I wouldn't. I think 3 in 1 is actually a vegetable oil product.
What sort of "cleaning" are you trying to do? Are you trying to strip the paint, or just clean off grime and dirt buildup? For grime and dirt, I'd recommend isopropyl alcohol. Heavy oils will leave a residue that will just attract more dirt. Eventually, you'll need something to clean the oil off.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I am going to disagree here. I say this with all respect, guys, but as a cleaning agent, and not on the plastic natch, I can't see any harm. In fact, due to its refined nature and qualities, it would be an ideal cleaner for bearings and tires. It would dissolve gunk and residue, and should clean up meant-to-be-shiny surfaces really well. The object would be to use something like a tiny Q-tip and apply only the least amount needed to clean up a small 0.5 cm sq at a time.
You would want to take up as much of it as possible before you apply any lube. The oil left behind will serve to dilute already thin hobby lubes. In that respect, only, would solvents with much higher vapour pressures be better because you can let those surfaces air dry and apply the lube full strength.
Just my
The only oil I use for trains is Labelle plastic compatible oil. Get it with the needle nose tip.
Enjoy
Paul
usher40351 wrote:Can i use 3 n1 motor oil to clean my stem engine like the little six loco.
3-in-One oil is an excellent lubricant for non-plastic bearing surfaces, in an environment where there are no plastics nearby. That said, as a cleaner, 3-in-one oil is pretty much counter-intuitive.
If you have an older "Little Six" (Mantua's 0-6-0T), with an all-metal body and wheels, you probably won't hurt it much, but it's not very effective as a cleaning agent.
Instead, remove the body from the chassis and wash it (the body)in soap and water. You could use an old toothbrush to scrub it gently, to get the grime in the corners. If possible, disassemble the chassis, and wash the frame, as well. Once everything is air-dried, reassemble the chassis and lube the axles, crankpins (where the side rods and main rods are connected to the wheels), and piston rods with a hobby oil like LaBelle #101 . Then mount the body back onto the frame, and you're in business.
Do not wash the motor.
As a de-greaser for bearing surfaces (like the axles and bearings), I've found 91% isopropyl alcohol (from your pharmacy) to be a safe and effective product.
Good luck - the Little Six can be a nice little switcher with a little TLC...
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BRAKIE wrote:I use 3 in 1 years ago on brass engines with brass gears..I then went to sewing machine oil and now I use Labelle.
I agree with Brakie on this, 3in1 and even it's residue isn't even compatible with other quality oils once you do lube it properly (Labell etc) you could have issues.
You should see just what it used to do to old Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs (A blast from the past for many), I have torn apart many gummed up hubs from people using this and contaminating the already well oiled components. Do you still want to get it anywhere near your models?
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I would keep it with the automotive realm and out of the model railroad realm.
You might put it on a compatible locomotive, but minute splash is going to get on everything else.
I have a mantua 0-6-0 regeared and remotored with NWSL, boy I will keep that stuff away from it.
I bought myself a collection of hobby lubricants and they are labeled plastic compatible (or not)
I use plastic compatible on just about everything
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:If you want a plastic compatible (proven) lubricant that you can get in bulk and find ANYWHERE, Dexron/Mercon Transmission fluid. Many GM transmissions and trans-axles have plastic components which require the use of a plastic compatible lubricant. Dexron/Mercon is it! It's what I use on my locos when I can't find the Trinity R/C oil.
I just tried that tranny fluid (along with 2-26) on one of my Bachs and that stuff works great. I like it better than the Labell. If your using 3-1 to clean something, you'll just have to use something else to clean the 3-1 oil off. That stuff gets gummy after a while.
Yes. Try some on a Q-Tip and wipe at the dirty surface. See for yourself. Wipe the surface dry with a keenex afterwards. Keep the oil away from your paint and plastic parts of the loco...and off your fingers, too, so that they don't transfer it to your model.
I also use the auto-transmission fluid as a lubricant on my rods and valve gear, as well as in the journals on my axles.
You can not go wrong with Dexron/Mercon Transmission fluid. If you have the opportunity to use a third party for your oil changes, I have found they will gladly fill a msall bottle for you at no cost.
Works great and does not attack plastic. My test was placing a old rail car shell in a bottle of this oil, after 30 days, the car shell showed no deteriation. Not sure if this the right way to test it, though.