which locmotive

[Anonymous]

I'm building my first layout..when i went to the hobby shop to get track i ask the guy about engines..he said certain engines won't run with certain radius....i have mostly 18" rad.. 4 15" pcs.. which engines would run best? (axle wise). thanks

[Anonymous]

I'm building my first layout..when i went to the hobby shop to get track i ask the guy about engines..he said certain engines won't run with certain radius....i have mostly 18" rad.. 4 15" pcs.. which engines would run best? (axle wise). thanks

[ShaunCN]

I would not go with anything over 4 weels per truck . U-28b or f7 locomotives would work fine. Also any switcher engine will also work.

[ShaunCN]

I would not go with anything over 4 weels per truck . U-28b or f7 locomotives would work fine. Also any switcher engine will also work.

[n2mopac]

I assume we're talking about HO scale here. Depending upon your era, I would try some EMD GP's. They are preltiful both in the prototype and modeling world, and their 4 axle configuration will run on your 18" rad. curves.
Ron

[n2mopac]

I assume we're talking about HO scale here. Depending upon your era, I would try some EMD GP's. They are preltiful both in the prototype and modeling world, and their 4 axle configuration will run on your 18" rad. curves.
Ron

[cp1057]

I concur with the others that you should stay with 4-wheel trucks on your locomotives, such as a GP or a switcher engine.

Also take care with your rolling stock. On that kind of a layout try to have mostly 40' boxcars and comparable length flatcars, reefers, stock cars and tankers. Long cars on small radius track can cause the couplers to swing out on curves causing a number of problems.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[cp1057]

I concur with the others that you should stay with 4-wheel trucks on your locomotives, such as a GP or a switcher engine.

Also take care with your rolling stock. On that kind of a layout try to have mostly 40' boxcars and comparable length flatcars, reefers, stock cars and tankers. Long cars on small radius track can cause the couplers to swing out on curves causing a number of problems.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

[Anonymous]

Six axles are out, so are the new/longer passenger cars. Once you narrow down your search, post before you buy. They are also LEMONS out there. Pls post and save yourself some grief /money. Let this forum work for you. There are over 15 different diesel manufacturers out there.
When it comes to rolling stock, the knuckle couplers and metal couplers are the best performers.

[Anonymous]

Six axles are out, so are the new/longer passenger cars. Once you narrow down your search, post before you buy. They are also LEMONS out there. Pls post and save yourself some grief /money. Let this forum work for you. There are over 15 different diesel manufacturers out there.
When it comes to rolling stock, the knuckle couplers and metal couplers are the best performers.

[Anonymous]

The ones that will work best on small radii, will also look best.. have you considered a GE 44-ton switcher ?
This is by Bachmann.
regards
Mike

[Anonymous]

The ones that will work best on small radii, will also look best.. have you considered a GE 44-ton switcher ?
This is by Bachmann.
regards
Mike

[IRONROOSTER]

Check the NMRA page www.nmra.org they have a Standards and RPs section which covers this topic (RP 11) and others. As others have noted, you'll have to use the smallest/shortest locos and cars. The tightest curve is the determining factor, if possible replace your 15" with 18" especially if it's on the mainline. But hey, if 15" is what you have to do to have a layout then go for it.
Enjoy
Paul

[IRONROOSTER]

Check the NMRA page www.nmra.org they have a Standards and RPs section which covers this topic (RP 11) and others. As others have noted, you'll have to use the smallest/shortest locos and cars. The tightest curve is the determining factor, if possible replace your 15" with 18" especially if it's on the mainline. But hey, if 15" is what you have to do to have a layout then go for it.
Enjoy
Paul

[der5997]

I can recomend the GE 44 ton mentioned above. It's the Bachmann Spectrum series, so not bad quality. Also, if you are in Steam rather than Diesel, the "Docksider" saddle tank 0-4-0 runs well on the 18" radius you have. (Having said that, "runs well" may mean after some tinkering with the power pick up on the wheels, or providing a tender with extra pickups for negotiating turnouts without stalling out. I justified my scratch built tender for the docksider by requiring it to do work out on the main line asa way frieght hauler! ) I used one of those pump type toothpaste dispensers cut in half as the tender water / oil tank. It worked out just fine.
As locomotive3 says, post before you buy, and you can save yourself some grief. Rolling stock,as motive power, that is shorter rather than longer will look better and work better. Shorty oil cars are one solution, as are ore cars. (These are short in the prototype because the ore is heavy stuff.)
Welcome to the hobby, BTW.
Have fun.

[der5997]

I can recomend the GE 44 ton mentioned above. It's the Bachmann Spectrum series, so not bad quality. Also, if you are in Steam rather than Diesel, the "Docksider" saddle tank 0-4-0 runs well on the 18" radius you have. (Having said that, "runs well" may mean after some tinkering with the power pick up on the wheels, or providing a tender with extra pickups for negotiating turnouts without stalling out. I justified my scratch built tender for the docksider by requiring it to do work out on the main line asa way frieght hauler! ) I used one of those pump type toothpaste dispensers cut in half as the tender water / oil tank. It worked out just fine.
As locomotive3 says, post before you buy, and you can save yourself some grief. Rolling stock,as motive power, that is shorter rather than longer will look better and work better. Shorty oil cars are one solution, as are ore cars. (These are short in the prototype because the ore is heavy stuff.)
Welcome to the hobby, BTW.
Have fun.

