apartment railer wrote:Oh and i am running code55 with 10'' turn..... i know i need bigger
If you can widen those turns to say 12" or better, you'll be in good shape. I use a 13.75" minimum on my layout and I can run about anything. That will mean rebuilding your table to have 3'-wide shelves instead of 2'. I know that sounds like a pain, but it's "pay me now or pay me later." If you can do it, you'll have much fewer problems in the long run.
Another option is doing a point-to-point layout on that existing shelf. MR has a plan in January's issue for a 10'x12' point-to-point, but it's U-shaped.
Lastly, for carefree operation, I've heard nothing but good things about Kato Unitrack. I'm wishing I'd gone that route myself. The Code 55 is far more realistic, but if operations is your game and you don't mind somewhat oversized rails and ties, Unitrack is the most reliable stuff out there. It comes with the roadbed and ballast, and the switch machines are hidden in the roadbed, so no need for under-the-table or bulky surface-mounted machines. Plus, over on Trainboard's N scale forum, they've shown how good you can make Unitrack look with a little paint and ballast. It looks at least as good as the Atlas Code 80, if not better.
Anyway, best of luck and welcome!
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Hello,
I am just moving to N-scale. I have a 4'X6' space and I'm doing my first layout. Looking for some help on a couple of questions:
1) In previous HO scale I made the radius too small and had all sorts of problems. Any recommendations for minimum radius. I see something on the order of 14" for main line, but I have a couple of turns into industries that are more like 9" radius. Will I be forever unhappy with this?
2) Any links/books on painting your own locomotives? I'd like to paint up a special locomotive with my kids names on them (3 boys ages 9,8,6).
3) Any idea where I can get decals made up (I have a logo for the 3 boys I did in power point) and I'm looking to have it shrunk down enough to print as a scale sign for the layout and maybe add to the locomotive as a decal.
Thanks
Cooperbrad,
I can help you with the first question, anyway... 14" is a good mainline minimum (it's like 26-28" in HO). 9" is tight... As long as you use short 40'-50' cars and 4-axle diesels or no more than 6-drivered steam, you might be OK. I would recommend (just my opinion) maybe sacrifiing an industry or two to avoid those sharp turns. Or, if you can get them out to 11" you should be fine.
And !
Any other N-scalers getting tired of Accumate couplers falling apart?
In one wayfreight tonight I had two Accumate couplers go afoul. One was on an Atlas hopper and the other on an Intermountain boxcar. Fortunately, I was able to snap the draft gear box back in and keep them together. Both happened on back-up moves as my sons and I were switching industries in Lewisport.
With N-scale Accumate, it seems if it's not the draft gear box popping open, it's the darned trip pin falling out.
Is it just me?
Army National Guard E3MOS 91BI have multiple scales nowZ, N, HO, O, and G.
Dave.
I thought that it was just me that was having a problem with Accumate couplers falling apart. I had three cars with these pieces of [censored] installed on them. The first time that I put them on the track, one coupler on each of two of the cars fell apart the first time that they were coupled together.
Needless to say, they were relegated to the scrap heap as soon as I could put REAL couplers (read Micro-Trains) on the cars. I do not have any more problems with couplers falling apart.
I would also like to extend my thanks to you for starting "The "N" Crowd".
Thought I was going to miss HO. Not so - Here's work on my two-week old layout - SP Fresno District:
As far as accumates go they're not too bad IMO. most of my rolling stock has come equiped with them(except for the kato and MT cars)And they seem to run fine. I've killed a MT coupler when my dad droped my autorack, also killed one a year or so ago, when a couple bethgons got to meet the floor. the only problem I've had so far (except the trip pins falling out) is one of them sticks open. But other than that I havn't had any problems with them. I do plan to replace them with MT couplers when I get the time, but I've been focusing on getting track and rolling stock. The big thing I have to do before my fleet gets much bigger is get some decoders. I do think that MR needs to run some more N scale stuff too
Phil:
Digital photos on a weekend outing. Just cut them out and rubbert cement them to the backdrop.
Chuck Geiger wrote: Phil:Digital photos on a weekend outing. Just cut them out and rubbert cement them to the backdrop.
