by davekelly The one thing that would bother me about removing a scotchlok or similar device from a wire and moving it else where is the way such connectors "tap" into the wire. Unless I am mistaken (and it wouldn't be the first time) these connectors physically tap into the wire, ie, they pierce the insulation and part of the wire with somesort of blade like devise. As long as the connector is there no problem, but when it is removed the wire that is left is a bit less than the original wire due to the cut out. This would, in my mind effectively reduce the gauge of the wire at that point. Would this cause a "hot spot"? Would this be a place where if flexed the wire would break? This fear is why I much prefer soldering where I can and when I think a connection may be removed in the future. Of course I just might be paranoid. Well, then that would make two of us paranoid. You also forgot that having pierced the insulation and the removing the clip, you've also introduced another opportunity for oxidation. Reply Edit davekelly Member since December 2003 From: Rhode Island 2,216 posts Posted by davekelly on Monday, January 30, 2006 11:07 AM Good point. If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong. Reply Anonymous Member since April 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 30, 2006 4:10 PM "The crimp tool is a luxury. You can do just as well with a good pair of slip-joint pliers. Set the slip joint to it's wider position so that the jaws are more parallel to each other. Don't worry that the empty pliers won't close completely when set this way; the thickness of the connector makes up for this. A slow, firm squeeze and you're all set. " ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ A crimp is not a luxury, it is a tool designed to do a certain job, and that is to make safe, reliable crimps. They are not expensive. Please NEVER crimps wires in the fashion stated above, especially with higher voltages such as 110VAC. Death and / or fire can occur. Reply Edit Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up Model Railroader Newsletter Sign up! Follow us: Facebook SUBSCRIBE Renew Digital Editions Give a Gift Customer Service More great sites from Kalmbach Media: