Atheran Locomotives

[JeremyB]

I agree Atheran makes the best locos, you have to really bang them up bad to do any damage, In fact i once dropped one off a shelf about 5 feet up naturally I thought the worst when I picked it up but It was PERFECTLY fine.

- Jeremy

[Anonymous]

Hey Jeremy, I like every Atheran I have. More power to the Blue Box. I got the first one and did'nt know the difference between a so called "good one" v. a perfect one. For me, I like 'em.

[Anonymous]

Hey Jeremy, I like every Atheran I have. More power to the Blue Box. I got the first one and did'nt know the difference between a so called "good one" v. a perfect one. For me, I like 'em.

[Laidlaym]

Best way of improving an Athearn loco is to replace the motor with a ModelTorque ATC.

The electric motor starts spinning before the loco moves, it will "idle" on 2 volts. As the revs build up drive is delivered to the wheels. As the load on the loco increases the loco slows and will stop if more volts are not supplied. If you run such a loco on a hilly route you must drive the loco to suit the conditions, more volts for up grade and less for down grade than you currently use.

There most obvious use is in replacing old Athearn motors but can be used for any diesel chassis modifications. They will work in steam locos of course but more re-motoring seems to happen in diesels.

Length over the faces of the torque converters (double ended unit) is 62mm (single ended looks to be about 45mm), max diameter is 20.4mm, min diameter is 15mm. According to information on the web page smaller and larger units are planned. http://www.modeltorque.com.au/

Benefits as I see them are:

These units gets away from the problem that model locos have with expecting a motor to pick up a load from very low revs. This makes starting a train more realistic, the lack of momentum is overcome in a prototypic manner.

They makes MUing better as the ATC equipped loco and the other loco/s won't be fighting like many do. Different gearing is not a problem as the ATC equipped loco will adjust it’s speed to that of the other loco.

A diesel loco will sound more realistic, the noise will increase then the loco will start moving, lots of revs on a hill and quieter on the flat and down hill. Add a sound generator and it’s got to be better still as the “notching up” becomes more noticeable. DCC with sound means you can probably run dynamic brakes down the hill as well.

I don't own or work for ModelTorque.

[Laidlaym]

Best way of improving an Athearn loco is to replace the motor with a ModelTorque ATC.

The electric motor starts spinning before the loco moves, it will "idle" on 2 volts. As the revs build up drive is delivered to the wheels. As the load on the loco increases the loco slows and will stop if more volts are not supplied. If you run such a loco on a hilly route you must drive the loco to suit the conditions, more volts for up grade and less for down grade than you currently use.

There most obvious use is in replacing old Athearn motors but can be used for any diesel chassis modifications. They will work in steam locos of course but more re-motoring seems to happen in diesels.

Length over the faces of the torque converters (double ended unit) is 62mm (single ended looks to be about 45mm), max diameter is 20.4mm, min diameter is 15mm. According to information on the web page smaller and larger units are planned. http://www.modeltorque.com.au/

Benefits as I see them are:

These units gets away from the problem that model locos have with expecting a motor to pick up a load from very low revs. This makes starting a train more realistic, the lack of momentum is overcome in a prototypic manner.

They makes MUing better as the ATC equipped loco and the other loco/s won't be fighting like many do. Different gearing is not a problem as the ATC equipped loco will adjust it’s speed to that of the other loco.

A diesel loco will sound more realistic, the noise will increase then the loco will start moving, lots of revs on a hill and quieter on the flat and down hill. Add a sound generator and it’s got to be better still as the “notching up” becomes more noticeable. DCC with sound means you can probably run dynamic brakes down the hill as well.

I don't own or work for ModelTorque.

[Anonymous]

the only thing I change internally is to replace the metal clip that links up the trucks and solder wire on instead. It greatly improves current collection.

I tried to re gear an SD40-2 once. Never again - the motor 'squealed like a hog' and it wouldn't run in lashup with anything, athearn or otherwise.

Jon

[Anonymous]

the only thing I change internally is to replace the metal clip that links up the trucks and solder wire on instead. It greatly improves current collection.

I tried to re gear an SD40-2 once. Never again - the motor 'squealed like a hog' and it wouldn't run in lashup with anything, athearn or otherwise.