They look great. I may have to look into that. I've been toying with the idea of a photo backdrop for my new layout.
The saying is "there is no stupid question." So here is my not so stupid question. What is the best way to apply dry transfer decals? I'm old school - give me the wet decals and I'm happy.
Hello All
Just discovered this forum and so far looks good. I have a few questions hopefully someone can help me out with.
First about unitrack, it looks easy to use but I am wondering about the noise level with it. I have always used cork roadbed and flex track but with the handicap I now have taking the time to lay it is difficult. Also is unitrack and ez track basically the same?
Been an N scaler for about 30 years and would like to get another layout up and running is a relativly (sp) short time. I have a 10x10 room available with benchwork already in place with a 3 foot depth all around. Would like to use the atlas turntable I have now.
Any info would be appreciated.
Jack
Hi, folks! Is there room for one more "polyscaler" on here? I model HO primarily, but after reading this discussion thread and browsing several new hobby shops, I'm trying N scale once more. This is the first step of my new layout:
It is a simple 3 foot x 7 foot rectangle which will feature a folded dogbone style track design. I'm not going to build anything complicated here. I'm mainly wanting to try some mountain scenery and bridges to see how they turn out in N scale. Like my HO scale layout, this one is based in the Ozark Mountains as well.
Thanks for all the information which you've put into this thread. I've learned a lot.
The Cedar Branch & Western--The Hillbilly Line!
do any of u n scalers model snow? i have the basics down and all i was wondering if you use baking soda for snow? it looks fine on my lil farm house but can you use it on loco's and rolling stock?
also try putting a n-scale train set around the tree it looks cool actually. tiny tiny train chugging down the track beside a giant pine tree that is decorated with glimering globes of glass. its kinda cute ...i guess if u call a steam loco cute. too bad i dont have steamer oh well instead im using a noisey little life like f40ph with 3 lighted bachmann amfleet coaches trailing behind. man it sure is noisey im sitting here listing to it unlike my other life like loco a CSX gp38-2 is quieter (noticably quieter) too bad the LED's on my p42 mysterously burnt out otherwise it would be pulling the giant pine tree express.
nscaler711 wrote: do any of u n scalers model snow? i have the basics down and all i was wondering if you use baking soda for snow? it looks fine on my lil farm house but can you use it on loco's and rolling stock?
I asked a similar question a while back. I leaned a ton from these guys. Here's the thread. (I bookmarked it!) http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/898103/ShowPost.aspx
Dewayne wrote: The saying is "there is no stupid question." So here is my not so stupid question. What is the best way to apply dry transfer decals? I'm old school - give me the wet decals and I'm happy.
They make burnishing tools, but I use an old number 2 pencil with a dull "point." Here's an example of dry transfers (on the Juniata Machine Tool Company):
More dry-transfers on the Berwind-White coal mine:
Good luck!
Dewayne wrote:I need to know which of the model railroad magazines is best. I don't care about product rewievs. I want one thats is mostly DIY project related (layout and electronics.)
The two I read regularly are Model Railroading and N Scale Railroading.
Railroad Model Craftsman is really good, too, if you're into scratchbuilding, kitbashing, and DIY. There's a magazine called N Scale which apparently just went through a management change. I get that one now and then when there's an article I'm after.
Dewayne
Thanks for the homosote tip. Knew that from way back but had completely forgotten about it. Looking at prices for unitrack and ez track there is a big price difference in them and that is why wondering if the same thing. does anybody know for sure?
Also wondering what would be the best DCC system to use. This would be a small layout using probably no more that 5 or 6 steam locos on it. Not looking to spend a fortune on it but something upgradable if I decide to use sound at a later date.
Jack,
Another produt that works well for sound deadening as roadbed is topper tape. It's the stuff you get at the auto parts store to put between a camper topper and a pickup truck bed. It's foam rubber, adhesive backed, and cheap.
pcarrell
Thats an idea I would never thought of, going to have to check that out if I go the unitrack or eztrack route. Thanks
Dave:
You should contact the MR IT department and ask them to start an N Scale Forum! - They could do this easily and make it a scale division under MR Forum. This is great and your modeling is superb.