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Coupler height matching question?

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Coupler height matching question?
Posted by cudaken on Sunday, August 6, 2006 12:08 AM

 OK, I know the thing that I need to match coupler height but what I do not know is what to do when there is a problem?

 I have around 25 Athearns rolling stock that I am fitting with Kadee's # 5's. I have more than one car that the coupler is a good 1/4" higher than another. don't need the NMRA thing to see that problem! Lower coupler will just catch the bottom of the upper one!

 Do I buy a drop neck coupler for the high car?

 Install a washer between the truck and body of the low car?

 Go from 33 to 36 wheels on the low car?

 Install 30" wheels on the high car?

 I have around 95 rolling stock, mainly cheap LL and Bachmans and a few Tyco's. Some on the cheaper cars have the same problems and still have horn couplers. Ideas on fixing them? One of the reason I run Horn Hooks still is because they seem to stay coupled better with the driffrent heights of the couplers. Yes, I have to pick them up to get them to hook but they stay hooked better than the Kadees.

 Can I get drop neck Horn couplers?  I Know, they are junk but I have so many of the cheap stuff that I like I would like to make them work better with out spending a B unit and a Caboose to make them all Kadees's.

         Looking forward to the help.

                       Cuda Ken

 

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Posted by GearDrivenSteam on Sunday, August 6, 2006 12:17 AM
Kadee makes coupler shims for um dude.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 6, 2006 1:00 AM

So you have low couplers and high couplers, you know that. But  you dont know which of them if any are at the correct height. The Kadee guage is the best, but if you are in a fix just put a 3x5 index card on the track. The coupler pin should clear the card without touching it but not be too high above it. This isnt an exact measurement but its close enough for now. If couplers are too low the easiest thing to do is buy kadee washers. They are small washers in .010" and .015" (I think) sizes. They go between the truck and the underframe of the car. Installing these will raise the coupler. If the coupler is too high its a little harder. Kadee sells the drop shank couplers but the drop is pretty significant. If it only needs to come down a bit the easiest thing to do is find smaller wheels. But sometimes thats not possible and sometimes it just looks funny.

Even though the fix is easier, low couplers are a bigger problem than high ones. They will rub or sometimes even catch turnouts and crossings. This can make derailments, and if it hits in the perfect spot, shorts. Nobody has all of thier couplers totally perfect. Just get them as close as you can and thats all you can do. If you get to a point when they are reliable and the small differences don't bother you. You are close enough.

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 6, 2006 4:07 AM
1/4" out of alignment? There's no amount of shimming that's going to fix that. That's a mismatch of an entire coupler in height.

Even if that's the difference between his hightest and lowest, that's a median of 1/8" - that's a <lot> of offset.
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Posted by SqueakyWheels on Sunday, August 6, 2006 7:04 AM
Ken,

No need to run off to E-bay! Ha, Ha.

Through my rather short experience with mixed manufacturerers, and horn hook or knuckle couplers, I can only surmize that most modelers have this problem, Hence the reason for the Kadee coupler height guage. I tried to buy one a few weeks ago, but my LHS didn't have any in stock.

Here is what I did.

Take the loco that you like best, and start from there. Place the loco on the track, then add add one car at a time- even turning cars around sometimes will make a difference, until you have either ran out of stock, or have made the train long enough to be happy with.

All the rest of the rolling stock will then have to be modified. Even Athearn BB stock- won't be consistent in coupler heights. It can be a frustrating experience, only second to derailments.

And this is supposed to be fun!?

Then there will be the point as to where the expense will override the joy, and then it will be time to sell on E-bay. Ha.

Not me- mine will end up in my 90 gallon trash compartment.

Why sell my frustrations to someone else, LO?


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Posted by jsoderq on Sunday, August 6, 2006 7:43 AM
There is only one way to fix this. Get a Kadee coupler guage and match everything to it. Measuring the pin does no good, as even Kadee pins vary. You also need to determine the problem. Is the car too high or too low? Is the coupler box mounted too high or too low? Is the car floor warped (very common with BB Athearn)? Is the coupler drooping in the box? Is the couipler box cover not attached correctly? So many problems - only one answer - Kadee coupler height guage.
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, August 6, 2006 8:00 AM
The kadee gauge will check your coupler height and trip pin height - it also checks if your coupler is centered.  If your coupler is the wrong height then you can adjust the body of the car or use an a coupler with an offset shank.  The NMRA standards gauge is more than just a coupler height, it allows you to check your wheels and trackwork, both of which are important to good operation. 

