The best choice for metal wheel sets?

[Soo Line fan]

I am looking for information on the various brands of metal replacement wheels. My fleet consists of around 150 Athearn, MDC, Accurail, Walthers, etc, freight cars.

So far I have used Kadee’s on a few “problem children” and they seem to work very well. I also use NWSL for engines but they seem too pricey for rolling stock.

Is one brand quieter than the others?

Are the plastic axle points on the P2K and Kadee replacement wheel sets a wear issue over time?

Is one brand superior overall or is this just a case of any metal wheel being better than the originals?

My LHS stocks both Kadee’s and P2K’s; I have not seen the IM’s as yet. He will special order anything though.

All comments are appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

Jim

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I've used Kadee and the Bachmann RP25 metal wheels. Both work well for me.

[jrbernier]

Jim,

  Each brand has specific features that may make it the best fit for a situation.  Most of my cars have P2K metal wheel sets, but I do have a lot of Intermountain wheels sets as well.  The 'axle length' is a key issue and some wheel sets may 'bind' in a truck sideframe.  Here is what I have found:

• P2K and Kadee use an 'engineering' plastic for the end of the axle.  The Kadee ends are quite soft and seem to 'wear' with time.  The rolling qualities suffer as they run(especially in metal sideframes).  And I do not like the 'blackening' on the wheel treads.
• Intermountain/Reboxx wheel sets have metal axles and I consider them the best wheel sets overall.  If I need a 'special' axle length, Reboxx usually has it.  The price of Intermountain wheel sets by the card are quite high, but I usually can get good deals on the 50 or 100 wheel set 'bulk pack' from a number of sources.
• NWSL has quite a selection of specialty wheel sets(especially for engines), and can be pricy.  Same for the Jay Bee N/S wheel sets for engines. 

  The above noted, metal wheel sets will give superior performance of your rolling stock, and are much easier to keep clean than plastic wheel sets.

Jim Bernier

[alfadawg01]

All-metal wheelsets also have the advantage of getting weight where you need it most, down low and close to the rails.

[Driline]

Our local Hobby store recommends "Intermountain" so thats what I buy. They work very well. I am very satisfied with them.

[zgardner18]

I use Intermountain wheels and I have no problem, infact when I was wondering what kind to use everyone that I asked said to use them.  I buy them in bulk, paint them for weathering and stick them on.  The best is to get that tool that cleans out the cups of the trucks.  It cost a bit but is well worth it.  Just make sure that you don't push too hard or it will take out too much and the wheel will be too loose.

[mondotrains]

Hi,

A few years ago I asked the same question you're asking now and got over 90 responses over the next several weeks.  I tried most of the suggestions....Intermountain, Proto, Kadee, and Reboxx.  Here's what I found in a nutshell.

The Proto axles are a little too short.  In fact, one guy had mentioned this and he actually measured them and found that they are shorter than the others.

The Intermountains seemed to be the best because they have metal axles and real sharp axle points.  Two problems I experienced with them.  One, the plating started to wear off some of the treads but the bigger problem is that they are soooooo slick that cars would roll after I spotted them on an industrial spur.  Now please understand that I used refrigerator leveling feet on my layout legs and spent hours leveling the whole thing.  Unfortunately, the Intermountains cause cars to roll with the very slightest unlevel spot.  They are nice if you're running long trains because they probably offer the least friction and therefore the least stress on your engines.  I only run short trains so I don't need the slickness of these and I don't like the plating wearing off.

I settled on Kadees. They are made of cast solid zinc and therefore there is no plating to wear off and they sound great, just like all the metal wheels.  They are covered with a brown color that looks great on the sides until you can paint and weather them but the treads are coated also.  I simply wire brush off the wheel treads to expose the silver color underneath.  If you don't want to take this step, the brown stuff will wear off after a couple of hours of running.

Rebox are nice but they are expensive and are also plated like the Intermountains.  In fact, I think I was told that Rebox buys the wheels from Intermountain and inserts different axle lengths.

 

 

Hope this helps.

[Darth Santa Fe]

I've tried 3 brands of metal wheels so far (Intermountain, P2K, Kadee), and I'd have to say the Intermountains are the best. The have very straight metal axles, treads closer to scale width, and the wheels are perfectly centered on the axles, so there's no wobbling. The 33" HO wheels are now back in stock after a production problem, so that's what I'll be buying.

The P2Ks have low friction plastic axles, so they roll very freely, and the wheels have detailed printing on the inside, but the treads are wide and the wheels aren't always perfectly centered. The ones I have seem to be dirt magnets, and I have to clean them more than my other metal wheels.

The Kadees have plastic axles like the P2Ks, but they have smoother, better centered wheels. There's also a black coating on the wheels, so they don't have a nice metallic look to them, and the treads aren't bright and shiny like they should be.

Over at my LHS, all the wheels cost about the same, so it doesn't cost much more to get Intermountains.

[fiatfan]

Here's another vote for Intermountain.  I use them exclusively and have been very happy with them.  Since most of my rolling stock is Athearn BB, the IM seem to fit very well.  I do use the Tool from MicroMark on each truck before installing the wheels.  As Mondo indicated, they do roll very easily so make sure anyplace you spot a car is level.