Jon

[BRAKIE]

Jeremy,I have Athearn locomotives 22 of them to be exact and I rate them right up there among the best made..Remember this..Athearn locomotives is like a Timex watch.They will take a beating and keep right on ticking. These are my most trouble free locomotives I own.

[BRAKIE]

Jeremy,I have Athearn locomotives 22 of them to be exact and I rate them right up there among the best made..Remember this..Athearn locomotives is like a Timex watch.They will take a beating and keep right on ticking. These are my most trouble free locomotives I own.

[Anonymous]

I've fould that if you add 9 ounces of weight to a F45 or FP45, they quiet down pretty good, and pull much better. Life-Like seems to use slightly better motors, as I just can't get my Athearns to pull as much.

[Anonymous]

I've fould that if you add 9 ounces of weight to a F45 or FP45, they quiet down pretty good, and pull much better. Life-Like seems to use slightly better motors, as I just can't get my Athearns to pull as much.

[Anonymous]

Ya know.....Athearn is the standard for every starting model railroader. But like some of the guys said above, there might be a problem with some of the mechanisms if they are growling excessively.

I have started to buy up a lot of the Proto 1000 Covered Wagons and just love them. They work well at low speeds and don't have the 'growling'. Kit bash enough and put in a sound chip. (Yea....im a sound junkie)

Craig

[Anonymous]

Ya know.....Athearn is the standard for every starting model railroader. But like some of the guys said above, there might be a problem with some of the mechanisms if they are growling excessively.

I have started to buy up a lot of the Proto 1000 Covered Wagons and just love them. They work well at low speeds and don't have the 'growling'. Kit bash enough and put in a sound chip. (Yea....im a sound junkie)

Craig

[Anonymous]

I started with Athearns. A lot of the guys in my club used to run Athearns, but not too many any more. We are in the process of building a new layout. We are starting with DCC. As a result, most of the old Athearns are being left in the dust. All of my buddies new Atlas locos are DCC equiped already, I have an almost entire Kato fleet (just a few Athearn passenger locos that no one else makes!) that is plug n' play with DCC. I think Athearn can be both good and bad for newbies. All my six alxe Athearns would almost constantly derail on the tighter corners of the layout (22") and that got old fast. They are inexpensive, but they reqire a LOT of work to get them to run well. The Kato's are probably the most expensive (in plastic) but run great right out of the box. They have great detail too. The Life Like/Proto 2000 locos are okay, but they sometimes aren't as reliable as the more expensive locos.

[Anonymous]

I started with Athearns. A lot of the guys in my club used to run Athearns, but not too many any more. We are in the process of building a new layout. We are starting with DCC. As a result, most of the old Athearns are being left in the dust. All of my buddies new Atlas locos are DCC equiped already, I have an almost entire Kato fleet (just a few Athearn passenger locos that no one else makes!) that is plug n' play with DCC. I think Athearn can be both good and bad for newbies. All my six alxe Athearns would almost constantly derail on the tighter corners of the layout (22") and that got old fast. They are inexpensive, but they reqire a LOT of work to get them to run well. The Kato's are probably the most expensive (in plastic) but run great right out of the box. They have great detail too. The Life Like/Proto 2000 locos are okay, but they sometimes aren't as reliable as the more expensive locos.

[Anonymous]

Athearn has been around for a long time. Any old modeler and a lot of newer ones have had experience with them. They have been known to be a decent and reliable product. You can say what you want about them, but they are dependable. As for the noise, a lot will go away if you put a little toothpaste on the gears. Using this method one must be very careful as the toothpaste can ruin a motor fast and make a mess of other things

[Anonymous]

Athearn has been around for a long time. Any old modeler and a lot of newer ones have had experience with them. They have been known to be a decent and reliable product. You can say what you want about them, but they are dependable. As for the noise, a lot will go away if you put a little toothpaste on the gears. Using this method one must be very careful as the toothpaste can ruin a motor fast and make a mess of other things

[Anonymous]

8 of my 14 locos are Athearn, F7 A's & B's, 3 are superpower. One is very quiet and one is only noisy in reverse, the rest are noisy but nothing like the real thing! They all perform flawlessly and to me that is the most important thing when running them. If you want some real noise, I have an old Tyco 0-8-0 tender drive that did most of my switching until it died. Now that engine was noisy, no matter what I did to it!

