Laying atlas code 80 flextrack

Posted by Anonymous

on Sat, Mar 19 2005 5:54 PM

Hi All,
I am new to the group. I have a question that may seem elementary to all of you but I can't seem to get an answer from my local shop. I am in the process of laying atlas code 80 flex track, Every so often, I wind up with a tiny gap between the tracks that makes my trains hop skip and jump. Can I fill these gaps in with solder?
Tom

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Posted by selector

on Sun, Mar 20 2005 3:45 PM

Best is solder, but it can be a lot of work filing the 'weld' so that you don't get the same problem; the wheels don't care, just make it smooth!

Some use small plastic bits of model sprue, or whatever, and glue them in. Filing those is often the case, and is easier than shaping solder.

I have heard others using 'gelled' cyano-acrylate (Super Glue), and also filing later. My one-time experiment with that method was less than satisfactory, but,,,,maybe you....

I only filled gaps that were greater than 1/16". The train clacks across gaps in the rails in real life, so your model ought to do the same. Larger gaps, though are undesirable.

Posted by Anonymous

on Mon, Mar 21 2005 6:14 PM

Hi,
Thanks for the speedy answer! I understand that a smooth weld is important on the top of the rails. How about the sides of the rail. Should I be trying to keep to the rail shape as quickly as possible. If I use sprues, do the side have to be filed to keep them close to shape. By the way, I,m not sure if I mentioned that this is n scale.
Thanks,
Tom

Posted by underworld

on Fri, Mar 25 2005 9:46 AM

Use a small file to flatten the top profile and the inside profile of the rail. You do want to take care of the inside of the rail as this is where the wheel flange will make contact.

underworld

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Posted by underworld

on Fri, Mar 25 2005 10:06 AM

You also might want to consider using silver solder.

underworld

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Posted by Anonymous

on Fri, Mar 25 2005 8:34 PM

Silver Solder sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the tip on the filing procedure. Has anyone had any experience with a cold soldering tool I've seen on TV. I haven't seen one yet so I don't know how big it is.

Posted by underworld

on Sat, Mar 26 2005 12:10 AM

About the size of a regular soldering iron for electronic work. I haven't used one but they are basically a regular soldering iron but the tip heats up and cools down in seconds. Probably by using exotic metals in the tip.

underworld

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Posted by Anonymous

on Sat, Mar 26 2005 2:34 PM

Thanks for all your info. I'll let you know how it works out
Happy Easter!

Posted by Anonymous

on Sat, Mar 26 2005 2:42 PM

You have been so helpful, perhaps you might have an answer for this one. I have 2 locos, a Santa Fe n scale with a DCC chip and a Pennsy , n scale with a dcc chip.

The pennsy runs fine but the shorter santa fe derails at the same spot on my track. Naturally, it is under a mountain. I checked the current and it is fine along the entire track. I even removed the magnetic coupler from the santa fe because I thought it might be making contact with the rail. It is a gentle curve. Before I cut open the mountain to closely inspect what is happening, does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks to all!

Posted by Anonymous

on Sat, Mar 26 2005 3:09 PM

It', those drunk keeblers elves. They did it to mine too. My switcher was a Sante fe too.