I purchased a powercab system awhile ago, got it up and running no problem. Bought an engine off of e-bay, then I ran it on my test track for a minute. It ran okay so I put a decoder in it and go the my layout plug in my powercab. It has been awhile since I have done anything with it so i just left the cable unplugged from the panel. So I plug the cord in and the throtle powered up but no red light on the panel. I double checked the track visually and with a meter for shorts, none. I checked the panel output wires , no voltage. Does anyone have any suggestions before I call Tony's (where I bought it) or NCE on monday.
Gary
I can think of one other thing:
I would also suggest you check the wiring of the PCP panel (IE the wall wart jack and the track jacks on the rear), though I bet the wall wart is fine, seeing as the throttle turned on. Also, check if you have the unit set in program mode..?
Sorry I don't have better answers for you... I don't have a Powercab, so I don't know it's ins and outs...
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
I tried them both then I got out the manual and I first put it in the right port. I double checked everything and it is right. I don't think I left it in program mode but I will check it.
Thanks Gary
Gary,
The Power Cab cable is connected into the LEFT connector port. If everything is wired up correctly, the red LED should light up on the PCP panel. (If you plug it into the RIGHT port, it won't) I believe the older Power Cab manuals had a typo in it for that. It is the LEFT connector port you connect to.
So, your:
Gary, once you shut off power to your Power Cab, after you turn it on again, it should go right into operation mode - no matter if you were in programming mode before you shut it off.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I have it plugged in the left port with the flat cable, both track wires are hooked up. I thought it was in the ops mode. Don't know what happened, it was running good before.
Just to make that I'm on the same page:
After you first installed the decoder a while back, did the locomotive ever work with your Power Cab then?
Remove the new loco from the tracks and reset the system.
Is there a short in the loco that will not allow the powercab to supply track current?
John
Still won't power up with nothing on the tracks. I believe it is either something in the throttle or the cable.
Hmm... it's starting to sound like an NCE problem.
Depending on what you have the wall wart plugged into, it may be the problem though. Especially if you're in an area where May starts the A/C season. Maybe there was enough of a spike to damage the unit enough so it isn't putting out the correct voltage/amperage.... If it's plugged into a power strip/surge protector, maybe that is incapable of handling the power requirements of the Powercab - especially if the unit puts out whatever voltage at 2A continuous.
The one I have right here in front of me is rates for 10A, although I bet its internal breaker would trip if it ever saw 10A going through it...
I went back and started checking continunity with my meter on the cable and one end is bad.After I got it I broke on of the clips on the cable end. I went up to radio shack, bought some rj ends and the guy up there put it on for me and it is that end. I'll see what I can do with it tomorrow.
Sorry for all the questions but I have to ask them to narrow things down. Is the straight, flat cable you are using the 7' long black 6-wire (RG RJ-12) connector cable that came with your Power Cab?
Three possible things come to mind:
Other than that, I can't come up with a reason why your Power Cab will power up but the red LED on the PCP panel won't. And you stated that you do have it plugged into the LEFT connector port.
Okay, two more questions, Gary:
Good to hear it was something simple, and pretty cheap to fix (compared to buying a new cable).
Hope it works out for you
Tom,
Methinks you meant RJ-12 cable... RG-12 Cable is coaxial cable (actually, I think that was the thinnet cable in 10-Base2 networking... unless I'm getting my numbers jumbed... bah finals!)
dad1218 wrote: I went back and started checking continunity with my meter on the cable and one end is bad.After I got it I broke on of the clips on the cable end. I went up to radio shack, bought some rj ends and the guy up there put it on for me and it is that end. I'll see what I can do with it tomorrow. Gary
Ahhh, the missing piece of the puzzle. My guess is that the guy at Radio Shack put on the WRONG connector. The ones they sell at Radio Shack are RJ-11/14 connectors. It HAS to be a 6-wire RJ-12 connector. The extra 2 wires are for powering the track.
I think your cable is probably fine. It's your connector is what is wrong. You may just have to buy a new one from Tony's. I don't think Radio Shack will have those particular connectors.
NeO6874 wrote:Tom,Methinks you meant RJ-12 cable... RG-12 Cable is coaxial cable (actually, I think that was the thinnet cable in 10-Base2 networking... unless I'm getting my numbers jumbed... bah finals!)
You think right, Dan. I goofed up the first time but got it right the second. I went back and corrected it. Thanks.
The connector worked ok, I looked at the end that was replaced and it has a funny look to it. Like it was crushed instead of crimped into the wire. I think I am going to go ahead and order a new cable from Tony's monday.
Radio Shack DOES sell the correct ends. And the correct tool to put them on. However, given that Radio Shack is little more than a cell phone store anymore, it's not surprising they failed to install one correctly. It's actually pretty simple if you take a second to look at the way the tool (the METAL one, not the plastic cheap one) is made. It has a spot to strip the wire to the correct length.
