That would be the tender drive style. IIRC, back in the '70s somebody repowered the tender with an Athearn switcher (SW7) mechanism. Might be worth a shot.The IHC 2-8-0 is the same boiler shell, but with the drive in the engine. I was able to pick a couple up at a swap meet for $30 each. Run very nicely.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Here are the PIC!
Guess I will be sending of a check for $5.00 soon.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
CANADIANPACIFIC2816 wrote: I tend to agree with what a lot of others are saying about anything from Tyco. I had purchased their "Chatanooga Choo-Choo" in the mid 70's and it was a piece of junk right out of the box. Like a lot of others have indicated, it was tender driven, and I feel there was not enough weight underneath the shell of the engine itself. If you want a nice steamer that will run reliably and is well detailed and easy to service, I might suggest you try IHC. CANADIANPACIFIC2816
I tend to agree with what a lot of others are saying about anything from Tyco. I had purchased their "Chatanooga Choo-Choo" in the mid 70's and it was a piece of junk right out of the box. Like a lot of others have indicated, it was tender driven, and I feel there was not enough weight underneath the shell of the engine itself. If you want a nice steamer that will run reliably and is well detailed and easy to service, I might suggest you try IHC.
CANADIANPACIFIC2816
My Broadway Limited Steam is easy to service.
UPS truck please =)
Is it possible you are running without secured rail joints?
As a child I used rubber banding under the sectional track joints to keep everything together, only to see the oval "Walk" across the floor for some distance.
Today I prefer pernament roadbed or at least sectional track with automatic joiners like Kato or Bachmann.
If I knew dirty little secret of our hobby I would have propley stuck with the HO slot cars. Another thing I have yet to figuer out is how a train can run 20 laps then derail. Rerail 20 laps and off they go again.
Dingoix, if we can figuer that out we could be come rich.
I have requested the seller to send me some PIC, at this point have not heard back from them. If I do get it I don't think I will sink any money into get. After the reviews I read from Darth Santa Fe I think I will try the Bachman they he bought and likes.
rrebell;I have some bad news for you there, podna; I have a Varney F3 w/plastic body that is approaching fifty years of age and it runs a h*ll of a lot better than any of your blue box or red box or green box or purple box or whatever box Athearns; I've only run it once in the last 25 years and that was just to see if it would still run - that was seven years ago and it did - got a little sparking from the wheels - they're brass - which rendered it a little sluggish at first but after the corrosion burned off it performed flawlessly. It's the only piece of HO motive power I have; when I sold all my Bowser, and Hobbytown, and Cary/Mantua equipment when I went to N-Scale in 1980/81 I couldn't bear to part with it - it had been part of the train set that got me started in Model Railroading way back in 1962. Offer me a couple of Athearns; I'll tell you where to put'em.cudaken;Thirty dollars was probably a might too much - at least ten and maybe even fifteen too much - for this turkey whatever it turns out to be but all may not necessarily be lost.Not a lot can be done with the power mechanism but there is perhaps some hope for the boiler if you care to expend a little money in the effort. If my recollection serves me correctly a few years back - probably twenty or so - someone took this particular - or a similiar - Tyco boiler shell and affixed it to a either a Varney "Old Lady" or "Casey Jones", I don't recall just which one, and came away with a very freelanced - and unique - locomotive. I'm not sure just exactly how he came into the possession of his boiler shell but his power unit had been acquired dirt cheap at a swap meet somewhere and so his major expense had been for lost-wax castings - these two mechanisms are currently being manufactured by Bowser who, by the way, also produces other 2-8-0s and 4-6-0s. Some elementary lost-wax castings would give you a singularly individualistic locomotive - won't exactly look like a brass masterpiece but you could at least salvage some of your thirty smackers.I'm not sure I would give a blank check to the premise that one should never purchase a used Tyco, Bachmann, or Life-Like locomotive under any circumstances; it was not too awfully long ago that I saw a very accomplished modeler purchase a used Bachmann at a swap meet for $15.00; he was only interested in the boiler shell for use with a mechanism which, I guess, he already owned. Some of these guys have been building and rebuilding for so long that they can work miracles from basket cases - I ain't exactly one of them but perhaps you could be at some time in the future.Just a suggestion.
Ken, this happens to me every once in a while- Cars that wont derail at the head of a 30 car train will FLY off the track if I even set the direction to reverse, let alone open the throttle. And something always comes uncoupled if I back up and then go forward (aka. picking up / setting out cars)
Welcome to the dirty little secret of our hobby.
It likes to derail! GREAT I NEED 15 MORE OF THEM! THEY WILL FIT RIGHT WITH THE OTHER 156 POS ENGINES AND FALL OFF THE RAIL STOCK!
Having a very, very, very bad MRR night.
Well off the subject but I don't get it. Last night ever thing was running like a dream, hauling 42 cars with doubled headed E-6's on the second line and 15 cars with a F-7A on the main line. Finaly a coupler came undone on the E-6 train, no derails just dropped half the cars and keep on rolling. Well it was late and time to go to sleep so I left it a lone.
