Trains Derail + lose power on switches

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I have ROCO switches and my trains derail very easily on them as well as losing power on certain parts, is there a way to prevent this?
The wheel flange goes between the sold outer rail and the "moving" inner rail and goes straight instead of turning, then it comes off the track.

Also why would the engine lose power? the track is clean and the engine is new.

[Medina1128]

Well, let's look at them in order.

1. The first thing I ALWAYS check is to see if if happens on ALL of your stock. If it only happens on a few pieces, I'd check the wheelsets to make sure they are in gauge. You DO have an NMRA gauge, right?
2. If ALL of your stock is derailing, check the moving rail, to make sure it is tight against the stock rail. I use a dremel and very gently sharpen the moving rail so that when viewed from the top, it comes to a nice point. Then, I make a small notch in the stock rail so that the moving rail fits into it. Also, make sure that the moving rail is not below the stock rail. The tops of both should be even with each other.
3. As far as your losing power issue goes, look to see if you have metal or plastic frogs. When the moving rail moves against the stock rail, it picks up power from the stock rail. If it is not against it, some locos will stall, especially short wheelbase ones, or ones that do NOT pick up power from every wheel. Run a loco across the switch very slowly, with the room lights off. If this is the problem you'll see arcing at that point, just before the loco stalls.

[Virginian]

Good advice above.  I have to ask why you love Roco switches if they give you such headaches.  Anyway, one more thing to check, and that is that the fastener (I forget if it is a screw or a rivet) that holds the movable rail is snug enough to keep the rail from twisting and not staying in tight contact with the straight rail.  It can't be too tight, because the rail has to move, but it has to be tight enough to keep the rail upright.  One of the culprits, if you do find an issue here, is commonly physically aggressive track cleaning.

The loco is probably losing power because either the turnout frog is not powered and the power pick up arrangement on the loco is such that it cannot bridge the dead length, or the moveable rail is so loose, as alluded to above, that it is not getting power fed to it through the connection, or some of the pick up strips for the wheels on the engine are not making good contact - and yes this is common on new locos.  Unfortunately there is more to it than just clean track and a new loco.  There probably shouldn't be, but there is.

[selector]

I wonder if a straightedge place atop the frog and points rails part of the turnout would show a bend, or an arched turnout.  Also, do the point surfaces lie flush with the railheads of the stock rails beside them?  If the points are too low, even though they are flush to the side of the stock rails, they flanges will not engage the points.

[Anonymous]

I'm pretty sure it is the fact that the frog? rails arent making complete cntact with the solid rails.
Yes it is a short loco (SW9) how can i get the moving rails to stay put against the non moving ones? they line up fine, just dont make a good contact.

[R. T. POTEET]

The only thing I can even envision given your description of this problem is that there is something wrong with your moving points.  You say that the wheel flange follows the stock rail into the turnout and then gets wrenched onto a straight path; check to see what the flange on the other wheel is doing; sounds suspiciously like the moving points are not making solid contact on the straight rail - that's the one that goes straight ahead on the other side of the switch.    

[Don Gibson]

 

Hi, I have ROCO switches and my trains derail very easily on them as well as losing power on certain parts, is there a way to prevent this? The wheel flange goes between the sold outer rail and the "moving" inner rail and goes straight instead of turning, then it comes off the track. Also why would the engine lose power? the track is clean and the engine is new.

DERAILING:   Sounds like (1).some wheel is picking the points, and (2). power is lost by either 'shorting' or (3). not receiving power through the frog.

(1) Picking points: (a) file a champfer (45o angle) across the top/edge of the offending point rails to 'nudge' the wheel flanges as they pass over. Kalmbach Books have instructions and pictures how to do. (b) Check wheels so they are all in-gauge. (c) replace the swich - in that order. Mass-produced (prefab) turnouts are difficult to produce totally-in gauge due to necessary mfg.(+/-) tolerances.

(2). If  ROCO SWITCHES are 'Power Routing'types: the point rails will need to get power from the "outside" or stock rails via external SPDT points. Metal/metal contact is unreliable.

(3).Turnouts/switch points need a constant pressure to remain reliable. most switch machines will provide spring tension for that reason. You did not mention if you had switch machines? IF NOT, this could account for ALL the above.

Recommedation: Kalmbach book, NMRA gauge, and Switch macines with SPDT contacts.