Even with hornhooks you should bring them to standard height.  Mount one hornhook on a block of wood at the correct height and check your fleet of cars and engines.

Good luck
Paul
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Posted by Medina1128 on Sunday, August 6, 2006 8:19 AM

Ken, actually the problem of coupler height is relatively simple to fix. If you have a lot of rolling stock, it's still easy, just time consuming. First off, buy the Kadee coupler height gauge. It not only tells you if your coupler height is off, but the uncoupler pin (that little hose looking dooma-floggy that hangs down).

If your couplers are too high, follow this link for shims to lower them. http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82562

If they are too low, follow this link for washers that you insert between your trucks and the car bolster. http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page143.htm

These are both assuming that your couplers are body mounted. If you are using Talgo trucks (trucks that have the coupler pocket attached to them), you are pretty much limited to offset couplers.

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Posted by fwright on Sunday, August 6, 2006 10:08 AM

Cuda Ken

The others have told you how to fix the problem.  I'm going to make a slightly different suggestion after reading most of your posts (again, it's owrth every cent you paid for it!)

After you get you NMRA gauge (to check wheels and track) and your Kadee coupler height gauge to check coupler height do a quick one time check with the gauges of all your rolling stock and turnouts.

Anything that is not up to spec remove from the layout with a sticky that says what's wrong with it.  In the case of turnouts, if only one path is out of gauge use only the other path.  If both paths are out, cover the turnout so it can't be used.

If you're like me, you'l find 3/4 of your rolling stock is now off the layout, and there may only be one path left for a train to run on.  That's OK.  What is good will run very well, and will give you pleasure instead of frustration.  Now, if you have a derailment anywhere put a sticky beside it, and write down what car or loco derailed.  If the same car or loco derails someplace else, remove it from the layout.  If a different car or loco derails at the same location, the track is bad and cannot be used until it is fixed.

Obviously, fixing track has higher priority than the rolling stock (just like the prototype) as long as you have one loco that is in gauge and spec.  Once the track is in good shape, you'll be adding cars and locos as you get them adjusted and fixed up.  Don't worry about how short your trains are for the time being.  As you add more, they will be a joy to run, and your frustration will be gone.

Just remember the rule - if 2 different known good pieces derail in the same place, fix the track.  If the same car or loco derails twice, fix the piece.

my thoughts, your choices

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Posted by TomDiehl on Sunday, August 6, 2006 11:35 AM

 SqueakyWheels wrote:
Ken,

No need to run off to E-bay! Ha, Ha.

Through my rather short experience with mixed manufacturerers, and horn hook or knuckle couplers, I can only surmize that most modelers have this problem, Hence the reason for the Kadee coupler height guage. I tried to buy one a few weeks ago, but my LHS didn't have any in stock.

Here is what I did.

Take the loco that you like best, and start from there. Place the loco on the track, then add add one car at a time- even turning cars around sometimes will make a difference, until you have either ran out of stock, or have made the train long enough to be happy with.

All the rest of the rolling stock will then have to be modified. Even Athearn BB stock- won't be consistent in coupler heights. It can be a frustrating experience, only second to derailments.

And this is supposed to be fun!?

Then there will be the point as to where the expense will override the joy, and then it will be time to sell on E-bay. Ha.

Not me- mine will end up in my 90 gallon trash compartment.

Why sell my frustrations to someone else, LO?


NOT recommended. If you're going to try to work without the Kadee gauge for a couple weeks until your hobby shop gets one in stock for you, chose the car or loco for reference by measuring properly. If you have the NMRA gauge, there's a slot for the coupler height. Just make sure the gauge is perfectly vertical when checking.  If not, you can measure with a good machinist's ruler. In HO scale, the center of the head is to be 25/64 inch above the railhead and the trip pin is to clear the railhead by 1/32 inch. You can use a strip of brass 1/32 inch thick for the trip pin measurement.

But definately order the gauge. We're only talking $4.00 for the HO scale one.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by Don Gibson on Sunday, August 6, 2006 3:27 PM
 cudaken wrote:

 OK, I know the thing that I need to match coupler height but what I do not know is what to do when there is a problem?