[Anonymous]

well what do you guys think about the gp-38 or 40? i'm glad i can get this kind of feedback..this is the best place i guess to get it..iwas searching the internet madly trying to make sure i got the right loco. this is the first forum i signed up for and i actually got good responses..so...this ho layout is my first..i plan on taking those 4) 15" radii pcs out of my layout.i'm not ready to buy a loco in this month but soon...i still have alot of work to do..also on the car i guess no longer than 40' should work fine.i'm more less going with hopper cars anyway until i expand down the line

[Anonymous]

well what do you guys think about the gp-38 or 40? i'm glad i can get this kind of feedback..this is the best place i guess to get it..iwas searching the internet madly trying to make sure i got the right loco. this is the first forum i signed up for and i actually got good responses..so...this ho layout is my first..i plan on taking those 4) 15" radii pcs out of my layout.i'm not ready to buy a loco in this month but soon...i still have alot of work to do..also on the car i guess no longer than 40' should work fine.i'm more less going with hopper cars anyway until i expand down the line

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cp1057

I concur with the others that you should stay with 4-wheel trucks on your locomotives, such as a GP or a switcher engine.

Also take care with your rolling stock. On that kind of a layout try to have mostly 40' boxcars and comparable length flatcars, reefers, stock cars and tankers. Long cars on small radius track can cause the couplers to swing out on curves causing a number of problems.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

YA, I agree with everyone else too. Anything over 40' or more than 4 wheels per truck is going to give you trble. Some manufacturures will tell you that their 40 wheel so and so will run on 15" curves with no problems. Don't fall into that trap. The truth is most all off these big behemouths won't run on anything less than very wide radius curves without wiping out most of your trackside detail and leaving half the locomotive in it's place. Even 6 wheel trucks are generally too much for minimum radius curves.[:)]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cp1057

I concur with the others that you should stay with 4-wheel trucks on your locomotives, such as a GP or a switcher engine.

Also take care with your rolling stock. On that kind of a layout try to have mostly 40' boxcars and comparable length flatcars, reefers, stock cars and tankers. Long cars on small radius track can cause the couplers to swing out on curves causing a number of problems.

Charles
Hillsburgh On

YA, I agree with everyone else too. Anything over 40' or more than 4 wheels per truck is going to give you trble. Some manufacturures will tell you that their 40 wheel so and so will run on 15" curves with no problems. Don't fall into that trap. The truth is most all off these big behemouths won't run on anything less than very wide radius curves without wiping out most of your trackside detail and leaving half the locomotive in it's place. Even 6 wheel trucks are generally too much for minimum radius curves.[:)]

[Anonymous]

In some cases MR may have review your intended model/models and if you post what you are going to buy
we may be able to "quote" their article. It's by model, then manufacturer.
GP7 , Atlas Oct 01
GP38, Atlas Jan 01
GP40, Atlas Oct 00

I have MR going back to 98 that covers F's , SD's and onther members may be able to fill in the rest. so post the Diesel
as the subject.

[Anonymous]

In some cases MR may have review your intended model/models and if you post what you are going to buy
we may be able to "quote" their article. It's by model, then manufacturer.
GP7 , Atlas Oct 01
GP38, Atlas Jan 01
GP40, Atlas Oct 00

I have MR going back to 98 that covers F's , SD's and onther members may be able to fill in the rest. so post the Diesel
as the subject.

[Anonymous]

i am doing my first ho layout, after getting info on the loco, i decided to go with the gp 38 or 40 and u28band maybe a dash-8..the other guys said post before you buy because of lemons out there....can i get some help on this??? thanks

[Anonymous]

i am doing my first ho layout, after getting info on the loco, i decided to go with the gp 38 or 40 and u28band maybe a dash-8..the other guys said post before you buy because of lemons out there....can i get some help on this??? thanks

[Anonymous]

I can respond to the HO Atlas GP38 & 40 tonight when I get home.
From what I recall Atlas is a very good name and almost problem free.

Need a better description on the Dash 8?

[Anonymous]

I can respond to the HO Atlas GP38 & 40 tonight when I get home.
From what I recall Atlas is a very good name and almost problem free.

Need a better description on the Dash 8?

[Anonymous]

An Atherns GP 38-2, f7, sw1500, or GP9 will not run on 15" or 18" radius reliably without derailing. Neither will a Walthers dash 8 -40b. These are great locos, they just will not turn that tight in real life, The frount wheels come out always to the outside. Any car over 40" will also have trouble. My remaining 18" radius turns are off limits to all traffic anymore. I would pull them but they are part of my original layout and it's sacred. I advise again't tight turns and wish someone had warned me when I first started. 22" is almost too tight, 80+foot cars will not run on them.

[Anonymous]

An Atherns GP 38-2, f7, sw1500, or GP9 will not run on 15" or 18" radius reliably without derailing. Neither will a Walthers dash 8 -40b. These are great locos, they just will not turn that tight in real life, The frount wheels come out always to the outside. Any car over 40" will also have trouble. My remaining 18" radius turns are off limits to all traffic anymore. I would pull them but they are part of my original layout and it's sacred. I advise again't tight turns and wish someone had warned me when I first started. 22" is almost too tight, 80+foot cars will not run on them.

[der5997]

That's odd, flea. My Athern GP9s (or were they 7s, but that's another story[:)] ) ran well on 18" radius curves. I did have 22" transition sections, maybe that helped?

[der5997]

That's odd, flea. My Athern GP9s (or were they 7s, but that's another story[:)] ) ran well on 18" radius curves. I did have 22" transition sections, maybe that helped?