Turntable SUB assembly

[claycts]

Putting in a 130ft Walthers and was thinking about building it on the bench and then insert the table, track, and roundhouse track into the layout. Figure on 1/2" pltwood and 1x3 fro the frame then make a drop in on the layout for it.
Any thoughts about this idea??
Take Care
George P.

[tomikawaTT]

Probably the best way to go about it. I didn't use that technique when I installed my present TT (and it shows,) but will when I build the turntable for the engine change facility that is approaching the construction phase.

It's always easier to work sitting down at a table than leaning over the benchwork.

Chuck

[selector]

George, that would certainly do it, and then some. I have not seen the 130'er, but if it is like the 90'er, it has a slight lip on the pit circumference. I set my 90'er on the lip, using the lip of a slightly larger hole cut in my foam for support. However, the pit in one or two spots, is actually resting on the smaller hole I made in the plywood, beneath it all. So, foam cut to the correct size for the lip, and the plywood cut to the size that would accommodate the pit, all of which left the bridge at the right height so that its rails matched the incoming track exactly. As you can guess, that took some doing, because getting the plywood hole the right size and shape for the motor housing and the pit to rest properly took a lot of sawing and filing. Still, once I got it right, I have not looked back.

I think that framing it would be fine so that you can drop it in, but it may take about the same effort and time. An advantage, though, is that you can whisk that module out for a quick maintenance session, and you can add it, as is, to a later layout.

So,....

[Anonymous]

Ok, I just finished installing the 90 table. I am laying tracks on 1 1/2" of foam on top of 1/4" plywood. The foam was cut to a diameter just under that of the TT pit. I still had to cut a hole in the plywood to the rough outline of the TT drive mechanism assembly. I put a piece of pipe strap under the drive mechanism and used short 3/4" drywall screws to secure it in place, this gives the entire TT extra support. TT works great and looks pretty good too.

What do you think ?
BTW, I just started building the roundhouse.

[TBat55]

Since I'm planning a 32" balloon track around a 130' TT & 9-stall roundhouse, I need to make it removable for maintenance and detailing (too far to reach). I plan to raise all of this up from BELOW so the TT approach track and scenery will extend an inch or two beyond the giant hole. I'll have the TT & RH on it's own wheeled frame (almost like a U-shaped layout going around a TT "layout").

[claycts]

Dan yours looks great, want to travel to S.C. and build 3 more? With a 90ft, 98ft AND the 130ft to do I will use the sub assembly method for all. The club idea was to build the module with 6" of track off the table then just add track as required. My thought was that was fine for the small tabels since the roundhouses for those are 6 stall and 5 stall BUT the 130 has 24 stalls and I do not see lifting that off the track to pull the table up.
If I cann keep the module so that 3 people can lift it and transport is SHOULD work, I hope.
Thanks all[:D]