Cleaning track?

[zgardner18]

How do you clean YOUR track? Is there a "best" way? To each his own, I'm sure, but I would like your useful input.

[cmrproducts]

PLW the MRR Myth Busters – #3 - The Myth is:

You have to clean your track all the time


No you don’t! This Myth was busted back in July of 2003.

It has been 34 months (that's 2 months short of 3 years now) since I have cleaned ANY track on my home layout (and we run OPs sessions every other week)!

I had a Mini OP in April (2006) and did not waste time cleaning my track for that and had 24 operators in to run the layout. All of the sound engines ran great!

So what is my secret? Metal Polish!

I don’t use sanding sponges or blocks, erasers or any kind of Alcohol, paint thinner, Goo-Gone nor any other liquid. Neither do I use any kind of cleaning car.

Just used a little metal polish on an old piece of HO cork and hand rubbed on the rails and then buffed the rails again with a clean piece of cork.

Prior to the metal polish I was spending hours cleaning the track to get ready for an OPs session. And then we had to keep cleaning the engine wheels several times through out the evening OPs. And I had every type of cleaning car there was and none of them did any good as I still had to clean the track over and over again. I was not happy way back then!

But once the metal polish was tried (and I thought that this stuff ain’t gonna’ work - Boy was I wrong!) I have been happily running my layout and not having to even think about cleaning my track!

Just one happy model railroader. BTW - I have over 2800 feet of track on the layout and with over 50 engines and 850 cars it was a major project to move all or that equipment just to clean the track but no more!

>>>All of these techniques have been proven on a HO scale home layout with over 15 scale miles of mainline track and has over 2800 feet of track (42 scale miles) total in place, so far. The layout hosts bi-weekly Operations and yearly OPTUD’s (OP Till U Drop) 12 hour sessions and has had up to 40 operators at some of these sessions. The layout runs Digitrax DCC Radio. All of these so called MRR Myths have been Busted as this layout has been in operation for over 5 years and we have proven these over and over again.<<<

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[ErnieC]

Bob,
Hope you're right, just polished my N scale layout. Now to see if it still runs. BTW, the cork works great to apply and buff. Actually used HO cork cut into small squares.
Ernie C

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Metal polish? Is that a brand name
Jim

[johnm151]

Do you mean the old Brasso that we used to polish our brass in the Army?

[modelmaker51]

I read here some time ago NOT to use Brasso. I believe Bob is referring to chrome wheel polish.

[Anonymous]

I just hope results are not locale-specific. Unfortunately, the only location I have for a layout is in my garage, rather than a nice, clean, spare room.

[cmrproducts]

Use either Blue Magic (Wal-Mart or Auto Parts stores) - Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (Auto Parts stores - Wal-Mart).

Just about any type of metal polish can be used EXCEPT Brasso.

Brasso leaves an oily fini***o the surface. And many Chrome cleaners also leave an oily finish.

The Blue Magic leaves a dry finish and this helps keep the dust and dirt from sticking to the wheels.

I have noticed that the polish is slowly transferring to my few cars that have plastic wheels and they are not picking up the dirt like they used to.

Others recommend MAAS (brand name) and Filtz (brand name) which are quite expensive for the amount you get and they are sometimes hard to find. While some can argue that these are better I figure that if I only have to polish my track once every 3 years or so then the cost is not really a factor.

I look at it this way. If the stuff works then great. I just want to be able to find it at 1am if I need it and Wal-Mart is open when I need it and the stuff works!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[Alantrains]

Any Aussies have an Oz brand name that works?

[Virginian]

I am not criticizing your technique or preferences, but where in the world did the Brasso "oily residue" come from? If one applies Brasso and just lets it sit and dry, it quickly dries to a chalk like powder. I admit I have not run a chemical analysis, but I sure haven't seen anything in 45 years to make me think "oily".
I believe "Mother's" has wax in it; don't know about the Blue Magic stuff. I usually use Flitz or Semichrome on new track to get off any residue of manufacturing 'stuff', and thereafter only laquer thinner or acetone, and that very rarely. I once knew a guy who ran every piece of new track thru a quick buffing with very mild abrasive compound and a wipedown with laquer thinner. That seemed to work well. I didn't have a buffer, so that's how I came up with my 'technique'. There are no doubt hundreds of variations that work fine. And to the people that love the Bright Boys, etc., more power to them too.

[cmrproducts]

Yes the Mothers has wax in it but it leaves no residue the same as the Blue Magic.

And NO the wax is not going to reduce the traction of the engines.

Use the Brasso if you wish. But the method I have used speaks for itself.

Your Mileage May Vary

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I used the GLEAM method that was posted earlier this month and I haven't had to touch my track since, except for a little dusting to remove plaster dust as I'm destroying a part of the old layout that is no longer needed. I used to have to clean my track every few days.
The Blue Magic polish WORKS!

[zgardner18]

Wow, guys I never thought or have been told to poli***he tracks. I have Blue Magic at home that I use on my wheels for my truck, so I'm in good shape there.

