Changing trucks on N scale rolling stock?

[Bill54]

I've been in HO scale for a while and am changing to N scale.  Being new to N I have a lot to learn.  I've made a few purchases on Ebay and picked up some rolling stock with rapido couplers.  I want to change them to Micro Trains type.  The rolling stock has couplers attached to trucks so I'm going to have to change the trucks. 

My question is: how do you take the trucks off the cars?  They seem to have a button looking object with a small hole in the middle.  Does this need to be drilled out and tapped for a new screw?  Or am I overlooking something?

Any help will be geatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

[pcarrell]

Thats most probably just a press in pin.  You can remove the wheels from the truck (to give you some room to work) and then just pinch the head of the pin between your fingernails and pull it out.  Many of the Micro Trains packs come with new pins in the pack too.

[MAbruce]

But comming from HO scale, you might consider body mounting your couplers right off the bat to get more reliable equipment. 

I would not recommend this as you are new to N-scale.  A majority of N-scale rolling stock comes equipped with truck mounted couplers which are typically reliable.  If you swap out the entire truck (coupler and wheel set) and replace them with Micro-Train (MT) trucks, then you should have very reliable cars.  It’s the easiest route and the most reliable solution - albeit the more expensive way to go. 

Once you get more comfortable with the scale, then (if you want) I’d recommend experimenting with body mount couplers.  They take more skill to properly assemble because not all cars are designed to easily accept them.  

 

[emdgp92]

You should be able to pull the trucks right off. That is, unless it's screwed into place like some Bachmann cars. Like you, I hated the Rapido couplers. For me though, the easiest solution was to swap out the trucks for Atlas ones. These already have knuckle couplers installed. They aren't quite the same as MicroTrains couplers, but they'll work together.

The Atlas trucks will fit nearly every type of car. However, if you have Bowser hoppers, you'll have to ream out the center hole slightly to clear the car's truck bolster.

[Dave Vollmer]

I second the motion on truck-mounted couplers.  It's not just a matter of scaling down the physics - what works in HO is not necessarily going to work in N given different manufacturers and standards.  I find any car I have with MT trucks and truck-mounted couplers is as reliable, or in most cases more reliable, than my body-mounted coupler cars.

[pcarrell]

For me though, the easiest solution was to swap out the trucks for Atlas ones. These already have knuckle couplers installed. They aren't quite the same as MicroTrains couplers, but they'll work together.

The Micro Trains can be had with the coupler installed, and they work better then the Atlas ones.

[MAbruce]

For me though, the easiest solution was to swap out the trucks for Atlas ones. These already have knuckle couplers installed. They aren't quite the same as MicroTrains couplers, but they'll work together.

The Micro Trains can be had with the coupler installed, and they work better then the Atlas ones.

Agreed – MT’s are superior.  However, Atlas and MT’s will work together.

 

As a background, Atlas’s knuckle coupler of choice is the ‘Accumate’.  They will couple with MT’s just fine, but there have been numerous past issues with these couplers coming apart under strain and/or trip pins falling out.  While these issues have been addressed (and I think fixed), there are still many of older couplers on the market and it’s impossible to tell new from old – until trouble starts.  I will say that Atlas does stand behind their product and will offer replacements for those that are bad.  When they work, they work fine.  I personally run half my fleet with them, but I prefer MT’s – especially in longer trains.

 

[Dave Vollmer]

I second the motion on truck-mounted couplers.  It's not just a matter of scaling down the physics - what works in HO is not necessarily going to work in N given different manufacturers and standards.  I find any car I have with MT trucks and truck-mounted couplers is as reliable, or in most cases more reliable, than my body-mounted coupler cars.

 

Wow....listen to all the high posters go after what I have posted.

Body mount couplers ARE more reliable than truck mounted couplers in ALL cases.   The reason that Micro trains uses pizza cutter wheels is because of the truck mounted couplers....they are there to counter-act the torque the is caused by backing up a car with truck mounted couplers. 

I guess if you are a shake-and-bake-watch-the-train-go-roundy-roundy modeler you should go the truck-mounted-pizza-cutter-toy-train-look way, but this guy is comming from HO where in the dark ages we had truck mounted couplers (remember thoes days?  I do).  But if you have ANY skills with drilling a little hole and want to OPERATE YOUR LAYOUT. it is MUCH CHEAPER AND BETTER TO HAVE BODY MOUNTED COUPLERS IN ANY SCALE PERIOD (save the tin-plate ones).  Telling anyone to go the truck mounted route is just an assumption of their modeling 'skills' and a trowback to the 'dark' years of our hobby.

 

David

 

PS

I forgot that most N scalers are shake-and-bake-roundy-roundy-type modelers.  My bad.

Wow, that's pretty over-the-top.  I'll take the high road and not attack your modeling skills in kind.  I stand by my layout and my modeling accomplishments, thank you.

