suitcase connectors

[olequa]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Mastiffdog

Guys, I use these and they work great:



I have recommended these on this forum in several threads. Try 'em, you'll like 'em.

Here's the link so you can see it better than the image above:

http://www.posi-lock.com/NewFiles/posi-tap_n2_a.jpg

Do you have to thread the 'hot' lead thru the device or does the device have a slot sot that it just slips onto the wire?

[Pruitt]

QUOTE: Originally posted by maandg

My experiences are the same as Joe's. Mine have been in place for nearly five years with no problems whatsoever. By the way, I also solder every rail joiner and have power feeders every 3 to 4 feet. When dealing with 12-gauge bus wires, I find them particularly useful. I respect the opinions of those who have had trouble with them, but in my case, I hardily recommend them.

If I begin to have problems in another 10 years, I'll be the first to admit my mistake. I'll just be happy to have survived the bird flu. [;)]

Slightly off the subject, Cliff, but that's a nice scene in your signature. The backdrop really adds to it - did you take the photo yourself, or is it a commercial product?

[Soo Line fan]

QUOTE: Originally posted by olequa


Do you have to thread the 'hot' lead thru the device or does the device have a slot sot that it just slips onto the wire?

I was wondering the same thing. I found this graphic:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm

Jim

[tomikawaTT]

Regardless of how you connect your wiring (my opinion is in my earlier posting to this thread) there are tremendous advantages to keeping all of it right at the edge of the aisleway, behind easily-removed sections of valance. Bringing every drop wire, switch machine connection and signal or building lamp lead directly to the table edge means:

All soldering is done at tabletop level, not overhead.
It's easy to use terminal strips.
Absolutely no need to stand on one's head to do under-the-table electrical work.
Easy to neatly cable everything.
Connector labels can be read without a flashlight.

You don't label your connectors? Next time you have to troubleshoot an electrical glitch, you'll be wishing you had.

Chuck.

[Anonymous]

I just finished hooking up my bus lines to my feeders on my shelf layout using the posi-tap connectors and everything went flawlessly. It took substantially less time than soldering and the connector contacts are bullet proof. All sections are working properly and best of all, these connectors can be used more than once. I purchased these connectors (package of 6) at Walmart and they are about a buck a piece. I initially checked the connection using a spare piece of bus line and a section of 20g feeder to see how they worked. Since they thread tight against the bus line and feeder, they won't be backing off. I then purchased off the internet from the www.posi-lock.com website. Best of all, you can attach more than one pair of feeders to the posi-tap connector, depending on the gauge of feeder used. Thanks Mastiffdog.

Larry

[cmrproducts]

Yep! They work good NOW - But just wait!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[cmrproducts]

Yep! They work great NOW - But just wait!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[olequa]

I went over and got some sample positaps today. They are vey well made. I'll take them home and do some tests on them tonight (I'm a little concerned about the piercing action). But overall they look like just what the doctor ordered. Better than suitcase connectors but somewhat expensive.

george

[Anonymous]

Olequa, yes, they do have a slot for the main bus to slide right into! It's easy and very quick - just lay the bus right in the slot and screw down the mating piece.

Larry, glad you like 'em, you'll zip through that wiring faster than you ever thought, and it will be a clean and professional looking installation - no muss - no fuss!

Bob, all I can say to you is that regrets have no future. You just keep on waiting!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Soo Line fan

QUOTE: Originally posted by olequa


Do you have to thread the 'hot' lead thru the device or does the device have a slot sot that it just slips onto the wire?

I was wondering the same thing. I found this graphic:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm

Jim

Jim, great article you found. This should answer lots of questions for folks who are interested in trying out the Posi-Taps. It might even convince ole Bob H to give 'em a try, Bob?

[cmrproducts]

What ever!

I solder ALL my connections.

So I NEVER will have to try and convince myself of any other type of connection.

If these are so good are you all going to use them on DCC decoder installs. IT sure would be faster then. And then we could all have fun trying to figure out why the decoder keeps on resetting!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[Anonymous]

Now Bob, play nice! I know, you know and we all know that a Posi-Tap or any other mechanical connection component we're referencing in this thread are not appropriate for loco/decoder installations. So sorry, no sale, your example doesn't hold water (or should I say "current") LOL

And Bob, another thing, you aren't listening to what we're all saying here. We have had flawless results with our Posi-Taps and I haven't heard of one failure for our application. You continue to want to solder, and that's fine, but don't keep telling us they are going to fail. What evidence can you share that they will eventually fail?

