QUOTE: Originally posted by davekelly The one thing that would bother me about removing a scotchlok or similar device from a wire and moving it else where is the way such connectors "tap" into the wire. Unless I am mistaken (and it wouldn't be the first time) these connectors physically tap into the wire, ie, they pierce the insulation and part of the wire with somesort of blade like devise. As long as the connector is there no problem, but when it is removed the wire that is left is a bit less than the original wire due to the cut out. This would, in my mind effectively reduce the gauge of the wire at that point. Would this cause a "hot spot"? Would this be a place where if flexed the wire would break? This fear is why I much prefer soldering where I can and when I think a connection may be removed in the future. Of course I just might be paranoid.
Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
QUOTE: Originally posted by baldwinjl I will just present the opinion that a properly applied Scotchlok is at least as reliable as a soldered connection, and much easier to do. The key is proper technique, in either case.
QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker Everyone says that. I still remain a skeptic. Plus, they don't make them to match my bus (#12) and feeder (#20) sizes. And using the wrong Scotchlok for the wire sizes involved is pretty much a sure way to failure. I believe the ones that fit #12 wire can tap off a #14-16. The ones for #14 can tape off a #18.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers?
Originally posted by claycts Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers? [/quote Ditto. I've been putting off buying a pair for too long. ] Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 23, 2006 2:31 PM I prefer to solder my joints, because it is what I am used to and I trust it over the scotchlocks (and thats not because I am an old timer, I'm only 27) One thing that I do on my buss wires (14 gauge stranded) is to slide a few dozen pieces of heat shrink tubing over the wire as I'm installing it and space thaem out about 12-16" each. This way, when I make a future connection I have the shrink wrap already there, and it holds much better then electric tape. It also makes for a neater installation. Reply Edit claycts Member sinceJune 2003 From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl. 2,047 posts Posted by claycts on Monday, January 23, 2006 2:31 PM Randy, electrical supply house for the strippers? Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!! Reply rrinker Member sinceFebruary 2002 From: Reading, PA 30,002 posts Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 23, 2006 2:18 PM I'm with kchronister, I solder mine. But even easier - I have one of those nice Ideal wire strippers - the kind that aren't cheap. I use them for EVERYTHING - wish I bought a set YEARS ago. Anyway, I just slip that over my bus wire, little squeeze, it pushes a section of the insulation back. Strip end of feeder with same tool, wrap around the bus wire, and solder. Big power comes in handy working with #12 wire - I use a 100 watt soldering gun for this part of the job. And the light helps in the dark undersides of the layout. I offset the two connections so they can't accidentally short, but I also go back and paint them with liquid electrical tape to REALLY be sure. --Randy Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more. Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 23, 2006 1:39 PM Well, I'll jump in with another view... I do exactly what you say - remvoe a bit of insulation and solder the feeder. I simply take a wire-stripping tool and make two cuts in the insulation, about 3/4" apart. Then I take a razor knife and slit the insulation lenthwise from cut-to-cut, pops right off. Then solder away. I typically use a pencil-torch for this soldering since you normally don't have to worry about melting ties or scenery. Heat for about 5 secs, hit with the solder, done. After that's cooled, I recommend you wrap with electrical tape or use liquid electrical tape to seal it up. Is this easier than the snap-on suitcase connectors? No... and Yes. It's not as easy as snap-ons IF you can get a snap-on that will synch up with both bus and feeder wires. With 12 ga. bus and 22 ga. feeders, I've found them difficult to locate. But, If you _cannot_ get one that matches, and have to go through the hassle and expense of wiring heavier wires from bus to a terminal block, and then wires from there to track, it becomes significantly more of a hassle, in my book. Cheaper? Definitely, just based on not having to buy the connectors. And doubly-cheaper if you're looking at using terminal blocks because you can't get clip-ons to accommodate your wire sizes. More reliable? Probably... I'm old school myself, and will always take a soldered joint over a non-soldered one for reliability. Reply Edit NeO6874 Member sinceJanuary 2006 From: Northeast OH 2,268 posts Posted by NeO6874 on Monday, January 23, 2006 12:31 PM i don't entirely believe the "replaces four standard taps" part of the marketing.... though as far as i can tell, it does the same job as the other style... -Dan Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 23, 2006 12:14 PM How about the Posi-Lock product? http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html I was thinking of using these, they look pretty cool! Reply Edit Stevert Member sinceDecember 2001 1,932 posts Posted by Stevert on Monday, January 23, 2006 12:09 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by weinschenksk I have seen the Mouser list.........which IDC is best for my N- guage DCC? Also, is the IDC Crimp Toll necessary? Sam Sam, Pick them according to the wire sizes you plan to use, and the exact way you plan to wire, but any of the ones with a description that contains "run and tap" are the ones you want to look at. For example, I used 14 guage stranded for my buss and 24 guage solid for my feeders. I couldn't find anything that would accommodate this range of wire guages, so I used something similar to the 517-560's and ran 14 guage taps to terminal strips, where I also connected my feeders. The crimp tool is a luxury. You can do just as well with a good pair of slip-joint pliers. Set the slip joint to it's wider position so that the jaws are more parallel to each other. Don't worry that the empty pliers won't close completely when set this way; the thickness of the connector makes up for this. A slow, firm squeeze and you're all set. Remember also, that you shouldn't focus on "N-guage" when it comes to wiring. The total current is what you need to consider. For example, you might have a layout with 10 N-guage locos that draws more current that a similar-sized HO layout with only 1 loco on it. HTH, Steve Reply weinschenksk Member sinceNovember 2005 59 posts Posted by weinschenksk on Sunday, January 22, 2006 9:08 PM I have seen the Mouser list.........which IDC is best for my N- guage DCC? Also, is the IDC Crimp Toll necessary? Sam Reply mcouvillion Member sinceAugust 2003 From: Northeast Houston 576 posts Posted by mcouvillion on Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:08 PM Bevrog, I used the 3M Scothlok wire connectors on the club layout and they work great. Fast, easy to install, and if you need to, you can unhook them and "reset" them to use over. The Mouser stock number is 517-560. Get a bunch, you'll need them. Mark C. Reply Bevrog Member sinceJanuary 2001 From: US 33 posts DCC Wiring Posted by Bevrog on Sunday, January 22, 2006 6:37 PM Now that I think I have figured out what a power bus is all about, how do I attach the track feeders to the power bus line. Do I try to scrape a bit of insulation off the bus to wrap and solder the track feeder? Or is there some kind of an electrical connector I should be looking for? As you can tell wiring is not soming I know too much about. Thanks for any help. Roger Reply Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
QUOTE: Originally posted by weinschenksk I have seen the Mouser list.........which IDC is best for my N- guage DCC? Also, is the IDC Crimp Toll necessary? Sam