Turnout question

[Bob grech]

The more I read about Micro-Engineering flex track, the more I like about it. So much so that I'm considering using their flex track on my next layout. However, I'm at a lost to understand why the largest turnout they make is a #6?  My question is to those who have used Micro-Engineering track: What turnout best matches ME's (appearance and height) when modeling a #8 or #10 turnout. So far my research tells me that the closest match is the Walthers's (Shinohara) brand. Is their a closer match / choice to pick from?

[Don Z]

Bob,

I'm using Micro-Engineering flex track on my layout that is under construction. For turnouts, I am using the Walthers/Shinohara DCC friendly units. There is a difference in railhead height when placed together, and I have yet to figure out how shimming the turnout is supposed to bring the rails level to each other. The rail joiners grab the base of both pieces of track pretty tightly, so there is no vertical play when joining the two different brands. Since you have more experience in this arena, you will probably figure out how to make the joints level with no problem.

Regarding the size of turnouts: there is a person on ebay that builds #12 turnouts using ME Code 83 track. He always has units for sale at a reasonable price. Here's a link to one of his current auctions. http://cgi.ebay.com/HO-code-83-right-switch-12-Micro-Engineering-rail_W0QQitemZ220021766973QQihZ012QQcategoryZ19142QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 

Don Z.

[selector]

If you have a strong constitution, use needle-nosed pliers to lever the lower rail upward and the higher downward until they match.  Place one tine below  the lower rail, and the other tine across the gap on the higher, but on top of that one, and rotate the two in such a way that the railhead heights match.  You would do this with the joiners in place.  I have had success doing this, but you almost have to look the other way...   Later, you can place ballast that will fit below the higher rail nicely, or use paper, cardstock, pieces of sprue, whatever.  Once you have fixed the ballast, it will be permanent and should not shift.

[Don Z]

Selector,

Thanks for the advice regarding adjusting the flex track to meet the turnout. At this point in my naive modelling career, I have yet to develop any fear regarding trying something new. Worst case, I have to replace a piece of flex track or a turnout. It's a price I'm willing to pay in order for my track work to perform as desired.

Don Z.

[jfugate]

If you have a strong constitution, use needle-nosed pliers to lever the lower rail upward and the higher downward until they match.

As I cover in my new Laying Flextrack with Latex Caulk video PDF from MR, you can also get yourself some Atlas code 83 to code 100 transition rail joiners. These little gems work for joining all kinds of different rail heights (not just code 83 or 100) because they're joiners that are split in the middle, allowing you to very easily pull or push one side to adjust the rail height as needed. If the joiner is too lose because the rail's smaller than code 83 or code 100, just crimp the joiner a little bit to make it hold the railbase a tighter.

I recommend you check them out. I keep a supply of these little guys on hand because they're so useful for solving problems like this, and (shameless plug - ) just one of the many little tips I cover in these downloadable video PDFs.

[selector]

Joe, I don't know who made the ones I got locally, but they were terrible!  I had to do all sorts of filing to get the joiner onto either rail, and nearly sliced my fingers open attempting to do so.

Who makes the joiners you describe?  I gotta spring for some.

-Crandell

[jfugate]

Joe, I don't know who made the ones I got locally, but they were terrible!  I had to do all sorts of filing to get the joiner onto either rail, and nearly sliced my fingers open attempting to do so.

Who makes the joiners you describe?  I gotta spring for some.

-Crandell

They're Atlas Code 83 to Code 100 transition rail joiners and they are split in the middle so the two halves can be at different heights, as you can see in this closeup photo:


(Click to enlarge)

You can adjust them to allow joining any two sections of rail that are different heights -- they are so handy I keep a supply of them on hand all the time.

[Don Z]

Joe,

Thanks for providing such useful information! I've already forwarded your information to my LHS owner and told him to order me several packages....just to have on hand when I need them.

Don Z.

[mlehman]

Bob,
I used ME code 83 track along with Walthers/Shinohara code 83 switchwork for all of my standard gauge. The ME track is weathered and the Walthers switches are not, but everything else seems to match pretty well. I plan on painting the switches before I get around to ballasting things. The ties are the same height and when laid, it usually matches up smoothly without any need for adjustments. There are a few spots that may need some adjustment, but as long as you stick to code 83 in both flavors, you'll be fine.

Rail joiners are a bit tricky, though. The base of the Walthers rail is wider than the ME, so ME code 83 joiners are a real fight to use, as they a way too tight a fit on the Walthers rail. Walthers code 83 joiners are easier to use, but fatter all around, so their appearance is less than nominal. I recall that the old-style Shinohara code 70 joiners actually worked for this [mis]application, but they are probably hard to find now. I had lots of those because I also went "basketweaving" with quite a bit of dual gauge code 70 (again, ME track and Shinohara switchwork( on my layout which makes Durango a dual-gauge terminal. The combination works well for that, too.

The only part that's then a little tricky is where the standard gauge code 83 meets the dual-gauge code 70. I think somebody makes a transition joiner for code 70/83, but I just used some judicious fitting and filing to make things work to my satisfaction. Where you need an insulated joiner at such a transition, the plastic usually molds itself enough to work.

BTW, the same fitting issues apply, but in slightly different ways, for using all the various insulated rail joiners. The best thing to do is experiment a bit with this first to find the insualted and non-insulated rail joiners that have the best combination of fit and appearance to satisfy your needs.

[Virginian]

If height is a problem just don't use rail joiners.

[BR60103]

I don't use code 83, but with code 70 I put the joiner on the code 100 rail and squash the other half. Then I solder the smaller rail on top of the joiner, making sure that the inside top edge matches up. I usually try the rail to make sure it will match.