Surfstud31 wrote: I understand the block concept and and was considering two blocks for my layout. I am a sole operator right now so I am not sure if it's necessary. Regardless, I will need at least 10' wire runs. This EE was trying to explain an example of a motor overheating (or running hot) because of not enough power going over wires that were too large. When the amps were increased to the motor, problem solved. I don't get it but then I'm not an EE.
I understand the block concept and and was considering two blocks for my layout. I am a sole operator right now so I am not sure if it's necessary. Regardless, I will need at least 10' wire runs.
This EE was trying to explain an example of a motor overheating (or running hot) because of not enough power going over wires that were too large. When the amps were increased to the motor, problem solved. I don't get it but then I'm not an EE.
Blocks have nothing to do with how many operators you have, they help with fault isolation (i.e. one short circuit and you lose the entire layout with a single block system) and they help with the ease to expand later (i.e. you need to add boosters). My layout is 12' x 13' and I have 10 blocks. Right now I use 3 boosters. I could easily go up to 10 without any rewiring.
Nice pictures of your layout.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
I'll have several long and several short buss wire runs (I only have one long run now), so I'll just use 12 gauge stranded for all of them, and not change to a smaller gauge for the short ones. I bought a couple of spools of 12 gauge wire from Home Despot (one red and one green) and just use them. Feeders are generally 22-gauge telephone wire. Where I need a relatively short sub-buss, I use thermostat wire (that's either 18 or 20 gauge). Seems to work fine so far...
I also drop feeders only every 12 feet or so (thought I'd mention that just to stir up the "every three feet" guys!)
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
jbinkley, what I meant was that as a sole operator it will be much easier for me to diagnose an electrical problem - blocks or no blocks. Without other operators on the layout, then I must be the problem.
Incidentally, you don't find 10 blocks overkill on a 12'x13' layout? I'm curious because I am almost to the wiring stage and am trying to figure out how many blocks to do. I'm starting another thread on blocks and boosters to see what others do.
Brunton wrote: I'll have several long and several short buss wire runs (I only have one long run now), so I'll just use 12 gauge stranded for all of them, and not change to a smaller gauge for the short ones. I bought a couple of spools of 12 gauge wire from Home Despot (one red and one green) and just use them. Feeders are generally 22-gauge telephone wire. Where I need a relatively short sub-buss, I use thermostat wire (that's either 18 or 20 gauge). Seems to work fine so far... I also drop feeders only every 12 feet or so (thought I'd mention that just to stir up the "every three feet" guys!)
Mark, I am in full agreement. I feel that many of us learn adaptive measures when we really don't understand the nature of our problems in the first place. We try something and it seems to fix our problem, so that must be the practice from now on in all instances. Bull.
I have run 23 feet of main with just two feeders, and had zero problems with my several QSI-equipped locos drawing the power I demanded of them. No magic smoke, so time-outs, no controller or decoder resets, nothing. I can't say I ever stacked long consists behind any of them, but I am quite confident that any subsequent limitations would have been more due to my trackwork and grades.
Surfstud31 wrote: The reason I am wondering all this is because I do have a readily available supply of 18 gauge wire. I'm thinking I might give it a try and if I have problems, then just replace the 18 gauge with 16 gauge or 14 gauge. Does this seem to be a stupid idea and a waste of time? Be honest, you won't hurt my feelings and may save me a lot of trouble.
The reason I am wondering all this is because I do have a readily available supply of 18 gauge wire. I'm thinking I might give it a try and if I have problems, then just replace the 18 gauge with 16 gauge or 14 gauge. Does this seem to be a stupid idea and a waste of time? Be honest, you won't hurt my feelings and may save me a lot of trouble.
You could just double on the 18 guage, which is effectively 15 guage, or triple for about 13½, or quadruple for 12 guage.
nfmisso wrote: Surfstud31 wrote: The reason I am wondering all this is because I do have a readily available supply of 18 gauge wire. I'm thinking I might give it a try and if I have problems, then just replace the 18 gauge with 16 gauge or 14 gauge. Does this seem to be a stupid idea and a waste of time? Be honest, you won't hurt my feelings and may save me a lot of trouble. You could just double on the 18 guage, which is effectively 15 guage, or triple for about 13½, or quadruple for 12 guage.
That's true. But where are the faults in wiring likely to occur? Do you want to double, triple, or quadruple the number of connections you have. In my opinion, you only get one chance to do this the first time, and it makes sense to me to do the best you can now, and avoid as much possible trouble down the road as you can. You know Murphy is going to visit, why give him extra places to stay?
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
Surfstud31 wrote: jbinkley, what I meant was that as a sole operator it will be much easier for me to diagnose an electrical problem - blocks or no blocks. Without other operators on the layout, then I must be the problem. Incidentally, you don't find 10 blocks overkill on a 12'x13' layout? I'm curious because I am almost to the wiring stage and am trying to figure out how many blocks to do. I'm starting another thread on blocks and boosters to see what others do.
No, not at all. In fact I find it makes things easier, other than making sure you keep the polarity right between blocks. Having the blocks gives me lots of flexibility as to how I distribute power from the boosters to through the electronic breakers ultimately to the track. If I had one big block and exceeded the output of a booster, I'd have to figure out where to cut rails, insulate them, run new feeds and then wire them to the booster. Now to add a booster I just pick which breakers the new booster is going to power and then move the feed to the new booster. When I went to DCC and added sound locomotives, I ran the risk real quick of exceeding the capacity of a 5A booster.
If I get a short, the breaker indicator lights, I can flip the toggle switch to the block and fix the issue. I also have one block as a programming block so I flip the switch to program DCC locos in that block. Also if I ever want to add occupancy detection it is much easier when the blocks are already laid out. Lastly, having blocks makes it easy to install an autoreverse section (which I have a large section).
Just my 2 cents worth <g>...