How do you cut and apply decals?

[electrolove]

Is it importent that you cut around the decal before transferring it to the loco or car? What tools do you use to cut the decal?

[Anonymous]

i just use regular scissors. I cut it out larger than it is because if you cut it exatly as it is it is small enough that you may damage it during application. Then after soaking in water for the reccommended time you slide it slightly off the paper you cut and hold part of the decal in place and gently slide the paper out from under it. The key is -BE GENTLE!

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dingoix

i just use regular scissors. I cut it out larger than it is because if you cut it exatly as it is it is small enough that you may damage it during application. Then after soaking in water for the reccommended time you slide it slightly off the paper you cut and hold part of the decal in place and gently slide the paper out from under it. The key is -BE GENTLE!

When the decal is on the loco or car, can you see the transparent film around the decal, or is there solutions to this as well? You must protect it with something, right?

[Anonymous]

I didn't protect it but i should sometime. What film around the decal? i used microscale and the decal is only the size of the design, but on the numbers you can just barley see the film in places like: center of the "zero" ect.

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 8500HPGASTURBINE

I did this when applying decals to my 4-12-2 I just painted.

1. Placed the decal over something hard, like a piece of wood. Use a "new" razor blade and cut as close to the decal as possable. You don't have to cut directly on the outside of the letters or design.
2. Next use "Distilled" water and let the decal soak for no more then 30 seconds.
3. Apply MICRO SOL with a small brush were the decal is going.
4. Remove decal and slide it onto the location.
5. With a brush dipped into the water move the decal around till it perfect.
6. Carefully blot the excess water off.
7. (most important) Using another brush apply SOLVASET onto the top of the decal.

Just let it sit, it will shrink into cracks, around rivits, and the backing will be completly gone.

Sounds interesting. What do you mean by 'the backing will be completly gone'? Do you have a closeup of the decal work? I would be very interesting to look at.

What's the difference between MICRO SOL and SOLVASET? I have looked around on the net and it seems to me that they do the same thing, but I'm sure I'm wrong on that. Just wonder why you use both?

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dingoix

I didn't protect it but i should sometime. What film around the decal? i used microscale and the decal is only the size of the design, but on the numbers you can just barley see the film in places like: center of the "zero" ect.

Sorry, I mean the film around the decal if you make your own decals with laser decal paper. It must be hard to cut exactly around the decal if it's small or am I maybe wrong?

[Tracklayer]

Each modeler has their own method and will a lot of times argue that their way is the best and only way...

I personally cut the decals out with scissors or a razor knife as close it as I can, soak them in a clear glass bowl of luke warm water for a few seconds, then remove them before they turn loose of the back paper, lay them in a few drops of water on my desk top in order to keep them moist, then using a damp toothpick, slide them off onto a damp razor blade and then slide them off of the razor blade onto my work piece using the toothpick to push it around. Once the decal dries, I go over it with a coating of Mod Poge to seal it. For larger decals, I wait a day or two for them to dry, then wet my finger tip and press it onto the decal which will usually stick to my finger and peel right off. Then using a fine tip brush, I paint Mod Poge on the back of the decal and re-apply it where I want it and allow it to dry, and wa la...

Tracklayer

[Virginian]

I put the decal down in a puddle of MicroSet, and then as it dries aply the MicroSol. After applying the MicroSol in my experience the decal then liquifies and you cannot move it around any more. MicroSol and Solvaset are very similar. Micro Set is less concentrated allowing you to move the decal around and get it set just right.
On old or real small decals you may want to apply a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal film before wetting. It really holds cracking decals together great.

[simon1966]

Great timing on the thread electrolove, and very helpful input from the lads! As it happened I was planning to do some decalling myself this evening and had just purchased some Microsol and Microset and was not really sure of the best method of application. So this was perfect. Thanks

[gmcrail]

Basically, 8500hpgas.... has it right, except you should use MicroSet instead of MicroSol prior to applying the decal. Microsol is much stronger (almost as strong as SolvaSet), and may prevent you from nudging the decal to its final position. Some further tips:

Spray the model with a clear gloss finish before applying decals. After the decals have been applied and have fully dried, give the model another overcoat of clear gloss. Then when that has dried, clear-coat the model with your choice of final finish - flat, semi-gloss, etc.. This way, the final finish will have a uniformly glossy finish underneath it. It practically guarantees that the glossy decal film will disappear.

Note the absence of any decal film on this model.

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 8500HPGASTURBINE

Basically they are the same thing. MICROSOL you put down before the decal goes on. Then you can also apply it over the decal. I have experiemented using different methods. Using MICROSOL first, then applying the decal and using SOLVASET. The SOLVASET will also remove the decal backing. Did you ever see a poorly allpied decal. You can see a hazy film under it, that's the backing.

THIS PICTURE YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE BACKING



THIS PICTURE IT'S VERY HARD TO SEE EVEN TILTING IT IN THE LIGHT

That was really great pictures. I begin to understand how this works now. Thanks.

The decals used today, are they all so called 'thin film' decals?

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gmcrail

Basically, 8500hpgas.... has it right, except you should use MicroSet instead of MicroSol prior to applying the decal. Microsol is much stronger (almost as strong as SolvaSet), and may prevent you from nudging the decal to its final position. Some further tips:

Spray the model with a clear gloss finish before applying decals. After the decals have been applied and have fully dried, give the model another overcoat of clear gloss. Then when that has dried, clear-coat the model with your choice of final finish - flat, semi-gloss, etc.. This way, the final finish will have a uniformly glossy finish underneath it. It practically guarantees that the glossy decal film will disappear.

Note the absence of any decal film on this model.

So the clear gloss finish before and after applying decals is one of the secrets that makes the decal backing disappear ?

And when you add the final finish, you can get a flat finish even if it started as a glossy finish? The reason I ask is because, if you paint your loco flat it feels a little scary to paint it glossy before applying decals.

[cwclark]

here are some pictures that explain decal application...I don't use micro sol because water with some alcohol in it does the same thing..it basically "wets" the back of the decal so a "silver" won't develop..i do use solvaset..it helps the decal adhere into all the nooks and crannies of the model...go to "trains 1" and "trains 2" for the complete picture demonstration ( i ran out of space in trains 1 so had to start a new album "trains 2" )....click the "next" button to view all the pictures: http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/1321880395055249160nqNfFx

[Anonymous]

I get a bowl of warm water, paper towels etc...

Decal is cut from the sheet with a sharp xacto blade.

Placed into water for about 40 seconds give or take a little.

The model usually has a coat of glosscote already.

The decal is placed into position and Microsoled.

(Thanks about the solvaset, I had forgotten about that good stuff)

Carefully place decal into exact position you only have a few moments for this.

Once the decal starts to wrinkle that is it. It dries over night.

Dullcote is then applied to finish.

Occasionally my film goes fuzzy around the decal, while not wanted, I reason that weathering in the future will take care of it.

I use Champs (OOP but still availible for a time) and Microscale for railroad items, other models get whatever they come from while buildings get A line signs.

[electrolove]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cwclark

here are some pictures that explain decal application...I don't use micro sol because water with some alcohol in it does the same thing..it basically "wets" the back of the decal so a "silver" won't develop..i do use solvaset..it helps the decal adhere into all the nooks and crannies of the model...go to "trains 1" and "trains 2" for the complete picture demonstration ( i ran out of space in trains 1 so had to start a new album "trains 2" )....click the "next" button to view all the pictures: http://community.webshots.com/photo/137793353/1321880395055249160nqNfFx

Thanks for the very interesting picture demonstration. I learned a lot that can be very usefull in the future. Thanks again.