RF-16 Sharknose

[scubaterry]

I am looking for an RF-16 NYC (HO). I found one listed on the MB Klein site from ER models? Did google with too many results to go thru. Hoping someone can shed some light on ER models. Good/Bad/OK??? Tks for the help.
Terry[8D]

[Darth Santa Fe]

E-R Models diesels are built by Roco in Austria, so they should be good. I beleive that E-R Models is also out of business. Model Power also sold the Roco Sharknose. Another option is to get an old Mantua or Tyco Sharknose and put it on a Hobbytown FA drive, or some other drive system.

Here's a link to the Hobbytown FA drive kit:
http://bearlocomotive.com/product/K012

[Anonymous]

You have one more option. Precision Craft Models (BLI's sister company) has announced Sharks for delivery later this year, with and without sound, and the B units will be powered and non-powered. NYC is amongst the announced road names.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

E-R Models diesels are built by Roco in Austria,

Should read MOST were built by Roco......E-R's FA-1 was built in Brazil by Fratesch.

[Anonymous]

Here's a few on eBay:

http://search.ebay.com//search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=ER+models+rf-16

[scubaterry]

Tks for the info guys. I'll look around to see if any one else makes the RF-16. The PCM models are quite pricey.
Terry[8D]

[TomDiehl]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Darth Santa Fe

E-R Models diesels are built by Roco in Austria, so they should be good. I beleive that E-R Models is also out of business. Model Power also sold the Roco Sharknose. Another option is to get an old Mantua or Tyco Sharknose and put it on a Hobbytown FA drive, or some other drive system.

Here's a link to the Hobbytown FA drive kit:
http://bearlocomotive.com/product/K012

The Tyco and Mantua shark noses are actually an RF-15 (different nose door and number board arrangment). If you're going that route, look for the old die cast metal bodies, then if you need to repower (I've bought several "not running" of these models on Ebay, which DID run afer a GOOD cleaning) go with the Hobbytown of Boston drive at the above link. I have three set up like that, and they'll pull the paint off the walls.The plastic body one looks pretty good, but you'll DEFINATELY need to replace the drive. if you need better detail on assembly of the Hobbytown drives, let me know.

[jimrice4449]

I have a thing for Sharks and bought a bunch of Rocos. They run great but there are 2 problems. the first is the tendency for the metal tires and plastic wheel centers to seperate under heavy load (I run 40-50 car frt trains) and the other is the truck mounted cplrs between units. We were running a (typically, for me) lomg train and the engines kept derailing at the same spot. After much investigation it seems that the engines were on the downgrade and as the train topped the grade the slck ran in and those truck mounted cplrs did what they always do when backing, they derailed. What was initially baffling was that they were running forward but the slck running in gave the same dynamic as backing

[jimrice4449]

I have a thing for Sharks and bought a bunch of Rocos. They run great but there are 2 problems. the first is the tendency for the metal tires and plastic wheel centers to seperate under heavy load (I run 40-50 car frt trains) and the other is the truck mounted cplrs between units. We were running a (typically, for me) lomg train and the engines kept derailing at the same spot. After much investigation it seems that the engines were on the downgrade and as the train topped the grade the slck ran in and those truck mounted cplrs did what they always do when backing, they derailed. What was initially baffling was that they were running forward but the slck running in gave the same dynamic as backing

[Anonymous]

RF-16's were also done in Brass by Alco Models. Even though they are brass, I picked mine up fairly cheaply.True, they are not the best running things out of the box, but correcting the poor power pickups and adding a can motor and flywheel does wonders for them, I've got two that run like tops! [:D]

[jimrice4449]

I solved the cplr problem by body mounting the cplrs. The wheel problem took a little more doing. I rplaced the trucks w/ Athearn 4 wheel trucks w/ GE sideframes. You have to add a bolster w/ a brass pin in the middle but the Roco frame is at the right hieght so that all that's required is screwing the new bolster to the top of the Roco frame. Of course, if you don't run monster trains the problem might not ever crop up. On the plus side, those Roco can motors are super!

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimrice4449

I have a thing for Sharks and bought a bunch of Rocos. They run great but there are 2 problems. the first is the tendency for the metal tires and plastic wheel centers to seperate under heavy load ......

NWSL has replacements

[Anonymous]

The E R Models version has body-mounted couplers as standard, at least, mine did. I modified the rear coupler mount and fitted a Kadee #5 to bring it closer to the other units it runs with (a Proto 1K C-Liner A/B), still need to do the same at the front although the Kadee #34 that's currently there works perfectly well.

[scubaterry]

I don't want to sound like a lazy modeler[:I] but it sounds like no one makes a decent out of the box "Sharknose". I'm not real experienced with modifications to Loco's. Not sure what I would end up with. I do appreciate all of the input, Thanks
Terry[8D]