Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Simon,
In January I was involved with a project layout for my local NMRA division. One of the pieces of the project was a Design Preservations building. There were forty windows in the building.
I cut all the acetate to the proper size then, layed them on the window frames. I used Ambroid Pro Weld to attach the acetate.
With the widow frames face down on the work surface, the acetate was positioned and the Pro Weld applied to the edges with the brush attached to the cap. Capillary action drew the liquid between the surfaces.
You only need to be careful not to apply too much of the liquid glue to the material.
I had an assembly line going and it worked well.
Good luck with your project.
I did something similar to what Mike did with a DPM kit, but I used a few dots of Aleene's Tacky Glue. I slopped a bit on a spot where you could see it, but it dried almost clear - with window treatment, it's not noticeable. Still bugs me, though.
For HO or smaller windows with openings no larger than 1/4 inch, I use WeldBond, which comes in a 4 fl. oz. or larger bottle. This is the exact same product that Micro-Mark sells under their name of Micro-Glaze. Spread a film of WeldBond over the window or door window frame and set aside to dry. WeldBond is a white latex compound as it comes out of the bottle, but dries perfectly clear.
A big advantage, too, is that the glazing is inside the frame instead of behind it, so it looks more realistic.