Today before I got home the Gremlins must have got on the board with there little pick axes. No matter what I ran, as soon as I turned off the lights something would derail. Cars that have ran 30 hours would derail. Pull them and start again, same thing, a driffrent car would derail. What kills me it is both main lines, no matter what engine was pulling.
I was to the point I was ready to throw a PK E-6 across the room. Some how I keept my self from doing it and shut the board down. Time to back up and relax and let them sit before they be came Air Born, like I was, 118th Air Born, they would not have a chute would become bouncers.
Before anyone try to help with this problem, save your finguer tips. I will find what the problem is, just will not be tonight.
Thank for all the answers.
PS, funny thing when I started this hobby I was looking for a cheap, easy and relaxing hobby? Hum, maybe I should get back in to HO slot cars
I hope it runs.
I had that engine as a child only mine was a 0-8-0 and it proved to be a dismal performer. Back in those days AHM and Riverossi and Brass with Can motors were the top engines and way out of reach. I closed the book on that engine long ago.
It is due to that engines' dismal performance that I seek out rather expensive top shelf engines such as Broadway Limited. I dont get very many a year but the ones I do get are keepers.
Looking at the photos, it seems the engine is in very good condition. If I remember correctly the boiler is going to be a bit light and derail at the first flaw in your track. Track today isnt the hand me down brass horrorshow of long ago, but I would want to encourage you to get the most you can out of the engine.
You might find that the tender side frames is rather "Floppy" I think it was designed that way for some reason.
Let us know if it did run for you.
I look at it this way. A $25.00 steam engine runs like a $25.00 steam engine which is in most cases, not very well at all. I've chanced it a few times on bargain engines because they were good looking (such as your chatanooga) thinking it will make a good shelf piece if it runs like crap.
Several of my "mistakes" sit on display on my cubical ledge at work. Being surrounded by them gives my cubical a homey feeling and I feel more comfortable being at work.
cudaken wrote:So the Nigeria is a Big Thumbs up for the money Darth Santa Fe? Where did you buy yours, LHS or on line.What did you pay for it?
I'd say mine's a big thumbs up (it's actually "Niagara", like Niagara Falls in Canada). It runs smooth and quiet, has a pretty good amount of weight, and is nicely detailed and painted. It was another Christmas present, but I do know it was on sale at my LHS when it was purchased, so maybe $60. $60 is almost half off of the retail price, so it's a pretty good deal. I did unfortunately have to send it to Bachmann due to split axles, loose eccentrics for the valve gear, and a cracked frame. They sent me a new one (which I reviewed) that's in good condition with no defects, and it's a very nice engine, especially for being from the Standard line before Bachmann was increasing their quality to what it is now.
Trainworld.com sells them for $60, but you can most likely get one on eBay for the same price, and see pictures of what you're getting.
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Ken, that Chatanooga you're showing pictures of is the one with the tender drive. In the early to mid seventies sometime, Consolidated Foods bought out the Tyco name from Mantua Metal Products and started having the items produced overseas. This is when the quality of the Tyco branded items took a severe nose dive. Anything from the sixties, Tyco and Mantua are the same thing. My favorites of their locos are the Mikado (I have 4 of them, one since the sixties) and the 4 and 6 wheel side tank switchers, called the Booster and Little Six respecively. Since all of these use a die cast metal boiler and have a good drive and 5 pole open frame motor to them, they run and pull great, considering that they were about half the price of the Penn Line/Bowser locos of the same time period. They're easy to work on and were available as kits (these show up on Ebay regularly). After they went to Hong Kong for the production (if the box says "Tyco Industries, Morrestown, NJ," they were made overseas) they became cheap trainset or the "40 hour model trains." The same can be said for the cars, the older ones had a cast metal underframe giving them good weight and a low center of gravity.
The evolution of the brand name needs to be considered. You can easily say that Tyco was "great" or "junk" depending on the time period they were made.
Hey Ken...IHC stands for International Hobby Corporation. If you have a Walthers dealer near you he/she/they should be able to order one for you. Some shops may not stock IHC locomotives due to a shorter discount (if I remember correctly) than other brands. But they are pretty good for the money. I'll get shot for mentioning this, but I think IHC also runs a big mail-order ad in Model Railroader with some good deals straight to the public. And that's another reason why a local shop might not be carrying the line. Go to www.walthers.com and see what's listed, I think the manufacturer ID # is 348.
Just to make sure we are all on the same wave length this is the the engine I have bought.
I blew up the the Pic some what so may be a little graine. I have yet to get PIC from the seller.
So the Nigeria is a Big Thumbs up for the money Darth Santa Fe? Where did you buy yours, LHS or on line.What did you pay for it?
IHC, being new I don't know the name. Where do you get them I have not seen that name at my LHS. Or is it the short verson name like PK's and Athearn BB's?
All so thanks for the Tyco link.
Thank's to all the people that have taken time to answer.
