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operating radius

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  • Member since
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  • From: NYC
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Posted by whitman500 on Monday, September 18, 2006 9:29 AM

Is it any wonder that this forum is going down the drain. 

Yes, Ivanhen made a mistake when he bought the passenger cars.  I'm sure we all have at some point especially when buying over the web.  He doesn't need ten people essentially calling him an idiot for not reading the fine print. 

What does this achieve other than turn people off to a forum whose membership and activity levels have already been dealt heavy blows by a botched web site overhaul?

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Posted by jbloch on Monday, September 18, 2006 8:34 AM

Not much to add to all of the above comments.  This issue is why I plan on a 6 X 10 island layout (would do an around the walls layout, but basement not finished) which will allow me to do 30 and 32" curves on my mainlines (I'm basing it on one of Wescott's 101 trackplans book plans)--these are considered "broad" curves, and thus can handle big steamers/passenger cars if I decide to use them.  You're in a tough position, I know, but in HO you're stuck with the above reccs.--add a side extension, or limit length of locos/rolling stock.

Jim

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Posted by R. T. POTEET on Monday, September 18, 2006 4:36 AM
My first layout (1962-63) was built on a 5 X 9 ping-pong table which I gave 5 bucks for to a guy who lived in the trailer park across the street.  It had 22 inch radius curves.  My second layout (1963-64) was erected in the garage of my house in base housing at Larson Air Force Base, Wash.  Somewhere or another along the line I appropriated a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood and I tried to use the 22 inch radius curves salvaged from the first layout.  My trackwork, like yours, came precariously close to the board edge.

At the time I had three stripes on my sleeve, two kids, and I was a misfit in the Air Force.  I also owned one piece of motive power, a Varney F3.  One day it left the rails coming out of the curve at one end and hung suspended over the edge by one truck.  Had it gone to the floor my model railroading would probably have come to a screeching halt right there and then.  I relayed the rail with 18 inch radius curves and stayed away from 80 foot passenger cars because they looked like you-know-what on that size curve.

My suggestion is that if you can't expand to at least 54 inches go to 18 inch radius and shelve the Challenger and anything longer than six or seven inches - 2-8-0s and 2-6-0s and 4-4-0s are terrific. 

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

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Posted by Bill H. on Monday, September 18, 2006 12:03 AM
 Texas Zepher wrote:
 lvanhen wrote:
I recently bought 3 Walthers heavyweight passenger cars.  After installing the lighting kits and about 20 figures in each car, I found out they are designed to run on 24" minimum radius!
It does say right on the outside end of the box 24" minimum.

The real solution is to purchase equipment that will fit the layout. 


To put that another way, would you buy 17" tires for your car which has 15" wheels? Why not?

A little forethough is advantageous...
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Posted by grayfox1119 on Sunday, September 17, 2006 10:33 PM
One more reason why I went to around the room layout. 2 4x8 tables along the west wall, joined by 36" at the south wall, returning 30" along the east wall, and a lift-out section along the north end to complete an around the walls layout. The room is 10.5 feet by 18 feet.
Dick If you do what you always did, you'll get what you always got!! Learn from the mistakes of others, trust me........you can't live long enough to make all the mistakes yourself, I tried !! Picture album at :http://www.railimages.com/gallery/dickjubinville Picture album at:http://community.webshots.com/user/dickj19 local weather www.weatherlink.com/user/grayfox1119
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Posted by selector on Sunday, September 17, 2006 10:23 PM

When I concluded that my 22" radii were too restrictive for my evolution in the hobby, I added an 8" shelf along both sides of my layout and widened my curves up to 26".  It didn't improve the looks to a gratifying degree, but it meant that I could increase speed, increase engine size, and run my three new Walthers heavyweights...without hacking and slashing.

As suggested above, even a 5" shelf width added to one side of your layout would offer you room to move up to 24".  Not only can you run unaltered heavyweights, but you could run larger non-articulated steamers like a C&O T1 or the PRR J1.

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Posted by Texas Zepher on Sunday, September 17, 2006 10:18 PM
 lvanhen wrote:
I recently bought 3 Walthers heavyweight passenger cars.  After installing the lighting kits and about 20 figures in each car, I found out they are designed to run on 24" minimum radius!
It does say right on the outside end of the box 24" minimum.

I've gotten one running on 22" after much work on the center sill & trucks with my Dremel, and am not looking forward to another 2-3 hours to fix the other 2!
How do you know they will couple together even after all the modifications?  There has to be quite a bit of coupler swing on 19" curves.

