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Miniatronics Electrak Clean II

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
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Miniatronics Electrak Clean II
Posted by claycts on Sunday, April 9, 2006 1:25 PM
Got one not impressed, anybody else using one?
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
  • Member since
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  • From: Colorful Colorado
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Posted by Texas Zepher on Sunday, April 9, 2006 6:42 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

Got one not impressed,

Why?
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 9, 2006 7:51 PM
I was leery of it. Right up there with the Burmese Gas Snake that eats the power robbing Red K-cells in your fuel tank.
  • Member since
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  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
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Posted by claycts on Sunday, April 9, 2006 8:33 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Texas Zepher

QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts

Got one not impressed,

Why?

Does not WORK. $119.00 and must be PUSHED by a loco. So I did around the SHORT main (132 ft) let it run for almost 40 min. Track still dirrty as when I started. Took an MDC Box Cad track cleaner and PULEDD it around 3 times and it was CLEAN.
Afraid of how long it would take on the long main (600+ ft)
I still use the 0-5-0 wher I can.
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorful Colorado
  • 8,639 posts
Posted by Texas Zepher on Monday, April 10, 2006 8:06 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by claycts
$119.00 and must be PUSHED by a loco.

I believe the promotional material states that.

QUOTE: Does not WORK. ... So I did around the SHORT main (132 ft) let it run for almost 40 min. Track still dirrty as when I started. Took an MDC Box Cad track cleaner and PULEDD it around 3 times and it was CLEAN.

Are you using it with DC or DCC? What are you using to determine if the track is clean?
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
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Miniatronics Electrak Clean II
Posted by claycts on Monday, April 10, 2006 9:42 PM
I pushed it on DCC with an RS-1. I used a cotton pad to wipe the tracks and still got BLACK after allowing it to run and run.
I have disconnected all DC from the track since we got the DCC perfected. I could jumper the DC BUT that would still leave about 70 feet of reverse loop track that would NOT get cleaned. DC lcoc not happ with PSrev at all.
I am geeting one of Tony's clean machines to try next. If that fails I will build one like in the old days. N/S has got to easier to clean then brass was.
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,774 posts
Posted by cmrproducts on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 8:39 AM
Using Mother mag Wheel metal Polish ends all cleaning for a year at a time.

I have not had to clean my track (all 2800 feet) since July 2003.

BOB H - Clarion, PA
  • Member since
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 9:44 AM
My understanding of the technology involved with the MiniaTronics cleaner is that you must still wipe off the burned dirt with a separate track cleaning car or by hand.

We use Tony's CMX Clean Machine filled with lacquer thinner on the tracks we can't reach to clean by hand, and NevrDull Magic Wadding Polish or similar metal polish on the track that can be cleaned by hand on our HO scale club layout. We only have to clean track annually.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:15 PM
The trackcleaning topic pops up here every once in while. I read here that when the fatory makes the rail, the head is not finished (buffed). This means there are tiny "pits" on teh rail head, which collect all kinds of dirt and undesirables. It was stated that if you can poi***he rail head, cleaning would drop dramatically.

Then the discussion between polishes and abasives went on for a page. The bottom line was that no mater how it is done, either by mechanical (sandpapers or emery cloth) or chemical (liquid or paste polishes) means, teh rail head had to be finished.

In my own experience, I tried all types of cleaners, alcohol, goo-gone, etc. and several types of abrasives (bright boy, fine sandpaper), and finally metal poishes. Each worked well for about a week, but I still found areas of dirt and had to clean again.

I then used a liquid metal polish, and really, really buffed, let dry and buffed more. The railhead was smoother than I thought possible. The result was I have not cleaned the tracks for about 6 months and even after not running trains for a week, have not had to clean the rails.

I guess the person who posted that the rail head needs to be polished was correct. Even with the smooth rail head, I did not notice any wheel slippage or loss of pulling power. Polish away! Hope this helps.
  • Member since
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  • From: AIKEN S.C. & Orange Park Fl.
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Posted by claycts on Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:41 AM
Polish has got to be better than just throwing money at it. I have about 6 or 8 different ones that we use on the cars plus a polish from Ball & Ball that is the ultimate for fine metal.
The black from the rails I ASSUME is the silver in the nickel silver rail tarnishing. Will do the hidden tracks 1st since once the scenery will makeit harder later.
Thank you all for your input.
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!

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