"Rust, whats not to love?"
Decals.
Use a swab and IPA to carefully remove the existing number - touch up maybe required - then if you choose a bit of gloss cote, decal, dull cote and weather.
Robby,
FYI: The IPA that Nigel mentioned, I believe is isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to test this on the underside of the car so that you aren't removing both letter AND paint at the same time.
If you are careful, you can also use a mechanical pencil eraser to remove lettering. Gently erase in one direction ONLY (i.e. NOT in a back and forth motion) and keep checking your progress after every 3rd or 4th stroke. Like the isopropyl alcohol method above, what you DON'T want to do is to start removing the paint underneath the lettering.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
"No soup for you!" - Yev Kassem (from Seinfeld)
I am major fan of the eraser method mentioned by tstage!
I use an eraser pencil from the office store. It's a pencil with eraser material instead of lead. One end is softer (for pencil) and the other end harder (for ink) and can be sharpened in a sharpener.
Take care and work slow. Most of the time the lettering and /or numbers come off and leave the paint in tact. I've done a lot of cars and locos and have found this method to be "ALMOST" fool-proof. Just remember to work slow...It does take some time and may seem, at first, that you are making no progress. Just keep at it slow and steady.
Is there a particular brand name for this eraser pencil? I have checked both OfficeMax and Office Depot with no luck. I have think I am looking in the wrong place.
thanks
oswemic,
If you go where the pens and pencils are hanging up, it should be there. They should carry packets just for the gray erasers that fit the end of the mechanical pencils.
The eraser pens have a clickable extender like the ones on utility knives. They're larger than the mechanical pencil erasers. I like the smaller erasers because it allows me to get into tighter areas, if need be.
tstage wrote: Robby,FYI: The IPA that Nigel mentioned, I believe is isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to test this on the underside of the car so that you aren't removing both letter AND paint at the same time. If you are careful, you can also use a mechanical pencil eraser to remove lettering. Gently erase in one direction ONLY (i.e. NOT in a back and forth motion) and keep checking your progress after every 3rd or 4th stroke. Like the isopropyl alcohol method above, what you DON'T want to do is to start removing the paint underneath the lettering.Tom
I actually tried that method with a regular wood No. 2 pencil on an old El Cheapo boxcar I had lying around and it worked pretty good. I'd say that'd be abetter way than trying to control all that alcohol. If you're still worried you might accidentally scratch up some of the numbering you do want use some painters tape and mask off what you don't want rubbed.
I only use IPA (India Pale Ale) when I'm eating steamed crabs...
If you want to represent a car that has a new owner, do what they do... Paint a block of a similar color over the old numbers, then decal on new ones in a different font or color.
There are usually other stencils that are applied at the same time with updated capacity figures, maintenance information etc, so the reporting marks and number may not be the only thing that's re-stenciled. In today's world, the railroads often have to do this type of paint out just to keep the important information visible after an attack by graffiti vandals.
You don't even have to be neat about it. Most of these lettering jobs are done quickly with a roller. Take a look at some prototype photos to see more examples.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net