 I have around 25 Athearns rolling stock that I am fitting with Kadee's # 5's. I have more than one car that the coupler is a good 1/4" higher than another. don't need the NMRA thing to see that problem! Lower coupler will just catch the bottom of the upper one!

 Do I buy a drop neck coupler for the high car?

 Install a washer between the truck and body of the low car?

 Go from 33 to 36 wheels on the low car?

 Install 30" wheels on the high car?

1. Get a Kadee #205 coupler gage. You need a point of reference.

2. Get a Kadee #13 sampler kit: an assortment

3. Get a pkg of Kadee #47 offsets for those 1/4" too low's.

4. Get 1 pkg ea. Kadee #208 #209 fibre washers for fine adjustments.

Go from there.

 

I have around 95 rolling stock, mainly cheap LL and Bachmans and a few Tyco's. Some on the cheaper cars have the same problems and still have horn couplers. Ideas on fixing them? ...  Looking forward to the help.- Cuda Ken

Oh brother! You rebuilt a hotrod?   What you have is a collection of cars - Fiats, Mini Coopers, Renaults, Isettas, and Yugos, and you want their bumpers to be the same height? In a word -Rotts-a-ruck..

Take one horn hook car and put a Kadee coupler on one end to use as a 'Conversion' car until you have all those worth converting, converted. What you have acquired Ken, is a batch of toys for the 'kid's market that were never designed to be serious models. No wonder you're frustrated!

Ken, 'Mickey Mouse' watches aren't made to keep accurate time, and you know the old saying about "getting off the pot"?  It's decision time.

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Posted by cudaken on Sunday, August 6, 2006 9:35 PM

 Mr Gibson (love your gutairs)Smile [:)] I have never been on Herb!Wink [;)] But now down to the real answer. Yes, I am done buying the LL, Tyco cars and most of the Bachmans. (still like more of there THE ROCK cars in blue) and going with the Athearns for now on. I am on a tight budget and lucky to have $10.00 a week to spend. If I still had money out the butt I would buy 100 PK 2 rolling stock.

 As far as being a Hot Rodder, guess that is the reason I am still messing with the cheap rolling stock. Main goal of a gear head is to make something that won't work run like heck! Guess you have seen a PIC of the money pit, blowen 69 Charger? Well it broke in half from rust and I am not kidding! I can post pic to prove it. I was told that I could never fix it, well being a gear head and not to bright I saved the POS. Guess the cheap cars are pretty much the same thing, it wil take me a while but I wwill figuer it out. Guess I need to think in gear head mode but about MRRing.

 Allso thanks on the heads up on the Kadee #13, that is some I did not know was offred.  

 Medina1128, thanks for the links, I knew a little about the washers for to low couplers. LHS installed some on a Athearn BB A&B F-7 that coulper where off a mile. Finaly used a powered A chassis under the B body and couplers matched. Washers helped but still not the ticked.

 I have some 26" wheels and will give them a try on the high cars.

 I do have the NHRA standard Gage and has helped me a lot on finding bad axels.

 Thanks for all the help folks.

                    Cuda Ken

 PS, Mr Gibson, would you sign my Less Paul and ES-335?Smile [:)]

Hope you did not take my answer the wrong way either, I like your advises but sstill just a little hard headed at this point.

                          Ken

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Posted by johncolley on Monday, August 7, 2006 9:43 AM
Ken, Everyone else answered the height questions very well and I only have one thing to add. On our now demoed club layout we often had visitors with either type coupler, so we did a few cars with horn-hook type at one end and Kadee at the other, and were able to run trains with both type couplers! It also made for some interesting switching! Happy railroading! jc5729
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Posted by emdgp92 on Monday, August 7, 2006 2:21 PM
 SqueakyWheels wrote:
All the rest of the rolling stock will then have to be modified. Even Athearn BB stock- won't be consistent in coupler heights. It can be a frustrating experience, only second to derailments.



I've noticed that too. Some Athearn cars will be spot-on, while the others will need either offset couplers, or a washer on the truck bolsters.