So far you have provided us with none. Mine work fine and Larry's seem to work fine too. I have read success stories on other model railroad sites as well, but no failures.

I have no objection to soldering and for specific applications it may be the only method that is appropriate.

Back in the 1960's you may recall that Dr. Suess wrote a kid's book called "Green Eggs and Ham". Bob, you kinda of remind me of "Sam". Sam would not eat Green Eggs and Ham. Until he tried them!

[Soo Line fan]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Mastiffdog

QUOTE: Originally posted by Soo Line fan

QUOTE: Originally posted by olequa


Do you have to thread the 'hot' lead thru the device or does the device have a slot sot that it just slips onto the wire?

I was wondering the same thing. I found this graphic:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm

Jim

Jim, great article you found. This should answer lots of questions for folks who are interested in trying out the Posi-Taps. It might even convince ole Bob H to give 'em a try, Bob?

Mastiffdog, thanks for posting the info.

The posi-taps passed some pretty stringent testing by SAE, which does not give its blessing to junk. The beloved scotchlock cannot make that claim. The only objection to these might be cost, but be aware that one connector takes the place of up to 3 - 4 scotchlocks. They are also reusable.

Here is another link: http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/anb/anb100.html

I looked for some today in the parts store but they did not have any, I will try Wal-Mart. I plan on using some for automotive work and will report back.

Jim

[cmrproducts]

What it all boils down to is that any non soldered connection will eventually fail. Did you ever wonder why there all of those unexplained house fires? Because the wire nuts have failed.

I found them coming loose in my old house that was built new in 1976. This was in 1988 as I was redoing some of the outlets and the wire nuts were coming loose. I was really glad that I found them. I checked all of the rest of them in the house after finding that.

I also had the electrical meter connection on the outside of the house fail. And this is a connection that never goes bad. Now I know that these are extreme cases but it is still a mechanical connection not soldered.

And for the short term the mechanical connections will work but in a high humidity setting they will eventually break down.

And the real reason is that no one knows how to solder properly, isn’t it?

BOB H – Clarion, PA

[olequa]

I started wiring up the main tonight using the posi-taps. They're great! I made a lot of progress in a matter of minutes with no hassles. These things look pretty professional. They have a lot of contact surface area. I was worried a little about the piercing action, but on taking apart a sample I found no broken strands.

Thanks for the tip, mdog!

george

[Anonymous]

Yeah Bob, that's it - no one knows how to solder properly! Right, that's the real reason.

As John Stossel on 20-20 ABC News says, "Gimme a break!"

[olequa]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts

What it all boils down to is that any non soldered connection will eventually fail.
BOB H – Clarion, PA

I got to thinking about this. What about the connections on the back of your power pack or DCC box? Are they soldered? Nope, screw terminals. Do they corrode or fail? Nope, they work forever. Then it seems likely to me that the PosiTap connectors will perform similarly, since they are in essence screw terminals.

g

[cmrproducts]

I have to keep on going back and retigntining them everyonce in a while.

The same way as I get inside my 200 amp panel box at the house and garage and make sure the wires are tight!

If you don't then you are living on borrowed time.

When the fire alarm goes off I will be over to help put out the fire!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[olequa]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts

I have to keep on going back and retigntining them everyonce in a while.

The same way as I get inside my 200 amp panel box at the house and garage and make sure the wires are tight!

If you don't then you are living on borrowed time.

When the fire alarm goes off I will be over to help put out the fire!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

I guess a lot of us are living on borrowed time then.

[Anonymous]

I believe it was at Mastiffdog's suggestion that I originally tried the Posi-Tap connectors.
For layout wiring there is nothing better! I used to solder everything and have burn scars to prove it. Then I went to suitcase connectors. I managed to destroy about one in ten installing them--with the proper tools, I might add. Then I switched to Posi-Taps. I am to the point that I can install one in under a minute, including stripping the feeder wire. And there have been no failures to date.

John Timm