I fixed up several Rivarossi steam locos a few years back. Golf Manor Hobbies in Cincinnati had all the parts and Rivarossi diagrams I needed for each. Last time I was in Cincy about a year or so ago they were still in business. Telephone: 513-351-3849.
One of the engines was a cab forward. In that case, I only needed to buy some detail parts. The main repair I made to this loco was to super glue the broken frame back together. The frame was broken at the rear cylinders causing the mechanism to bind up on one set of drivers.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Here is the exploded view from http://hoseeker.net. Your description is a little vague. Are the side rods or valve gear coming apart? Is the rear engine not completely attached to the boiler? See if you can tell from the parts list.
(Click on images to enlarge.)
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
looks like its time to give it a complete checkover.
dont force it, you could break something.
You will want to take the shell off to get to the mechanics.
The motor should have shafts going to worm gears which have a vertical rotating shafts that runs down to another worm gear at the wheels.
Have some plastic compatible grease handy.
with a small screwdriver remove the screws on the vertical worm gears, then with a small screwdriver try turning the little shafts that go down, this will check if one is binding up.
Binding up can mean problems in the siderod motion.
more often tho the engine may need a full lube job.
I always put oil on the siderods and any other surfaces where metal touches metal.
The lower worm gears will need grease.
Get used to this because Steam lokies are always labor intensive, but is good to do.
Even the new steamers I will lube up at least the siderods.
Hi - your diagram is awsome! Anyway, here is what I think the issue is - the piece labeled 21/22 has a rod that extends into the hole(s) on the right hand sideof part 101. When this happens the running gear binds and pushes the platform labeled 33 to an abnormal angle. Hope this helps clear the vagueness.
Thanks,
Matt
mattbvt wrote: Hi - your diagram is awsome! Anyway, here is what I think the issue is - the piece labeled 21/22 has a rod that extends into the hole(s) on the right hand sideof part 101. When this happens the running gear binds and pushes the platform labeled 33 to an abnormal angle. Hope this helps clear the vagueness.
Okay, that clears it up. It sounds like the piston rod or valve gear is not going into the cylinder properly, perhaps because it's bent. Glad the diagram helped.
Hi - based on my latest description, what might your thoughts be? I am very new to this and do not want to make the problem worse. Will by the oils and grease.
If that does not work, look at part 101. Mine was broken at the cylinders. That's what I super glued together.
mattbvt wrote: Hi - based on my latest description, what might your thoughts be? I am very new to this and do not want to make the problem worse. Will by the oils and grease.
You can certainly try moderate lubrication, but it sounds more involved than that. Do you have a digital camera so that you can post a photo of the problem?
"If that does not work, look at part 101. Mine was broken at the cylinders. That's what I super glued together."
Heartland, your cylinders were broken off of the frame? That would certainly explain the piston problem. It's probably a weak point, especially with that huge rear deck.
Matt, are the cylinders and platform on 101 loose or broken?
Hi Nelson - will be there in about five minutes.
Thanks again,
Yes, the plastic frame was broken against the cylinders and the platform would wobble. Carefully super gluing solved the problem about 3 or 4 years ago. It's still fixed, but I don't use that engine often.
Garry
Hi Nelson - I cannot find anything broken, however there does seem to be more travel between 101 and the platform else the metal rods would not keep slipping out? I just took some pictures, however being new to this forum, am still working out how to post them.
mattbvt wrote: Hi Nelson - I cannot find anything broken, however there does seem to be more travel between 101 and the platform else the metal rods would not keep slipping out? I just took some pictures, however being new to this forum, am still working out how to post them.
You can't upload the photos directly to the forum. You have to upload them to a site like Photo Bucket and link to them using the little picture button in the post dialog.
Hi Gary - when I hold part 101 still, the cylinders (attached to platform) move side to side and up and down a lot - when I do this, the metal rods come out depending on how far the drive gear has pushed them in. I take it the platform is supposed to be tight to the body of the rest of the locomotive and prevent this?