What about polishing your wheels for your engines, do you need to do that? What is the best way to clean them too?

I've been told to wet a paper towel with rubbing alcohol and place it between the engine and the tracks. Hold the engine as you power it up so that the wheels will rotate. Is this a good technique?

[cmrproducts]

Yep! Thats the way to do it!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[ngartshore350]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Alantrains

Any Aussies have an Oz brand name that works?

Hey Alantrains,

I haven't used any polish yet but I am going to start! I have been using some chemical product (can't remember the brand name, but is sold by hobby shops) it supposidly takes off the oxidisation and prevents it comming back (I'm not so sure?!) but it leaves an oily residue and doesn't seem to last too long. I am going to give the Mothers a go, I have nothing to lose. As for Aussie brands I can't think of any, but Mothers is available at most Autobarn stores here in Brisbane.

Hey Bob, thanks for the tip on using the cork, I never would have thought of that! I used a rag once and found it left it all on the sleepers and I couldn't get it off.

Regards,

NG

[Alantrains]

NG,
looks like a trip to autobahn is coming up. let me know how you get on. I'm using peco NS track and some of that cheap NS track too.
Will let you know how I get on. I have some old AHM locos with pllastic tyres on ione side so it will be interesting to see what they do too.
cheers

[canadian351]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts


Just used a little metal polish on an old piece of HO cork and hand rubbed on the rails and then buffed the rails again with a clean piece of cork.

Just to clarify, you are putting the metal polish on a piece of cork then applying it to the track. You then rub it in by hand and finally you buff it with a piece of cork. Is this right?

Thanks.

[selector]

QUOTE: Originally posted by canadian351

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts


Just used a little metal polish on an old piece of HO cork and hand rubbed on the rails and then buffed the rails again with a clean piece of cork.

Just to clarify, you are putting the metal polish on a piece of cork then applying it to the track. You then rub it in by hand and finally you buff it with a piece of cork. Is this right?

Thanks.

That is correct, although you could use a cloth wrapped around your finger, too. In fact, I feel that a small leftover chunk of extruded foam would also work.

The big error to avoid is using more than a drop or two of the mag wheel polish on the applicator. You don't want it running down the sides of the rails and onto your ties/sleepers. You only want enough to clean the running surface of the wheels and/or the rails. So, rub on, let dry for a few minutes, and then buff.

[cmrproducts]

One reason I am using the cork roadbed (besides I have a ton from my old layout) is I found that it did not seem to fall apart as fast as the others I tried.

I began using a cloth and found that at any rail joints it would snag and begin to leave little bits of lint. While finding the sharp edges on the trackwork, I would fix them using a small file, it was the lint that I really did not like. I figured that I did not need any more dust on the layout so I began trying other methods.

On a friends layout we tried the small pieces of Homasote. It worked almost as good as the cork but it too began to leave little bits of material as it went along.

So I am wondering if the foam might do the same thing as it wears down!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[BRAKIE]

QUOTE: Originally posted by zgardner18

How do you clean YOUR track? Is there a "best" way? To each his own, I'm sure, but I would like your useful input.

I use Radio Shack's Channel Turner Cleaner twice a year and use a Bright Boy if needed between cleanings.

[selector]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts

One reason I am using the cork roadbed (besides I have a ton from my old layout) is I found that it did not seem to fall apart as fast as the others I tried.

I began using a cloth and found that at any rail joints it would snag and begin to leave little bits of lint. While finding the sharp edges on the trackwork, I would fix them using a small file, it was the lint that I really did not like. I figured that I did not need any more dust on the layout so I began trying other methods.

On a friends layout we tried the small pieces of Homasote. It worked almost as good as the cork but it too began to leave little bits of material as it went along.

So I am wondering if the foam might do the same thing as it wears down!

BOB H – Clarion, PA

Bob, I am positive that all items will break down given the right conditions.

I took Chuck's timely advice this time around and bevelled all joining ends of my trackage, turnouts and all, so that speeding trains wouldn't get their flanges kicked by the sharp cut edges. I filed all of them, so I assume that an item such as cork or foam rubbed flat along the rail tops would get little impediment from the edges that would surely damage them...and yes, especially the foam or cloth.

FWIW, in the year plus that I had the old layout, I used chunks of extruded blue Dow Styrospan, and found that it showed nothing more than rail-top impressions and dark skids from doing the cleaning. Also, to be fair, I only used it for small sections, and seldom. In the 13 months that I had the layout, I never once made it a point of spending an hour buffing the entire track.. just 'cuz. I didn't seem to have the need by the time 12 months had passed...everything still ran just fine.

[cmrproducts]

The only reason I mentioned about the sharp edges is that there are those modelers that refuse to remove the sharp edges on the ends of the rails and turnouts, and then wonder why the material shreds, leaves lint, let alone causing derailments.

BOB H - Clarion, PA