[pcarrell]

Wow davidmbedard, that was kind of a nasty business.

[Dave Vollmer]

An example of craftsmanship in N scale...  This 2-8-2 was a 3-month project for me, producing a Pennsy L1s using a GHQ conversion kit on a Kato mechanism.  No shake-and-bake here, just lots of drilling, filing, soldering, and the like!

But, the rear coupler is truck mounted!

I'm putting this in here not to show off but to indicate that N scale can be a craftsman's scale as well.

[ft-fan]

Dave Volmer:

Even though I am pretty new to these forums, I quickly figured out that you are a serious modeler who does good work. You and several others are already in my "When E.F. Hutton speaks, people listen" list, so I pay extra attention to your posts. I have seen some pictures of your layout and think they are great. I am not trying to butter you up for something, only to say that I don't think you need to sink to someone else's lower level. He is entitled to his opinion on trucks, that is ok. You don't need to justify yourself, your work speaks for itself. I would be very proud if my layout and trains look and run as well as yours reportedly do.

davidmbedard : Grow up, there is no need for name calling and mud slinging in here. You are welcome to your opinion, don't put others down just because they have a different one.

FT

[MAbruce]

I second the motion on truck-mounted couplers.  It's not just a matter of scaling down the physics - what works in HO is not necessarily going to work in N given different manufacturers and standards.  I find any car I have with MT trucks and truck-mounted couplers is as reliable, or in most cases more reliable, than my body-mounted coupler cars.

 

Wow....listen to all the high posters go after what I have posted.

Body mount couplers ARE more reliable than truck mounted couplers in ALL cases.   The reason that Micro trains uses pizza cutter wheels is because of the truck mounted couplers....they are there to counter-act the torque the is caused by backing up a car with truck mounted couplers. 

I guess if you are a shake-and-bake-watch-the-train-go-roundy-roundy modeler you should go the truck-mounted-pizza-cutter-toy-train-look way, but this guy is comming from HO where in the dark ages we had truck mounted couplers (remember thoes days?  I do).  But if you have ANY skills with drilling a little hole and want to OPERATE YOUR LAYOUT. it is MUCH CHEAPER AND BETTER TO HAVE BODY MOUNTED COUPLERS IN ANY SCALE PERIOD (save the tin-plate ones).  Telling anyone to go the truck mounted route is just an assumption of their modeling 'skills' and a trowback to the 'dark' years of our hobby.

David

PSI forgot that most N scalers are shake-and-bake-roundy-roundy-type modelers.  My bad.

Dave, I think that was a VERY poor display of expressing an opinion, as well as showing no respect for anyone else’s.  Not a good way to set a positive impression that people will listen to.

By the way, are you an N-scale modeler?  The nasty generalization you made in your PS would lead me to think you are not. 

 

[pcarrell]

There are quite a few of us in N scale who can build.  True craftsmanship knows no bounds when it comes to scale.

 

Built on a Model Power 4-4-0 chassis.  The coupler is truck mounted on the tender.

 

These are a couple of projects in the works.  These are built on Kato power chassis (part # 11-105).  Oh yeah, and truck mounted couplers all the way around.

I'd even suggest that those who need something off the beaten path in N scale have no other option but to break out the tools and get to some real modeling.  There's lots of things that modelers want in N scale that the manufacturers haven't released.

[pcarrell]

David,

You're welcome to your opinion Sir.

I'm sorry that all you see is the negative. 

BTW, can we see some of your fine HO scrathbuilt projects?  Or how about some of those Canadian models you were talking about?

[MAbruce]

David,

You're welcome to your opinion Sir.

I'm sorry that all you see is the negative. 

BTW, can we see some of your fine HO scrathbuilt projects?  Or how about some of those Canadian models you were talking about?

Jeff – Outstanding work!  Don’t let this guy get you down.  He’s just jealous.  So am I for that matter! 

 

So Dave – I'm calling you out too.  Let’s see some of your work, that is unless your just a troll.

 

[MAbruce]

Bruce....it sure is nice here under the bridge....isnt it?  Oh...and putting together a GHQ kit is NOT being a 'craftsman'.

Here is a CPR T1b 'Selkirk' made completely of Brass stock (loco and tender).  Mechinism is an extended Kato Mike drive with proper valve work. 

Try being a Canadian Modeler when NOTHING is available.  You cant even get this locomotive in Brass.  And of course....it runs like a Kato.

I apologize if I am being short...but I am sick and tired of people 'high horsing' in this hobby.  The fella asked a question...I answered it CORRECTLY, and you guys came in and shot me down.  I was just returning the favor

David

Well now, I’m pleasently surprised!  You really do model in our scale, and it’s VERY nice work! But as far as the ‘high-horsing’ goes, I think you had better take a long look in the mirror.  Disagreeing with someone’s advice is not my definition of high horsing, belittling other peoples work over your own IS. 