I have an Athern Challenger, a Lionel veranda turbine, and other large cars & engines that not only run fine on my 22" outer loop, but just fine on my 19" inner loop!
They must not look very good on that sharp of a curve.

The real solution is to purchase equipment that will fit the layout.  Rivarossi made passenger cars that will go around 18" curves.  They are available now for cheap since everyone wants the Walthers, Branchline, and BLI passenger cars.
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Posted by johncolley on Sunday, September 17, 2006 9:39 PM
Part of it is being an informed consumer, certainly knowing the minimum suggested radius of a piece of equipment falls under that umbrella. A ping-pong table is 5'x9' which allows you bigger curves. but for "operation" to look somewhere near realistic takes really big curves. A 10 degree railroad curve, which is sharp enough so that if there is any grade there will probably be speed restrictions, has a 573 foot radius which in HO scales out to 88 inches radius. That is big for HO but everything sure looks great on it! Your other option is to scale your equipment to fit the radius available, which for yours would suggest a logging line or old-time equipment, with a small engine or switcher, and 40 foot long cars at the most, for appearance sake, anyway. Happy railroading. jc5729
jc5729
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Posted by claycts on Sunday, September 17, 2006 9:21 PM

 lvanhen wrote:
I remember reading somewhere that a majority of us modelers that have a layout, have a 4'x8' layout (just happens to be the size of a sheet of plywood!)  This restricts us to a 22" radius unless we want to hang half of the track off the edge!  I recently bought 3 Walthers heavyweight passenger cars.  After installing the lighting kits and about 20 figures in each car, I found out they are designed to run on 24" minimum radius!  I've gotten one running on 22" after much work on the center sill & trucks with my Dremel, and am not looking forward to another 2-3 hours to fix the other 2!  I have an Athern Challenger, a Lionel veranda turbine, and other large cars & engines that not only run fine on my 22" outer loop, but just fine on my 19" inner loop!  Anyone else with the same problem?

Not since I went to 30" min!

This is on 38" and a big boy.  You can reslice the 4x8 into roadbed. How much right of way do you have? Can you go around the room?  The Challenger is just as bad looking on 28" as the big boy looks good on 38"

Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
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Posted by nfmisso on Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:53 PM
  • Switch to N scale
  • Read the information on the web before making your purchases.
  • Read the package.
  • Test run and debug as required before modifying/detailing..
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by lvanhen on Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:28 PM
thanks, but if I had the space available I would not have a 4x8!
Lou V H Photo by John
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Posted by BRAKIE on Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:15 PM

 lvanhen wrote:
I remember reading somewhere that a majority of us modelers that have a layout, have a 4'x8' layout (just happens to be the size of a sheet of plywood!)  This restricts us to a 22" radius unless we want to hang half of the track off the edge!  I recently bought 3 Walthers heavyweight passenger cars.  After installing the lighting kits and about 20 figures in each car, I found out they are designed to run on 24" minimum radius!  I've gotten one running on 22" after much work on the center sill & trucks with my Dremel, and am not looking forward to another 2-3 hours to fix the other 2!  I have an Athern Challenger, a Lionel veranda turbine, and other large cars & engines that not only run fine on my 22" outer loop, but just fine on my 19" inner loop!  Anyone else with the same problem?

 

Easy to fix IF you have the space..Add a foot on each side that should give you enough room for 24" curves.Can't add a foot on each side? Add 1 foot to a side instead you will still be able to have 24" curves.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 17, 2006 7:58 PM
    Expand =)

--Austin

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operating radius
Posted by lvanhen on Sunday, September 17, 2006 7:52 PM
I remember reading somewhere that a majority of us modelers that have a layout, have a 4'x8' layout (just happens to be the size of a sheet of plywood!)  This restricts us to a 22" radius unless we want to hang half of the track off the edge!  I recently bought 3 Walthers heavyweight passenger cars.  After installing the lighting kits and about 20 figures in each car, I found out they are designed to run on 24" minimum radius!  I've gotten one running on 22" after much work on the center sill & trucks with my Dremel, and am not looking forward to another 2-3 hours to fix the other 2!  I have an Athern Challenger, a Lionel veranda turbine, and other large cars & engines that not only run fine on my 22" outer loop, but just fine on my 19" inner loop!  Anyone else with the same problem?
Lou V H Photo by John

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