[Anonymous]

8 of my 14 locos are Athearn, F7 A's & B's, 3 are superpower. One is very quiet and one is only noisy in reverse, the rest are noisy but nothing like the real thing! They all perform flawlessly and to me that is the most important thing when running them. If you want some real noise, I have an old Tyco 0-8-0 tender drive that did most of my switching until it died. Now that engine was noisy, no matter what I did to it!

[Anonymous]

Has anyone else had problems with the Athearn AC4400?(Original kit-form, not ready to run). When I took delivery of one recently all the wheelsets were out of gauge - they were all too wide. I had to dismantle each wheelset and file the plastic gears down a little where the stub axles plug into them to allow me to set the wheels to the correct gauge. Is this a common problem or is this a rogue loco? I've had no trouble from my other Athearn locos (apart from the SW7 I mentioned before on this thread), though I would recommend replacing the strip of metal that takes power from the trucks to the top of the motor with some flexible wire soldered in its place - this improves current collection massively.

[Anonymous]

Has anyone else had problems with the Athearn AC4400?(Original kit-form, not ready to run). When I took delivery of one recently all the wheelsets were out of gauge - they were all too wide. I had to dismantle each wheelset and file the plastic gears down a little where the stub axles plug into them to allow me to set the wheels to the correct gauge. Is this a common problem or is this a rogue loco? I've had no trouble from my other Athearn locos (apart from the SW7 I mentioned before on this thread), though I would recommend replacing the strip of metal that takes power from the trucks to the top of the motor with some flexible wire soldered in its place - this improves current collection massively.

[Anonymous]

Seems to me it wasn't too many years ago that Athearn locos were the defacto choice of MOST hobbyists because of price and reliable operation. I still own and operate all of my "growlers" and still buy them although other builders are making inroads. It's not annoying at all to hear those Athearn units growl down the right-of-way BUT just ordered my first sound equipped loco............If I think a sound decoder can overcome the noise (compliment the noise?) I'll equip my growlers with them. I could get on another subject here but won't. Athearn has given the hobbyist a great product over the years for such a reasonable price. They will always have a warm spot in my memories.

[Anonymous]

Seems to me it wasn't too many years ago that Athearn locos were the defacto choice of MOST hobbyists because of price and reliable operation. I still own and operate all of my "growlers" and still buy them although other builders are making inroads. It's not annoying at all to hear those Athearn units growl down the right-of-way BUT just ordered my first sound equipped loco............If I think a sound decoder can overcome the noise (compliment the noise?) I'll equip my growlers with them. I could get on another subject here but won't. Athearn has given the hobbyist a great product over the years for such a reasonable price. They will always have a warm spot in my memories.

[Anonymous]

No, you are not the only one. ALL except one of my active locos are Athearns. My 2 newest locos; a pair of GP38-2s run much smoother, and quieter than my old locos. But I do very much enjoy the natural "growl" of an Athearn loco.[:D][;)]

[Anonymous]

No, you are not the only one. ALL except one of my active locos are Athearns. My 2 newest locos; a pair of GP38-2s run much smoother, and quieter than my old locos. But I do very much enjoy the natural "growl" of an Athearn loco.[:D][;)]

[Javern]

I've purchased several in the MILW colors, and all run fine. I think it's a pain to install decoders in them though.

[Javern]

I've purchased several in the MILW colors, and all run fine. I think it's a pain to install decoders in them though.

[Anonymous]

Have no problem with Athern loco's have a cpl of them will purchase a few more easy to work on and easy to add details noise does not really matter

[Anonymous]

Have no problem with Athern loco's have a cpl of them will purchase a few more easy to work on and easy to add details noise does not really matter

[Anonymous]

I had an interesting problem with an Athearn SW7. It would run perfectly with the body off, but when the body was refitted it would stop, start, and surge in a very odd manner, whatever the controller (Throttle) setting. I eventually figured out it was an intermittent short-circuit caused by, of all things, the long handrails on the sides of the hood - the parts of these that fit into the holes in the hood were touching the pickups. I cured it by removing the handrails and clipping the ends so they don't protude into the inside of the body.

I've just posted this in case anyone else has the same problem. The switcher now runs smoothly.