As far as all the pictures of N-scale work posted on this thread, I think it’s ALL top notch work.  Each stands out in its own way, but none superior to the other.  That’s my ‘non-high horse’ opinion.

 

[Dave Vollmer]

There are quite a few of us in N scale who can build.  True craftsmanship knows no bounds when it comes to scale.

 

Built on a Model Power 4-4-0 chassis.  The coupler is truck mounted on the tender.

 

These are a couple of projects in the works.  These are built on Kato power chassis (part # 11-105).  Oh yeah, and truck mounted couplers all the way around.

I'd even suggest that those who need something off the beaten path in N scale have no other option but to break out the tools and get to some real modeling.  There's lots of things that modelers want in N scale that the manufacturers haven't released.

I love that camelback!  Almost looks HO!  Great job.

[pcarrell]

David,

You're welcome to your opinion Sir.

I'm sorry that all you see is the negative. 

BTW, can we see some of your fine HO scrathbuilt projects?  Or how about some of those Canadian models you were talking about?

Jeff – Outstanding work!  Don’t let this guy get you down.  He’s just jealous.  So am I for that matter! 

 

So Dave – I'm calling you out too.  Let’s see some of your work, that is unless your just a troll.

 

Who's Jeff?

[MAbruce]

Who's Jeff?

Sorry, I thought you were.   

I think there was something about 'Jeff' in your profile somewhere...

[pcarrell]

Well now, I’m pleasently surprised!  You really do model in our scale, and it’s VERY nice work! But as far as the ‘high-horsing’ goes, I think you had better take a long look in the mirror.  Disagreeing with someone’s advice is not my definition of high horsing, belittling other peoples work over your own IS. 

As far as all the pictures of N-scale work posted on this thread, I think it’s ALL top notch work.  Each stands out in its own way, but none superior to the other.  That’s my ‘non-high horse’ opinion.

 

Well said!

[pcarrell]

Who's Jeff?

Sorry, I thought you were.   

I think there was something about 'Jeff' in your profile somewhere...

I'm Philip.

That web address is for a RR forum where I'm the VP of Forums.  You ought to come and check it out.

[pcarrell]

Wow, this thread really took off into left field, huh?

[Dave Vollmer]

Can't we all just get along???

Maybe we should have an N scale thread.  After all, there's BEER BARN, The Coffee Shop, and Tha [sic] Whistle Stop.  What about an N scaler's thread?

Or should we have our own forum?

Rule #1 for either...  We don't disparage the work of others.  We only offer constructive criticism when and only when requested. 

Rule #2...  Multiple opinions are welcome on any subject.

 

[pcarrell]

I'm up for an N scale hangout.

But what to call it?

How about "The N scale shop......Where all the Normal people are!"

[ft-fan]

I like the idea of an N-scale hangout, but I think it would exclude a lot of folks who have good info for us. Unless you only have specific N-scale topics, i.e. wheelsets, n-scale rolling stock, installing n-scale decoders, etc. But a lot of what we discuss is independent of scale and I wouldn't want to miss out on that. A number of people come to mind who have been very helpful, but they are not n-scale modelers, so we would miss out on their information.

Another option for the n-scalers is to go to trainboard. They already have an n-scale forum. I look around there sometimes, but have never posted. I guess I like the discussions that are going on here, and don't see a need to have another n-scale only forum (but if one were created, I'd spend plenty of time there).

FT

[pcarrell]

Theres actually lots of boards that are N scale specific.

There's one on Rails Of The World......

http://jeffreywimberly.proboards100.com/index.cgi?

Stop in and check it out!

[pcarrell]

Dave Vollmer,

I appreciate your intrest in the Camelback project.  It means a lot to me as I value your opinion highly.  Thought I'd share a bit more about it if you're interseted.

Here's a couple more pics of it in it's buildup.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/CamelbackMotor.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Camelbackdetails.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Camelbackbasicshape.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/4-4-0Driveline.jpg

And here's another shot or two of the finished product.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Camelback3.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Camelback2.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/pcarrell/N%20Scale%20Trains/Camelback1.jpg

[Dave Vollmer]

Wow...  Now that, sir, is craftsmanship!  You've inspired me to consider converting one of those 4-4-0s into a Pennsy D16sb.  I'm sure it wouldn't be nearly as complex a kitbash as yours, but a challenge for a "shake-and-bake" 'roundy 'roundy modeler like me !

[pcarrell]

Do you really think you should poke the bear with a sharp stick?

I think that would make a fine project.  That's a good looking loco.  It should make an excellent addition to your herd.

Hey do you have any more pics of the L1 project.  The pic you showed looks good, but it kind of leaves me wanting more.  You know, like seeing something you like a whole lot, and wanting to get to know it better.

[Dave Vollmer]

I regret that I didn't document the project with photos as I went, but here are a few shots of the finished project: