Hudson wrote:I have a line on a very rare, old, but in excellent condition, brass loco that would really round out my roster beautifully. It's a Continental Imports A1a B&A Berkshire. The only problem is that it has very worn drivers. I assume these can be replaced or retread. Is that the case? If so do any of you know where I could get the parts? Or a service?
Try Greenway Products http://www.greenwayproducts.com/a_drivers.shtml . They should have the proper 63" drivers for an A1a.
Andre
You might try Bowser.
http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoother/Partref1.pdf
Precision Scale has drivers.
http://www.precisionscaleco.com/
Click on "Detail Parts"
Click on "Click here to see PSC's scratchbuilding supplies and parts"
Click under "Wheelsets" on "Specify scale". A drop down menue will open.
I have called PSC and they work very well over the phone.
You did not specify scale.
rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 wrote: You might try Bowser.http://www.bowser-trains.com/hoother/Partref1.pdfPrecision Scale has drivers.http://www.precisionscaleco.com/Click on "Detail Parts"Click on "Click here to see PSC's scratchbuilding supplies and parts"Click under "Wheelsets" on "Specify scale". A drop down menue will open. I have called PSC and they work very well over the phone. You did not specify scale.rich
The loco is more than likely HO.
As for Bowser drivers, they might work, but some fiddling around may be necessary as the loco in question was a Japanese import and used 3 mm (.118 inch) diameter axles whereas Bowser uses 1/8" (.125 inch). They're close, but not identical.
I always forget to mention scale!
It is HO folks, thanks again!
Before starting, I am assuming this steam locomotive is set up like most of them I have seen. And, having said that, your first step(s) might need to be getting an NWSL puller and a quarterer. Don't you have brass bearing blocks on each axle? And on both sides of the geared axle? A lot of re-quartering to be done there.
Next, why replace drivers just because the tires are a little worn? Unless you are going to turn it into a showcase queen, they will wear again. If they are not even, you can true them up with a Dremel if you are carelul, and/or you can also replate them fairly easily.
Replacing drivers was one of the ugliest tasks I ever undertook. And even then I wasn't happy, and ended up redoing and re-installing the originals.
Good luck.
Hello Virginian,
To be frank, I have no idea how to do this myself. I'd greatly appreciate it if you could explain some of the tasks you've indicated below. I do have a very experienced painter and repairman. He worked for Overland for 25 years. I really would like to become more self sufficient with maintaining my brass, but I'm greatly hesitant considering the investment.
Thanks for your advice,
Martin
Hudson--
Is it just the plating that's worn on the drivers, and not the tires themselves? If it's just plating, you can always get them replated, and if you choose not to do that, you can always install the Tomar pickup shoes on the loco and tender. They fit between the loco drivers and the tender wheels and are almost invisible. They are phosphor bronze, slide along the rail and improve the pickup about 100%. I've been doing this on all my older brass, and they run so smoothly now, that I've been doing it on my newer brass as a matter of course. Very easy to install, all you need is a *60 drill-bit and a #90 tap. The conversion takes about 1/2 hour at the most, and I think you'll be very pleased with the results. The Tomar loco kits contain parts for two locomotives.
They've sure saved me a lot of grief.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Also, if the drivers are just worn; smooth and not grooved, I wouldn't do anything. Real railroads used to turn down the outside diameter of drivers to keep them even and remove flat spots, often to the tune of a couple of inches. So, a little "wear" is quite realistic.
There are several "How To" series on the NWSL website that explain things better than I could. Check them out. If you are going to work on any brass locos, step one is to get some good tools, and get ready to make friends with NWSL. They are first class in my book. If you call them not only does someone answer, but usually it is someone real knowlegeable.
http://www.nwsl.com/
Virginian wrote:Also, if the drivers are just worn; smooth and not grooved, I wouldn't do anything. Real railroads used to turn down the outside diameter of drivers to keep them even and remove flat spots, often to the tune of a couple of inches. So, a little "wear" is quite realistic.There are several "How To" series on the NWSL website that explain things better than I could. Check them out. If you are going to work on any brass locos, step one is to get some good tools, and get ready to make friends with NWSL. They are first class in my book. If you call them not only does someone answer, but usually it is someone real knowlegeable.http://www.nwsl.com/
Yes, they are very good. I have bought from them quite a few times.
Thanks folks, I appreciate the information. I don't have this particular model in hand yet. The photo's look really good the detailing is way ahead of it's time especially considering it may have been made in the 50's. It is obvious the drivers are worn though, to what extent? I can't tell. I'll be sure and bring this topic back up if I do pick up the loco in question.