Keep in mind too, that you don't have to convert everything to Kadee couplers all at once. You can always make an "adapter" car, with a Kadee on one end, and a horn-hook on the other...and then gradually switch things over.
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Posted by Don Gibson on Monday, August 7, 2006 4:14 PM

I don't know why, but it seems to be to everyone's surprise that Athearn is not in step with the NMRA, as well as designing products that discourage use of Kadee couplers. BB, RTR, and GENESIS!.

ONLY excuse is one doesn't have a KD coupler gauge. Having one without using it is inexcusable. They're cheap, plus you're buying Athearn

BLUE BOX:  Car's standard coupler pockets have a friction sprung botton that droops, and even falls off when coupling cars together too hard. SOLUTION: is to CUT OFF the molded-on coupler box with an XACTO blade and cement on a  KD #5.

BB Engines have HOT chassis. Metal couplers must be insulated from the chassis. NO #4s. Consult Kadee's website for recommendations OR USE # 30'S.

RTR's: I have will take the #5 (or #40 series to clear the snowplow) - provided the lip has been removed from the top to allow seating.

GENESIS: units' coupler pockets need #20 series to fit, except the Highliner shelled 'F's which take #33's and #38'A' noses to preserve the original spacing.

 

Interesting that Atlas, Stewart, Kato, InterMountain, and most other products take Kadee's without problems. Must be an accident ?

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Posted by jimrice4449 on Monday, August 7, 2006 6:12 PM
All of the above is good advice;   Let me add 2 more pieces.   One, if you have any cars w/ truck mounted couplers either convert them to body mounts or take them out of service (if you can't bear to throw them away, use them for scenery.)   Two, if you're converting Athearn BB to KDs you've probably notice they're all too low.   EAsy Fix.   Take the half of the KD box that has the stud that the cplr pivots on and remove the little lip at one end.   Now shave off the truck pivot stud from the Athearn car's bolster and glue the (trimmed) KD box in its place.   Thus should bring the hight to where it belongs.
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Posted by Don Gibson on Monday, August 7, 2006 7:51 PM

CouldaKen.

LESTER is supposed to be in NYC. Have him sign your Git-tar as 'Rhubarb Red' - his early stage name -. It'll become collectors item. In the meantime, don't take up brain surgery.

You bought a bunch of  leftovers - and expect to make a 9 course dinner out of it?  Fire your Purchasing Agent.

I gather from the Supercharged engine and slot car test track you posted, that you like things that are 'fast'.

In Slot-car Racing the goal is to see how fast you can go without flipping. Model trains don't stay on the track when run too fast. Most trains today run at 45 to 55 MPH.  60mph is an 1 ft/per second in HO and 6" per in 'N'.

It just occurred to me that this alone could explain much of your problem. Just a guess.

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Posted by BRAKIE on Monday, August 7, 2006 8:44 PM
 Don Gibson wrote:

I don't know why, but it seems to be to everyone's surprise that Athearn is not in step with the NMRA, as well as designing products that discourage use of Kadee couplers. BB, RTR, and GENESIS!.

ONLY excuse is one doesn't have a KD coupler gauge. Having one without using it is inexcusable. They're cheap, plus you're buying Athearn

BLUE BOX:  Car's standard coupler pockets have a friction sprung botton that droops, and even falls off when coupling cars together too hard. SOLUTION: is to CUT OFF the molded-on coupler box with an XACTO blade and cement on a  KD #5.

BB Engines have HOT chassis. Metal couplers must be insulated from the chassis. NO #4s. Consult Kadee's website for recommendations OR USE # 30'S.

RTR's: I have will take the #5 (or #40 series to clear the snowplow) - provided the lip has been removed from the top to allow seating.

GENESIS: units' coupler pockets need #20 series to fit, except the Highliner shelled 'F's which take #33's and #38'A' noses to preserve the original spacing.

 

Interesting that Atlas, Stewart, Kato, InterMountain, and most other products take Kadee's without problems. Must be an accident ?

 

Don,Are you serious? I and unknown thousands have no problems installing KD couplers on Athearn cars and engines.

Look closely at this picture and you will see NO drooping couplers.These are stock Athearn.Like any kit care must be taken  while building these simple car kits.

 

 

Larry

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Posted by TomDiehl on Monday, August 7, 2006 10:05 PM

 emdgp92 wrote:
 SqueakyWheels wrote:
All the rest of the rolling stock will then have to be modified. Even Athearn BB stock- won't be consistent in coupler heights. It can be a frustrating experience, only second to derailments.