Cuda Ken, getting steamed!
If you want good running inexpensive steamers, look at IHC. They aren't that detailed (more so than Tyco, tho) but they run really good. IHC makes a 0-4-0, 0-8-0, 2-6-0, 2-8-0, 2-8-2, 2-10-2, 4-4-0 old time and a "newer" version, 4-6-2, 4-8-2.
cudaken wrote:Hum, some say it is a tender drive, some say it is not? If it is not a tender drive, does it have a pancake drive in the engine? When I saw worm gear drive I was thinking can drive. What about the cheaper Bachmans, Train World has the 2-8-4 Nigeria or War Baby for around $60.00. I know they are hit or miss on what they run like.
What about the cheaper Bachmans, Train World has the 2-8-4 Nigeria or War Baby for around $60.00. I know they are hit or miss on what they run like.
If it isn't a tender drive, it should have a medium size open-frame motor, which should be clearly visible between the boiler and frame.
I have one of the 4-8-4 Niagaras, which is a smooth and quiet runner. My only suggestion if you get one is, replace the truck springs with stronger ones, or you'll have constant derailments.
Here's a review of the Niagara: http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/560805/ShowPost.aspxThe actual speed at 12 volts is about 111 scale MPH.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
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nfmisso ........ Which photo are you looking at?
638
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Cuda Ken: just a clarification on my post(s) to this thread, in case they came off sounding flip or elitist.
I can relate somewhat to the problem of the prices for some of the products sold in our hobby. I personally can't afford a Broadway either. And I don't want to get into a "prices are TOO HIGH" discussion as that comes up all the time and being in the business end of this no one wants to hear my thoughts on that subject.
But the reason why I posted in the first place was while it doesn't happen every day, this happens a lot. Someone buys a Tyco (NOT Mantua) or a train set quality Bachmann or Life-Like off of the internet or at a train show and it doesn't run. They bring it to me and ask me to fix it. I'm not a miracle-worker, so there's nothing to do but explain that they got a bad deal. And no one wants to find out they wasted money and no one wants to feel like a sucker. So on this end, it's not fun to explain that to folks and that's why I suggest to new hobbyists, just don't buy them at all. If you are fortunate to have them run when they arrive, they may not run for long.
What I do suggest is, (for example) instead of spending 30.00 on 4 bad engines, save that money and get one good locomotive. Just trying to be helpful, for what it's worth. Hope you continue to enjoy our hobby!
The one with the loco number 638? or loco number 328?
638 is the ebay Tyco Chatanooga Choo Choo, which is the subjuct of the original post or
328 is the ebay IHC engine to compare......
Cuda Ken,
Here's a website and a forum on Tyco trains. http://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycotrains/
I have several old Tyco/Mantua loco's, Yes the ones with the motor in the tender aren't very good, but some of the others are quite nice runners once tuned up. I have serveral of 4-6-2 Pacifics, some I built from the kits 20 years ago.These are all metal locos. I'm in the process of remotoring them and converting to DCC. I've done one so far using a Helix Humper remotor kit from http://yardbirdtrains.com/ They also have several parts if you need them. I've installed a Soundtraxx generic sound decoder and speaker. Now the loco is a very smooth runner, and has great sound. Next a detail kit!!!!.
Hope this helps you out. The Tyco/Mantua locos can be nice and can be found cheap, just need a little TLC.
Robert
Hum, some say it is a tender drive, some say it is not? If it is not a tender drive, does it have a pancake drive in the engine? When I saw worm gear drive I was thinking can drive.
I have not paid for it yet, I will ask the seller to take better PIC. I will post the PIC so you folks can get a better look. If it is a tender drive I will offer $5.00 for his time and listing fees. Heck I am sure the seller thought it would go for more than $20.00 some odd bucks. If they will not take the buy out offer, well I will pay the winning bid. I am a man of my word.
As far as my goal of 10 cars, well I know Tyco is not a good name in the MRR world so my goals are modest. I like to haul long freight trains, but I knew 40+ was out of the question. But I have my PK's E-6's for that task. In slot cars, the Tyco 440 Mag is still a bench mark. There are finaly better by the AMX STR's but the 440's still will give them a run.
Darrell, I will more than likely be at K-10 Wednesday. With my odd hours I work Ken has taken pitty on me and will let me run his track solo when I can get there. Plus I am not in to picking up and moving cars yet. When I was there last Thursday I got to make one lap on the blue DC track, then try to work out a few bugs. Bugs where worked out when the other folks showed up and my train was ramed when they started throwing turn outs to pick up there cars. If you where there I was the Big guy with the Santa Fe E-6's that did not look happy.
On the better Bachmans, they are out of my prices range as of now. I can only dream of a Brodaway. What about the cheaper Bachmans, Train World has the 2-8-4 Nigeria or War Baby for around $60.00. I know they are hit or miss on what they run like.
Thanks for all the answers folks. Will up date as soon as I get some PIC.
Cuda Ken, looking for steam again