I have my cab forward in front of me and I'm trying to compare it with the photos. It looks like cylinders and the platform droop down in your second picture.
Holding a straight edge on the drive wheel bottoms of my engine, I see the cylinder bottoms and the platform are parallel with the straght edge. Holding it against the image of yours on the screen looks like they are not parallel. The farther out you go along the platform the lower it gets as well as I can see in your picture. Is that the case?
mattbvt wrote: Hi Gary - when I hold part 101 still, the cylinders (attached to platform) move side to side and up and down a lot - when I do this, the metal rods come out depending on how far the drive gear has pushed them in. I take it the platform is supposed to be tight to the body of the rest of the locomotive and prevent this? Thanks,Matt
Yep. The whole assembly should be tight. Garry was right. I'm sure it can be repaired, but it's beyond a beginner's experience level.
On mine they move very freely - so the platform/cylinders will droop or rise easily. Sounds like they shouldn't?
If they cylinders are loose from the rest of part 101, that's likely the same problem I had.
I had the same drawing on paper when I fixed the engine. I carefully unassembled the parts attached to part 101. Then I used good quality super glue to glue it together. (the gel kind works for me. Blue bottle. I think it's acaleed tite bond or something like that.) Make sure it's solidly repaired before re-assmbly.
As I said, the engine is still fixed but I don't use it often. I do not pull heavy train either because I'm afraid it will break my glue joint if too much stress is on it.
I hope this helps. I've got to go. Good luck.. have fun. (I'll check back late tonite or tomorrow.)
Thanks for all your help. If I was to by a replace part(s), what would I buy and do you have a recommendation on who might seel these parts?
mattbvt wrote: Thanks for all your help. If I was to by a replace part(s), what would I buy and do you have a recommendation on who might seel these parts?Thanks,Matt
It says "Metal truck frame w/ steamchest" on the parts list, or you could describe it as the rear engine frame. As Garry mentioned, Golf Manor Hobbies has parts, or you could look for parts or a junker on eBay. If you replace the frame, you're going to have to transfer the wheels and running gear to the new one. I think you can get away with gluing the steamchest without completely dismantling the assembly. I tend to prefer the thin Super Glue, or CA, and then spray it with an accelerator so I don't end up holding the parts for half an hour. You have to be careful with the amount of CA you use, and not get it on your fingers. Are you going to try it yourself?
Matt,
Here is a link to a Yahoo group I joined called Rivarossi AHM IHC Bachmann Steam Modelers. You should join.
I found a guy who says he has lots of Rivarossi parts. His name is Val, and his email is roundhousebackshop@cox.net . I haven't spoken to him personally, but you can give him a try.
I'm calling it a night too.
Thanks to all for your help! I may try glue first and if all else fails, replace the parts. I will try it myself since I have to learn somehow!
Hi all who helped me out with this - was able to glue with the type of super glue you recommended and then reinforced with epoxy for plastics. All is back together and the engine works like a champ! Now in hunt for a Big Boy.
mattbvt wrote: Hi all who helped me out with this - was able to glue with the type of super glue you recommended and then reinforced with epoxy for plastics. All is back together and the engine works like a champ! Now in hunt for a Big Boy. Thanks again,Matt
Wow! Not bad for a beginner. Glad we were able to help.
Good to know the Cab Forward is operating fine for you.
You mentioned Big Boy next. There were two of them in the group of Rivarossi engines I metioned. Both were in bad shape due to abuse. One had been dropped at least once on each end on a hard surface. I replaced the entire trailing truck assembly (under the cab) on that engine. There were several other smaller parts which I replaced. Some broken pieces were just glued back together. Also, I fabricated some detail parts.
My two fixed-up Big Boys now run and look acceptable. I should mention the electical pick-up could have been designed better. The tender has no electrical contacts. All power from one rail connects only with two wheels under the cab. The other rail connects with eight drive wheels. The engine can stall if the two wheels are on a dead spot on the track.