But there is one caveat. I believe the power cord for the PowerCab has thicker wire on the two outer conductors. This will make it nearly impossible to properly strip with a standard RJ crimp tool since the stripping section relies on the wire being flat, not bulged on the edges. This would require careful stripping with a knife or razor blade. Stripping too far back isn't a problem, you can then cut off the excess internal conductors to the proper length to insert into the plug shell.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Actually Radio Shack is discontinuing most of the RJ-12 stuff, some stores may have some remaining stock. The three here have already sent they're remaining stock back to Texas. Check lighting/electrial stores that also supply contractors, and computer (service) stores.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
The ones I bought were actually rj-25. The same physical size with 6 conductor, the rj-11/14 are 4 conductor. All the wires on the cable look the same size. I went back by radio shack looking for the tool, no luck, I am going to check another one tomorrow. I also thought about calling the electrical supplier that we deal with at work. I thouight abouit go ahead and buying the tool anyway because hopefully it won't be too much longer before we move to a bigger house. Bigger house =bigger layout.
The tool I bought I think was in the computer section of RS, while the 6 position ends were over by the phones. The crimp tool by the phones was a cheap plastic one.
Home Depot or Lowes should have a good quality crimp tool, most likely Ideal brand. Don't waste your money on a plastic crimper, the metal ones aren;t all that much more expensive and are 100% better.
rrinker wrote: The tool I bought I think was in the computer section of RS, while the 6 position ends were over by the phones. The crimp tool by the phones was a cheap plastic one. Home Depot or Lowes should have a good quality crimp tool, most likely Ideal brand. Don't waste your money on a plastic crimper, the metal ones aren;t all that much more expensive and are 100% better. --Randy
I disagree, the metal tools are minimally 132.5% better
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NeO6874 wrote: rrinker wrote: The tool I bought I think was in the computer section of RS, while the 6 position ends were over by the phones. The crimp tool by the phones was a cheap plastic one. Home Depot or Lowes should have a good quality crimp tool, most likely Ideal brand. Don't waste your money on a plastic crimper, the metal ones aren;t all that much more expensive and are 100% better. --Randy I disagree, the metal tools are minimally 132.5% better
Well I once had a really high quality plastic tool (it was that real solid plastic stuff they made Tuff Stuff toys from - nearly unbreakable) so that throws my average off a bit
I ordered one a crimper and more ends from Tony's this afternoon, suppose to ship tomorrow. My local electrical supplier didn't have a crimper in stock and my local RS didn't have any either. I figure I could use them when I add more plug-in panels after I get a larger layout.
rrinker wrote: NeO6874 wrote: rrinker wrote: The tool I bought I think was in the computer section of RS, while the 6 position ends were over by the phones. The crimp tool by the phones was a cheap plastic one. Home Depot or Lowes should have a good quality crimp tool, most likely Ideal brand. Don't waste your money on a plastic crimper, the metal ones aren;t all that much more expensive and are 100% better. --Randy I disagree, the metal tools are minimally 132.5% better Well I once had a really high quality plastic tool (it was that real solid plastic stuff they made Tuff Stuff toys from - nearly unbreakable) so that throws my average off a bit --Randy
Wait... you mean you used to be able to use the words "high quality" and "plastic" in the same sentence!?
Do you know if the crimp tool you ordered will also do 4-wire RJ-12 connectors? You only need the 6-wire connector for the Power Cab PCP panel. The UTP panels only require the 4-wire connectors.
Or, can you just use 6-wire connectors for both panels? (The extra two wires just won't get used for power?)
You should be able to use 6-wire cables for NCE panels, the other two pins aren;t connected to anything internally in the ProCab or PH-Pro command station so no harm in connecting them. The plugs and jacks are all 6 conductor anyway. You cna use 4-conductor wire but just have to be careful to get it into the 4 center pins and not shifted off to one side or the other or you'll really wonder why the cabs don't work at that panel.
Oh and if you want cables (applies to Digitrax as well) just grab theones with ends on at WalMart. You can't use them as-is because the pins are flipped, telephone style, but if you need say 12 foot cables just buy one 25' one at WalMart, cut it in half, and put two new ends on the cut part. 2 full cables using only 2 ends.. Maybe I'm just cheap liek that. Actually I now have a box full of 12-30' cables since we repalced the phone system at work and threw out allthe old phones. They all used 6-wire cables, so before the phones hit the trash I took all the cords.
rrinker wrote: You should be able to use 6-wire cables for NCE panels, the other two pins aren;t connected to anything internally in the ProCab or PH-Pro command station so no harm in connecting them. The plugs and jacks are all 6 conductor anyway. You cna use 4-conductor wire but just have to be careful to get it into the 4 center pins and not shifted off to one side or the other or you'll really wonder why the cabs don't work at that panel. --Randy
Thanks, Randy. That's what I thought.