Tom

[Virginian]

In my opinion there is Intermountain, and then there's the rest.  Never a problem in 36 years. 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

The Micromark tool they refer to here is known as a "Truck Tuner". Just thought I'd throw that in.

[mtrails]

Intermountain wheels, and a truck tuner are at the top of the list for me. Only certain truck types need tuning, but I have had outstanding results with Intermountain wheelsets just dropped in. I've heard rumors that semi-scale wheels are problematic, but (knock on wood) none of my tank cars, or cabooses, equipped with semi-scale (Intermountain) wheelsets, have never derailed!

I see noone has mentioned Branchline wheelsets... Probably for reason, since I have found inconsistencies with the brand of  wheels, including flange height, wheel face, mfg debris, guage, and axle length.

[Anonymous]

I   use the Branchline blueprint wheels and have no problems and like them

[NS2591]

Proto, Branchline Trains, and Intermountain

[mondotrains]

I've tried 3 brands of metal wheels so far (Intermountain, P2K, Kadee), and I'd have to say the Intermountains are the best. The have very straight metal axles, treads closer to scale width, and the wheels are perfectly centered on the axles, so there's no wobbling. The 33" HO wheels are now back in stock after a production problem, so that's what I'll be buying.

The P2Ks have low friction plastic axles, so they roll very freely, and the wheels have detailed printing on the inside, but the treads are wide and the wheels aren't always perfectly centered. The ones I have seem to be dirt magnets, and I have to clean them more than my other metal wheels.

The Kadees have plastic axles like the P2Ks, but they have smoother, better centered wheels. There's also a black coating on the wheels, so they don't have a nice metallic look to them, and the treads aren't bright and shiny like they should be.

Over at my LHS, all the wheels cost about the same, so it doesn't cost much more to get Intermountains.

Look at what I mentioned above....you can either remove the coating from the Kadee wheel treads with a wire brush in a Dremmel or you can run the cars and the coating will come off and you will see the silver tread.

Mondo

 

[GearDrivenSteam]

Jaybee makes some really nice stuff.

[Douglas Fir]

This is somewhat my question too.  But I'm looking for trucks to go along with the wheel sets.  Any recommendations?

 

Also, what is this RP25 mentioned in an earlier reply?

Thanks,

Doug

[bogp40]

Jaybee makes some really nice stuff.

Jaybee is a very good wheelset. I have found them to be one of the heaviest overall. This may be of use on some of the more finicky and light weight pieces such as flats and others where adding weight is difficult.

The IM wheelsets are by far the best overall, in my opinion but as mentioned are rather pricey.

I find  that now I'm strickly using P2Ks and have no problems.

[Don Gibson]

WHEELS turn in Sideframes. It's the cobimation.

Kaydee is in the metal castings business, and their axles are plastic, and #1 for trucks with metal sideframes.

Jay Bee and NWSL wheels are machined brass & N. Silver, and made to NMRA specs. Their machining and weight add 'trackability' to  make #1 with Acetal plastic sideframes, such as Delrin.

InterMountain are v. good combination of metal when used with acetal plastic, but with less weight. Good 'bang' for the buck, but not for metal sideframes.

Reboxx uses IM wheels on different axles but they didn't know NMRA length from NEM over the phone. Since most overseas manufacturers use metric, and NMRA does not, Owning a set of Calipers might be recommended. 

Proto 2000 are stamped metal, with slippery plastic on the axle tips so they roll well, in most. I have found their QC lacking - but apparently others have not. Cheapest. Best for the Budget minded.

ANY OTHERS I have not tried, so cannot express any meaningfull opinions.

I KEEP a car with metal wheels and Delrin sideframes which sets a high rolling standard. Besides, the sideframes are 50% of the equation.

Any time I find a mismatch, a KATO or ATLAS aftermarket truck is placed under the car. That will find any inclines in warped plywood.  Is that good or bad?

[twcenterprises]

Also, what is this RP25 mentioned in an earlier reply?

 

NMRA Recommended Practice 25, it regards wheels, flange depth, width, taper, a whole bunch of technical stuff.  Look on the NMRA website for more.  For most of us, just make sure your wheels match RP25 standards.  The rest of us either run factory wheels (whatever they may be), or are running finescale or proto:87 (or whatever scale) wheels.

Brad

[mlehman]

I've used Jaybee wheelsets for the last 15 years and are very happy with them. In fact, I can't remember puuling a bad wheelset out of the can I keep them in.

Someone mentioned different axle lengths. I know Reboxx has a variety of axle lengths available, otherwise it's pretty much one size fits all. Here are the lengths I have written down.
P2K   1.008"
IM      1.013"
KD     1.018"

[fiatfan]

...I've heard rumors that semi-scale wheels are problematic, but (knock on wood) none of my tank cars, or cabooses, equipped with semi-scale (Intermountain) wheelsets, have never derailed!

I use the semi-scale wheels exclusively and have zero problems with them.  I should have mentioned that in my original posting.

Tom

[Don Gibson]

Semi-scale or scale wheels are only a problem ...

when commerial flextrak is not in-gauge. The narrower wheel-tread does not compensate enough for  trackage error. IE: Better wheels need tighter-spec rail.

Remember all those posts liking a particular brand of flextrack because it "bends easier"? Guess how they make it 'bend' easier?

We've just recently left the 'cookie-cutter' flang era.

You gets whatcha' pays for.