I bit the bullet today and bought a Kato Unitrack Switch in HO. It was their number 4 switch which I intend to use in the yard. I was prepared to write off the loss if this switch did not pass inspection on the workbench and choose another switch to use.
Now I installed thier switch into a set of Kato Unitrack straight sections to form a simple siding off one track. It did come equippted with a wire set for using the electrical motor to switch the points. It was also equippted with a manual lever hidden in the side which actually provided some spring resistance to hold the points in place.
I placed a BLI NW Switcher B&O Number 9550 and a set of 4 Branchline 40' reefer cars which were built recently as a set of Monarch Foods reefers. All 4 were equippted with the Kaydee number 148 whisker couplers while the BLI unit came with a set of number 5's. I put two reefers on the "Main" (18" towards a brightly lit workbench does not a main make) and put two on the siding to switch.
I inched the BLI switcher at a very low speed. Somewhere between 3-8 mph across the switch which was set for the main. It traveled from my left to my right. The switch divirging route was placing the siding to the left of the main. (Left hand switch) with the points against the Switcher.
I approached the reefer on the main, hooked on and backed across the switch until I was clear of the points to put the car into the siding.
I crossed the switch at the speed step one, points were fine, the frogs were fine... before the first axle reached the switch's joiners a wheel lifted and derailed just past the frog plate.
AHA. I spent some time running it back and forth until I understood why it was derailing like that.
The Frogs are gapped by Kato with very small plastic on the rails. The siding rail (Or dirvirging rail) just past the frog were not in gauge and was curved into the path that the wheel would take. The guide rail to the other side was fine.
Out came the file and I filed the rail head down to the gap so that the wheel will be guided into the new track past the frog. I contemplated putting a spike at that little spot or perhaps some very strong glue that bonds metal to plastic. I will explore my options later. I could have used a tie with a plastic spike as produced by Kato in that specific location between the frog and the first molded tie. I may "Build" and glue down plastic spike blocks to hold that rail.
I stopped the switcher on top of the frog, daring it to short or stall. Nope. I did this on both sides of the switch trying to get the switcher to stall. Nope no stalling.
I think this turn out is a power routing turnout, I will probably place a second switcher somewhere on another track to learn what might happen later on after dinner.
I think this switch is a good one and will keep it. I probably will use the Kato's little levers that will need to be added on along with the converter to use the item as a electric turnout. I think the yard master will be quite busy enough without having to enter turnout commands into the DT400. I just wonder if I have to power the switch motor off the Analog power pack using a Kato Converter and switch levers.
These are very expensive switches and so far I am pleased with it. The next time I review a Kato Switch might be with thier number 6's up against some of my pickest, onery and mean Big Steam engines that will derail, short or bridge frogs at the first oppertunity of any flaws in the track.
I give this item a 4 out of 5. They could have done a better job securing that rail just past the frog and keeping it in gauge.