I've noticed that too. Some Athearn cars will be spot-on, while the others will need either offset couplers, or a washer on the truck bolsters.

I've noticed the same thing, and not only with Athearn. Most recent changes were the Walthers Superliner cars. Some even have different number couplers on each end.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by Don Gibson on Tuesday, August 8, 2006 1:33 PM

OK, I know the thing that I need to match coupler height but what I do not know is what to do when there is a problem?

FIRST thing - as has been suggested  - is  get a Kadee #205 Coupler gauage.

SECOND thing is to set up & read the instructions.

Also has been suggested is an assortment of KD couplers, and washers. (Reread).

 

 Famous saying:  NOTHING WORKS, UNTIL YOU DO.

 

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Posted by Don Gibson on Tuesday, August 8, 2006 3:02 PM

"Don,Are you serious? I and unknown thousands have no problems installing KD couplers on Athearn cars and engines.... care must be taken  while building these simple car kits - BRAKIE

BRAKIE

I'm sure that "untold thousands" have no problems 'installing' KD couplers on Athearn cars and engines. Getting them at correct height can be more of a problem. Did you know Kaydee  tooled their 'underset' shank primarily for Athearn BB cars?

Kadee 'droop' is endemic. It's the primary reason Kadee designed a (#237) tool to bend the metal 'hose' up so it won't snag on frogs. Kadee also sells (#211)shims for that purpose. I gather you have not used them.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page160.htm

ONE advantage of using Athearn car kits if they 'droop' the same - match well enough to couple. For 'thousands', that's good enough

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Posted by TomDiehl on Tuesday, August 8, 2006 4:02 PM
 Don Gibson wrote:

"Don,Are you serious? I and unknown thousands have no problems installing KD couplers on Athearn cars and engines.... care must be taken  while building these simple car kits - BRAKIE

BRAKIE

I'm sure that "untold thousands" have no problems 'installing' KD couplers on Athearn cars and engines. Getting them at correct height can be more of a problem. Did you know Kaydee  tooled their 'underset' shank primarily for Athearn BB cars?

Kadee 'droop' is endemic. It's the primary reason Kadee designed a (#237) tool to bend the metal 'hose' up so it won't snag on frogs. Kadee also sells (#211)shims for that purpose. I gather you have not used them.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page160.htm

ONE advantage of using Athearn car kits if they 'droop' the same - match well enough to couple. For 'thousands', that's good enough

Not quite. The droop will not be corrected by adjusting the trip pin (metal hose as you call it). These are two separate adjustments that need to be done. In HO, the coupler center needs to be 25/64 inch above and parallel to the railhead. The trip pin needs to clear the railhead by 1/32 inch. The overset and underset head couplers will compensate for slightly high or low mounts, but will only compensate for 1/16 inch difference underset to center and 3/64 inch center to overset. As I said above, there is no absolute for which number coupler will align with these specs for every one of a certain brand car or loco. They have to be measured on each one as well as each end, and adjusted. If the coupler "droops," check to see if there's vertical play in the coupler when mounted. The play needs to be eliminated by shimming or filing down the coupler box opening height.

The trip pin tool made it easier to adjust the trip pin clearance as it was easier to get a small change in the bend of the steel rod than with needle nose pliers, which were recommended in the coupler instructions before the release of this tool.

What Brakie means by "taking care" is installing them per the instructions. It seems like a lot of work the first time or two you do it, but it becomes second nature rather quickly and they can be mounted and adjusted in a few minutes.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by Don Gibson on Thursday, August 10, 2006 8:48 PM

The droop will not be corrected by adjusting the trip pin (metal hose as you call it). These are two separate adjustments that need to be done. In HO, the coupler center needs to be 25/64 inch above and parallel to the railhead. The trip pin needs to clear the railhead by 1/32 inch. The overset and underset head couplers will compensate for slightly high or low mounts, but will only compensate for 1/16 inch difference underset to center and 3/64 inch center to overset. As I said above, there is no absolute for which number coupler will align with these specs for every one of a certain brand car or loco. They have to be measured on each one as well as each end, and adjusted. If the coupler "droops," check to see if there's vertical play in the coupler when mounted. The play needs to be eliminated by shimming or filing down the coupler box opening height-Tom

Tom: I agree with you. Bending the trip pin does not correct the 'droop'. It helps correct the 'snagging' on frogs - which seems to be a preferable fix for many old-time  modelers at our club - and espcially those that say "What droop?" It seens that the Athearn molded-on coupler box  has more play in it than Kaydee's, which exaserbates the problem - as does the famous car weight which is seldom flat.

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Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:12 PM

Don,Look at the pictures I posted..Notice those are #5s and there is NO droop..

If you would like better pictures I will post same..

Larry

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Posted by TomDiehl on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:33 PM
 Don Gibson wrote:

The droop will not be corrected by adjusting the trip pin (metal hose as you call it). These are two separate adjustments that need to be done. In HO, the coupler center needs to be 25/64 inch above and parallel to the railhead. The trip pin needs to clear the railhead by 1/32 inch. The overset and underset head couplers will compensate for slightly high or low mounts, but will only compensate for 1/16 inch difference underset to center and 3/64 inch center to overset. As I said above, there is no absolute for which number coupler will align with these specs for every one of a certain brand car or loco. They have to be measured on each one as well as each end, and adjusted. If the coupler "droops," check to see if there's vertical play in the coupler when mounted. The play needs to be eliminated by shimming or filing down the coupler box opening height-Tom

Tom: I agree with you. Bending the trip pin does not correct the 'droop'. It helps correct the 'snagging' on frogs - which seems to be a preferable fix for many old-time  modelers at our club - and espcially those that say "What droop?" It seens that the Athearn molded-on coupler box  has more play in it than Kaydee's, which exaserbates the problem - as does the famous car weight which is seldom flat.

Problem with that is, if you run a 50 car train through the helix, they WILL uncouple. (and that, again, is the voice of experience).

The other problem I've seen with the Athearn coupler pocket is the metal cover. A lot of them I've seen have a rough edge against where the coupler needs to swivel. As a matter of routine, I file these smooth before assembly.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:40 PM
If you Guys would take your time and build those Athearn cars correctly you would have trouble free cars..Those are simple kits that need to be put together properly and that  includes straighten the frame and weight...I am surprise-nay shock - that you guys don't already know that.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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Posted by TomDiehl on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:45 PM

 BRAKIE wrote:
If you Guys would take your time and build those Athearn cars correctly you would have trouble free cars..Those are simple kits that need to be put together properly and that  includes straighten the frame and weight...I am surprise-nay shock - that you guys don't already know that.

But you still have to check and adjust the coupler height, which is the whole point of this thread.

And that applies to ANY brand of rolling stock.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:50 PM
That is true but,by straighten the frame and weight that saves a lot of work getting the BB cars to the correct height by eliminating the droop and #5s can be used.Savvy?

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

  • Member since
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Posted by TomDiehl on Thursday, August 10, 2006 9:56 PM

 BRAKIE wrote:
That is true but,by straighten the frame and weight that saves a lot of work getting the BB cars to the correct height by eliminating the droop and #5s can be used.Savvy?

The coupler height gauge still needs to be the final step in determining the correct height. Athearn, as well as any other brand kit or RTR needs to be checked. As I said above, the Walthers RTR Superliner cars I got last year don't have one type of coupler in all of them. Some even have a different number in each end. You're assuming a consistency that just isn't there, kit or RTR.

Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to. Chief of Sanitation; Clowntown
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Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, August 10, 2006 10:16 PM
 TomDiehl wrote:

 BRAKIE wrote:
That is true but,by straighten the frame and weight that saves a lot of work getting the BB cars to the correct height by eliminating the droop and #5s can be used.Savvy?

The coupler height gauge still needs to be the final step in determining the correct height. Athearn, as well as any other brand kit or RTR needs to be checked. As I said above, the Walthers RTR Superliner cars I got last year don't have one type of coupler in all of them. Some even have a different number in each end. You're assuming a consistency that just isn't there, kit or RTR.

 

We agree there..All I am saying there are steps that can be taken to correct the BB coupler droops.Now,I can ALMOST eyeball the coupler and know if it will be low or to high..Of course I  use the KD coupler gauge to insure the correct coupler height.

Tom,I will tell you this..I have use #5s in all of my cars since 1966.Now if that isn't a consistency then what is? Are you implying that the thousands of us that uses the #5 in cars for years are wrong because there is NO consistency??

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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